07 May 2012

Alfords Point

Climbs described left to right (south to north), facing the cliff.

O Green Frogs and Liver 6m 16 Þ
L of main wall. 2 BRs to double BB.
Shae Constantine 1994

O No Answers 6m 23 Þ
Start below orange streak, L of main wall. Thin and bulgy. Three FHs.
Chris Wallace 1993

★★ Suburbanitis 16m 18
Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on L side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then R and up to lower-off anchor. Recently rebolted with rings. Was 16, but with inflation now 18. If you reach R for the large hold at the 2nd BR its a bit easier.
David Barnes 1993

Brown Hornet 16m 17
Start 1m R of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend R for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S. Was 15 until The Alfords Point Regrading Committee fixed that.
Chris Wallace 1993

★★ Brother Sun 17m 19
A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big L facing flake. Lower-off anchor. Retrobolted recently - was originally led with one bolt.

★★★ Sister Moon 17m 21
2m R of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless. Retrobolted. Lower-off anchor at top.

Fabulous Muppet Show 5m 18
The arete. Four BRs to double BB. Avoid the desperate dyno start by coming in from the R.
Shae Constantine 1994

Fabulous Muppet Show Direct Start 14m 23 Þ
Directly below FMS. Stick clip BR then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS.
Doug Smith 1998
Mad Bolter 7m 20
Short roof climb through middle of small cave above FMS. Poxy expansion bolts need replacing.

Gully
A gully splits the cliff just here. The described climbs in this guide only cover half the actual routes on this section of cliff. There are lines of carrots every few meters all the way along.

O Necropolis Kidney 15m 18 Þ
R of the gully. Short slab to shallow seam. 4 BRs to double BB.
Chris Wallace 1993

O Viva La Papa 15m 19
Tricky slab, then orange stone to overhang. 3 BRs and cams.
David Barnes 1994

Show Us Your Form 15m 21
Roof. BR, large cam and 2 FHs to double BB.
David Barnes 1994

O Give Me Souls 15m 23M1
Stick clip first BR. Head steeply up and L (FH) and up arete. Wall (2 BRs and large cams).
David Barnes 1994

O Sideline Jack 14m 16 Þ
R side of rooves. 3 BRs to double BB.
David Barnes 1993