Mohamed (Main) Wall
Stuff Wall
Sweet Mamma Area
Mother's Buttress
In Between Areas
The Other End
Descent Gully
The short wall in the gully hosts the following climbs.
○ Problem 5m 22
Start: At right hand end of short wall. Boulder up rounded flakes. Top rope or solo only.
Paul Riviere (solo) 2002
★ Honey I'm Wet 6m 21 Þ
Start: At low flake. Move from low flake to slightly wet dominant pocket (I've heard people describe their wives this way!). Easily down climbed to clean. 3 BRs.
Richard Jeffrey 1996
★★ A 6m 22 Þ
Start: 2m left of HIW. Up past 3 BRs. Again best to down climb to save a lot of mess.
Gary Hamilton 1999
○ Mr Penetration 6m 15
Start: Below overhanging offwidth corner at left end of wall. A gutsy little climb. Straight up the corner.
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979
Mohamed (Main) Wall
Most of the climbs on the main wall had double BBs, however all have been maliciously damaged. They have since been removed and now await replacement. (Left to Right)
○ NS? 15m 16 Þ
Start: On left side of arete. Stem up the dihedral to start then follow arete to top. Fairly chossy. 4 BRs. DRB
★★ B 15m 20 Þ
Start: 4m right of arete. Straight up. A little runout.
Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn, Gordon Porter 2000
★★ Stingray 15m 15 Þ
Start: At obvious line up middle of left wall. Thin start but getting easier with height. 5 BRs. DRB (not suit to top belay)
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther, Steve Moss 1978
○ C 15m 21
Start: 2m right of S. Up. Paul Rivere's abandoned project.
Unknown 2000
★★ Rub a Dub 15m 21 Þ
Start: 2m left of M. Up passing 4 BRs. A #3.5 friend keeps the rope out of the way to start. Tree belay; 6m back from the belay edge.
Richard Jeffrey 2000
○ Mohamed 15m 15
Start: Below large crack that splits the main wall. Up the crack.
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther, Steve Moss, Scott Hoy 1978
★ Wiggle it Just a Little Bit 15m 21
Start: 2m right of M. 4 BRs and mid sized friends.
Richard Jeffrey 1999
★★★ Sharon Stone 15m 19 Þ
Start: 2m right of WiJaLB at huge pocket. Even looks like a great route! 6 BRs.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996
★★★ Phoenix 15m 19 Þ
Start: As for SS. Nice moves make a classic face climb at the grade. 6 BRs.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996
★★★ HS? 15m 15 Þ
Start: 2m right of SS / P. Around small bulge then straight up easy ground. Well protected with 5 BRs. DRB on face.
To the right of HS a route awaits rebolting after unsightly and mysteriously appearing ring bolts were removed from a line which had just been drilled for hex heads. This action regrettably led to a bit of malicious retaliation with the damage to all belay bolts on this wall.
★★ Opium 15m 20
Start: Below right side of blunt arete at north end of Mohamed Wall. Named for what you'd need if you miss the first clip. 3 BRs, #3.5 friend and wires.
Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere 1996
○ Chips Ahoy 15m 17 Þ
Start: 4m right of O. They needed a lot of cleaning to unearth this one. Up through suspect rock passing 5 BRs.
Kye Riddington 1999
○ Show Bag 13m 18 Þ
Start: 4m right of CA. Up to the left, behind tree. 4 BRs.
Gary Hamilton 1999
○ Gastric 13m 21 Þ
Start: As for SB. Up SB then veer right, the back left to rejoin SB to finish. 4 BRs.
Gary Hamilton 1999
Stuff Wall
Parrallel to Mohamed Wall but some 20m to the north west is a short wall.
○ Vagination 5m 9
Start: Below short corner at left end of Stuff Wall. Up corner.
Scott Hoy (solo) 1978
○ Hard Stuff 7m 19 Þ
Start: On small boulder in centre of wall. Up centre of wall, fingery holds with a few good jugs lower down. 3 BRs to double BB.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith, Jenny McClaren 1996
○ D 7m ?? Þ
Start: At right end of Stuff Wall. Up through chossy cave then veer left. 2 BRs.
Shane, Gary Hamilton 2001
○ E 7m ??
Start: As for D. Straight up. 1 BR, small friends.
Shane, Gary Hamilton 2001
2nd access gully
(about 15m right of Stuff Wall).
Sweet Mamma Area
About 60 - 80m north of Stuff Wall is another short slabby wall with a few gems. At the centre of this area is "Sweet Mamma" the obvious wide overhanging chimney.
○ F 7m 21 Þ
Start: Below right side of blunt arete (20m left of Sweet Mamma). Up right side of blunt arete passing 2 BRs and 1 RB. Take care with opening gate on second runner.
Shane 2002
○ G 5m 12 Þ
Start: 3m right of F. Hard start then eases off. 2 BRs to double BB.
David Forbes 2002
○ H 5m 6 Þ
Start: 6m right of G. Up easy slab. 2 BRs to double BB.
David Forbes 2002
★★★ I 6m 17 Þ
Start: At slabby blunt arete. Nice little climb. 2 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2002
★ J 6m 17 Þ
Start: 2m right of I. Nice thin slab then over bulge. 2 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2002
★ K 6m 15 Þ
Start: 3m right of J. Another a little gem! Thin slab then over bulge. 3 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2002
○ L 5m 16 Þ
Start: 2m right of K. Dirty slab. 2 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2002
○ Sweet Mamma 8m 12
Start: To the right of the obvious, wide, overhanging chimney. Up steep wall and overhanging chimney.
Phil Stallard, Scott Hoy 1978
○ M 10m 16
Start: As for SM. Straight up left side of obvious large bulging block. 3 RBs (last needs long runner) to double BB.
Shane 2002
★★★ N 10m 18 Þ
Start: At obvious tree stump. Centre line up block and over bulges. 3 RBs (third needs long runner) to double BB.
Shane 2002
★★ O 10m 22 ÞX
Start: Below right line on block. up chossy undercut (take care) to first high clip, then up over bulges. Watch the tree behind you. 2 BRs and 1 RB.
Shane 2002
20m further right on the same upper terrace after the large rotten cave is the following very short route.
Staying on this terrace will get you to another scramble access up to the cliff top track. Head right along this to get to the carpark.
About 80m further north of this climb, a few very short bolted routes have been established on some very suspect rock (take care!). Details unknown.
○ P 4m 14
Start: 20m right of O. 2 BRs and 1 RB.
Shane 2002
Mother's Buttress
The following areas and climbs are to the south of the major Descent Gully.
★★★ Inbreeds in the Midst 10m 18 Þ
Start: At the arete at the very base of the gully. Straight up on jugs. Walk down left on ramps, or round out the top and off. 3 BRs to double BBs in back of cave.
Richard Jeffrey 2002
○ Mother's Choice 15m 11
Start: Left of IitM. Wandery. Up leftward ascending slab onto ramps, then up and right to last overhang. Muscle over this to top.
Phil Stallard, David McGrouther, Iam Williamson, Steve Moss and A. Fraser 1978
In Between Areas
To the south of Mother's Buttress the cliff breaks into small narrow nondescript gullies. Most of the obvious cracks located in the rear of these gullies were climbed by the Wondabyne Climbers in the late 1970s. Their lines are used here to locate and describe the more recently established climbs.
○ Roundabout 8m 14
Start: At high corner about 20m left of MC. up in high corner, then break out left onto wall and up slab above.
Phil Stallard, Steve Moss 1978
★★ Knife Edge 8m 17
Start: As for Roundabout. Veer left to arete. #2.5 friend protects start then 3 BRs to triple BB belay. Retrobolted by David Forbes and Gary Hamilton, 2002.
Gordon Porter 2000
○ Q 6m ?? Þ
Start: Right side of Roundabout Gully. Straight up past 3 BRs to double BB belay.
Gary Hamilton, David Forbes 2002
★ Little Roof Riding Hood 8m 18
Start: 3m right of Roundabout. Clip BR to start, right over ledge then upward right through juggy overhang. 1 BR, 2 RBs and #0.5 friend below top.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 2000
★ R 10m 17 Þ
Start: Around arete 4m left of Roundabout. Through chossy start then straight up steepening slab. 4 BRs to triple BBs.
Gary Hamilton, David Forbes 2002
○ Spalding 10m 11 X
Start: At rotten roof left of Roundabout, with black corner above. Delicately up frail holds under roof. Over this then follow bulging corner to top.
Phil Stallard, Steve Moss 1978
○ S 10m 12 ÞX
Start: 3m left of Spalding. Around bulge on frail holds then up slab to left. 4 BRs.
Shane 2000
○ Grandmother Crack 10m 7
Start: 7m left of S, at next corner. Easily up corner.
David McGrouther (solo) 1978
○ The Mysteron 12m 12 X
Start: At overhanging groove, 6m left of GC. Up groove, right up walls to top. Take care of loose blocks suspended by tree.
Scott Hoy, David McGrouther 1978
○ The Catalyst 10m 11
Start: At corner 6m left of TM, just past rotten cave. Up groove then onto wall. Left into corner then follow your nose to the top.
Scott Hoy, Phil Stallard 1978
The Other End
About 100m south of Mother's Buttress is another area hosting several quality routes. The area described starts from the obvious gully of "The Little Grotto" with a smooth black slab on its left side.
○ The Little Grotto 10m 10
Start: At obvious large corner 12m left of TC. Up corner and grovel left at the top.
Scott Hoy, David McGrouther 1978
○ T 10m 21 Þ
Start: 2m right of TLG. Up thin wall. 4 BRs.
Shane 2000
○ U 8m 15 ÞX
Start: 4m right of TLG. Wandery and brittle, take care. Veer right toward arete then up left to belay. 3 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2000
★★ Sabotage 8m 18 Þ
Start: 3m left of TLG. Up nice slab. 3 BRs to double BB. This line was drilled minimally by Grant Severn immediately before the appearance of the final line.
Shane 2000
○ V 10m 15 Þ
Start: Down left below blunt arete. Up around bulge and up final dirty ramp / slab. 3 RBs to double BB.
Unknown 2001
★★ W 12m 15 Þ
Start: 4m left of V. Juggy. Up wall and slab to finish, then traverse right to belay as for V. 3 RBs.
Unknown 2001
★★★ Gordo's Climb 12m 16 Þ
Start: 3m left of W. Straight up wall and slab above, traverse right to belay as for V / W. 3 BRs.
Gordon Porter 2002
★★ X 12m 16
Start: 2m left of GC. Straight up steep slab passing 3 BRs.
Kye Riddington 1999
The next climbs are about 20m south of "The Little Grotto". "Wet 'n' Wild" (a large dirty and often wet crack) is a good landmark.
★★★ Debbie Does Dynos 12m 22
Start: 2m right of WnW (below). Over bulge. Gnarly second clip if you're short. 2 RBs, 1 BR, #1.5 friend below top.
Richard Jeffrey 1999
○ Wet 'n' Wild 12m 14
Start: At obvious large, dirty and often wet crack. Bring a range of friends and some absorbent cloth.
Gordon Porter, Jeff Connelly, Grant Severn, Richard Jeffrey 1999
★★ Chicken Nuggets 12m 18 Þ
Start: 1.5 left of WnW. Veer left then straight up. A little over protected with 7 BRs. This climb seems to have been retro-bolted with the appearance of several very large ring bolts. The original bolts have not been removed.
Kye Riddington 1999
About 10m left of the large ground level block next to Chicken Nuggets is a short slabby wall with the following routes.
The Wondabyne Climbers indicate that several other solo routes and boulder problems were established in this area, however none were described as the climbs are very short and nondescript.
○ Slabs Inc. 10m 10
Start: At left juggy side of the steep slab. Trend up slabs past tree and more slabs to top.
Phil Stallard, I. Dymock, I. Jones 1979
○ After You 10m 11
Start: 10m left of SI. Up steep wall.
Dave McGrouther, Phil Stallard (solo) 1979
○ Then Me 10m 10
Start: 2m left of AY. Straight up wall on good holds.
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979
○ Suburbia Street 12m 10
Start: 6m left of TM at tree growing out of crack. Straight up crack and overhang above.
Phil Stallard (solo) 1979
