tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58382359781868069432024-03-21T18:29:48.275-07:00some Sydney crags info for mobile handsetsTo jump to each crag, change Home below to Source, then Done. You'll see Crag list. The crags here: Lost World, Bluebell, Alfords Point, The Cathedral, Bangor, Mt Kuring-Gai, Bonnet Bay, Berowra and Southwest Barrenjoey, Phegans Bay, (Binary Cave, Historic Wells).
< < < note: If you climb somewhere physically, it is likely you will face injury or even untimely death. If you climb, however, do so at your own risk. > > >George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-90493711711728575182012-08-27T06:29:00.004-07:002012-08-27T06:29:41.117-07:00Bonnet Bay is fixedAs of the same link.George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-1769956270293092382012-08-19T20:32:00.002-07:002012-08-19T20:32:17.378-07:00Mt Alexandra<br />
The source I posted for Mt Alexandra was too old to use. The routes i climbed were not on it.<br />
I'll re-post it with fully updated info sometimes.<br />
George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-62098187328288989712012-07-27T22:04:00.002-07:002021-08-07T19:36:21.754-07:00Lost World15 minutes walk, Shady for most of the day<br />
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To enlarge map or topo click them. They will be downloaded, and stored in your Media browser.<br />
Or view Web Version from the end of this page (Mobile version is default when using mobile phone.)<br />
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#end">the end</a></span> & click 'View web version' below 'Home.'<br />
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Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#MainWall">Main Wall</a></span><br />
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Acknowledgement<br />
Updates from Neil Monteith & Mike Law<br />
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Introduction<br />
One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small number of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory.<br />
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Access<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUixoktV2zqVxsg6vhfQmbFr5StFjUOwobvNAgQeu2zudIQmlEahV3RZb0RdVxxOCrs1u0-WIsk4u6UJfZYXtR-1ZilFQ9urIejKoa9jONYsHNct1mhWpB3EIbYHtlmUObsT0vaVcHNlHC/s1600/lost+world+map.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUixoktV2zqVxsg6vhfQmbFr5StFjUOwobvNAgQeu2zudIQmlEahV3RZb0RdVxxOCrs1u0-WIsk4u6UJfZYXtR-1ZilFQ9urIejKoa9jONYsHNct1mhWpB3EIbYHtlmUObsT0vaVcHNlHC/s400/lost+world+map.png" width="400" /></a></div>
To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street.<br />
Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track below the houses.<br />
Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) across a diagonal access lane, go 10m further west and then pick up a trail that runs straight down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff.<br />
Turn right (west) and walk along a trail near the clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform).<br />
Rap in from here.<br />
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Or walk to the base of the crag, scramble down small cliffettes directly below the carpark.<br />
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An easy scramble to the base also exists 100 m right (facing cliff) of the main wall, marked by a large orange gum tree. This provides access to the micro-area.<br />
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Micro Area<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Tull's Ball-tearer<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Could not be located. BRs (likely to be manky).<br />
Mike Law 1980s<br />
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The following two climbs are on the small east facing wall.<br />
Screaming Pretty<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
In middle of east facing wall. BRs (likely to be manky).<br />
Mike Law 1980s<br />
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Grunting and Groaning<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
2m left of SP. BRs (likely to be manky).<br />
Mike Law 1980s<br />
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Main Wall</span><br />
Located about 75m further left of the previous section is this impressive 25m high wall<br />
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A<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>??<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
A striking corner crack with a few manky bolts.<br />
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1<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Dirt Trawler<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.<br />
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2<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Dirt Trawler Left Variant<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to Dirt Trawler. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.<br />
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3<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Nightcrawler (project)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?<br />
Project Neil Monteith<br />
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★★★ 4<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Keep Off the Grass<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
About 15m left of A. Marked PT. Originally started in from left above roof. Start as for Fun and Destruction then after first bolt go right and straight up through roof and up twin seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009<br />
Neil Mahant c1988<br />
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★★★ 5<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fun and Destruction<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
AKA Fun and Danger (erroneous). Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009<br />
Neil Mahant c1988<br />
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★ 6<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Cat Burglar<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>26m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for Eudaimonia to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Nightcrawler.<br />
Neil Mahant c1988<br />
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★★ 7<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Eudaimonia<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m left of the chipped "PT". A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.<br />
Neil Mahant c1988<br />
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8<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Superforce<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)<br />
Neil Mahant c1988<br />
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★ 9<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Soup or Force<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for Superforce. Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.<br />
Mike Law 2009<br />
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Lost World Cave<br />
Walk a further 100m left from the main wall to find this very steep orange cave. Only one bolted project at the moment, and some minor potential for very short steep routes.<br />
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Scoop Project<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Long traverse in from the right across horizontals, then through scoopy roof and up corner.<br />
Project: Neil Montieth<br />
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Return to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#MainWall">the top</a></span> of Main Wall<br />
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<a href="" id="#end" name="#end"></a>George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-1636629257127330642012-07-27T06:59:00.001-07:002012-07-27T19:52:54.822-07:00Bangor is updated today.
The link is same as before http://sydneycrag.blogspot.com.au/2011/04/bangor.htmlGeorge Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-84432380996858178542012-07-20T00:58:00.001-07:002012-07-29T06:40:51.400-07:00Bluebell<span style="background-color: clear;">To enlarge pix click them to download, or go to Web Version from the end of this page (You are looking at mobile version screen automatically if you are using mobile phone.)</span><br />
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<a href="" id="#top" name="#top"></a><br />
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#MainWall">Main Wall</a></span><br />
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#MainWallleft-side">Main Wall left-side</a></span><br />
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#end">the end</a></span><br />
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<b>Access</b><br /><br />
<span style="background-color: clear;">Park at the end of Bluebell Rd, Heathcote. Hop the gate onto the fire trail, then left, and go around back of 7 houses. The crag is located down to the right, and you can either rap in (off chains or trees) at the back of 4th house, or scramble down right from the end of 7th house to the base of the cliff.</span><br />
Routes described right to left, facing the cliff.<br />
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<b>Mini Crag</b><br />
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The following 5 routes are on the little orange wall before the main wall.<br />
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1<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Duncan Direct Start<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>1Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start below short orange wall. Up wall passing RB to lower off.<br />
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23<br />
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2<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Duncan<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>11<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>2Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start left of small corner. Up over small bulge then veer right to loweroff.<br />
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23<br />
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3<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Zara<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>1Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
2m right of A. Up wall past high RB (stick clip) to lower off shared with A.<br />
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23<br />
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★ 4<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Anika<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>2Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
At left end of wall. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower off.<br />
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23<br />
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5<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Nathan<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The girdle traverse route. Start at A and move across and up bast bolts on Z and D to finish on anchors as for D.<br />
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23<br />
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<b>Main Wall</b><br />
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1<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Trust Me I Used Araldite<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
At far right hand end of main wall. Up flake (FH) and through bulge (crux) then up headwall (FH). 1st FH has been placed too low, so I'd recommend preclipping the 2nd with a long sling (otherwise you'll be pulling the crux on a ground fall).<br />
Shae Constantine 1992<br />
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2<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Al's Nightmare<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
3m left of TMIUA. Top rope route, with incomplete bolting.<br />
Alan Smith<br />
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★ 3<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Heathcote Homo<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
2m L of AN. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move to gain anchors.<br />
Jason Lammers 2008<br />
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4<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Screaming Cockatoos<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>4Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
2m left of HH, below obvious flake. Shared start with S, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts (ring, carrot, ring) to shared lower off with HH. Hard for 18<br />
Shano 1992<br />
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★★ 5<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Sparky<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for SC. Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 FHs and optional #2 cam to double U bolt shared lower off with M. Fantastic climbing.<br />
David Barnes 1992<br />
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★ 6<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Meltdown<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Just left of S. Straight up past 3 BRs to double U bolt shared lower off with S. Rebolted.<br />
David Barnes 1992<br />
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★ 7<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>97% McDougall Free<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The direct line just left of M. Stay out of the corner at the start. 4 RB to lower off. Good bargin shopping at 22, could be 21.<br />
Jason Lammers 2006-12-05<br />
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★★ 8<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Welcome to the Body Shop<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Best 21 in Sydney. Start left of M. 3RB + 2FH to chain. Sustained climbing on excellent, steep, juggy rock. Rebolted 2008<br />
David Barnes 1992<br />
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★★ 9<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bitch'n<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
3m L of WttBS from lower ledge. 3FH then RB. More steepness. Delicate over bulge and then get on trucken to the end.<br />
David Barnes 1993<br />
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Back to the top of <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#MainWall">Main Wall</a></span><br />
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#end">the end</a></span><br />
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<b>Main Wall left-side</b><br />
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★★ 10<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>[Linkup] Bundy in a Bottle Shop<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start 1.5m L of B, as for RB. Clip first FH on RB then move up and right to a big side pull (U bolt). Traverse right into B, clipping 2 bolts on B then move up into pumpy steep territory past 2 more U bolts. Finish at lower off on WttBS.<br />
Jason Lammers 2006-05<br />
<br />
★★★ 11<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Ruthless Babe<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1.5m L of B below big rooves. An awesome, sustained route featuring a full body length roof and some of the best rock in Sydney. Was 22 until a big hold snapped off (hmmmmm....maybe the rock isn't that good!). 5RB (2nd RB is next to old FH.) to DRB lower off. Tends to seep after rain.<br />
David Barnes 1992<br />
<br />
★★ 12<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>[Linkup] Ruthless Shop<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancy moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.<br />
<br />
★★ 13<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Gatekeeper<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for RB. Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM. Avoids the crux of DBoM, but is still a classic!<br />
David Barnes 1992<br />
<br />
There is a FH here between 11(RB) and 14(DBoM). Looks the bolt is rusted.
<br />
★★13.5<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>[Linkup] Guerilla Radio<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>26<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Do crux on DBoM, traverse right and do crux on G. Link into BiaBS and finish at anchors. El Pumpo supremo!<br />
<br />
★★ 14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Darling Buds of Mayhem<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
6m L of RB(11), below arete where tree's root is. 1st RB is up high to start, then diagonally R past 4 new U bolts. A true Sydney classic!<br />
Mike Law 1992<br />
<br />
15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Divine Intervention<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for DBoM. Up DBoM for 3 bolts, then head right past 3 BRs to DBB at top.<br />
<br />
★★ 16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Flying Kites<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for DBoM. Up pumpy arete, passing 4 RBs.<br />
G. Morton 1993<br />
<br />
★ 17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Heel and Toe Polka<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Climb as for DBoM to 2nd bolt and then big move and clip U bolt on left. Up to carrot and thru roof, clip another U bolt, then top out. DBB lower off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.<br />
Jason Lammers 2006-02<br />
<br />
18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Lobotomised<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
2m left of DBoM. Ramble up left from the tree of DBoM to ledges (cam) then up over bulges (2 BRs and a FH). Triple BBs.<br />
Chris Wallace 1992<br />
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</div>George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-17519972233973882912012-05-07T05:23:00.001-07:002012-07-20T01:13:07.050-07:00Alfords PointClimbs described left to right (south to north), facing the cliff.<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Green Frogs and Liver<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
L of main wall. 2 BRs to double BB.<br />
Shae Constantine 1994<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>No Answers<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start below orange streak, L of main wall. Thin and bulgy. Three FHs.<br />
Chris Wallace 1993<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Suburbanitis<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on L side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then R and up to lower-off anchor. Recently rebolted with rings. Was 16, but with inflation now 18. If you reach R for the large hold at the 2nd BR its a bit easier.<br />
David Barnes 1993<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Brown Hornet<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start 1m R of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend R for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S. Was 15 until The Alfords Point Regrading Committee fixed that.<br />
Chris Wallace 1993<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Brother Sun<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big L facing flake. Lower-off anchor. Retrobolted recently - was originally led with one bolt.<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Sister Moon<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
2m R of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless. Retrobolted. Lower-off anchor at top.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fabulous Muppet Show<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The arete. Four BRs to double BB. Avoid the desperate dyno start by coming in from the R.<br />
Shae Constantine 1994<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fabulous Muppet Show Direct Start<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Directly below FMS. Stick clip BR then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS.<br />
Doug Smith 1998<br />
Mad Bolter<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Short roof climb through middle of small cave above FMS. Poxy expansion bolts need replacing.<br />
<br />
Gully<br />
A gully splits the cliff just here. The described climbs in this guide only cover half the actual routes on this section of cliff. There are lines of carrots every few meters all the way along.<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Necropolis Kidney<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
R of the gully. Short slab to shallow seam. 4 BRs to double BB.<br />
Chris Wallace 1993<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Viva La Papa<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Tricky slab, then orange stone to overhang. 3 BRs and cams.<br />
David Barnes 1994<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Show Us Your Form<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Roof. BR, large cam and 2 FHs to double BB.<br />
David Barnes 1994<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Give Me Souls<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23M1<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Stick clip first BR. Head steeply up and L (FH) and up arete. Wall (2 BRs and large cams).<br />
David Barnes 1994<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Sideline Jack<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
R side of rooves. 3 BRs to double BB.<br />
David Barnes 1993<br />George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-49390135337064910982012-02-13T05:11:00.000-08:002012-02-13T05:11:17.103-08:00Historic WellsHistoric Wells<br />
Acknowledgement<br />
Glenn Short, John Smoothy and Mitch Warren.<br />
<br />
Access<br />
There are 2 approaches:<br />
1. Walk for 5 mins past The Way of All Flesh (28) at Barden's crag, way past Mind Over Matter (marked) until you reach the grey and black slab with rings on it next to a slightly overhanging wall with routes on the right of the obvious easy diagonal crack (Treebeard Wall).<br />
2. Park at Barden's Lookout carpark. Take the obvious foottrack left looking out from the carpark area, back towards Mt. Vic. Walk for a few minutes to some bends in the track and an obvious metre wide track running off to the right, towards the cliff. Follow it to the top of a short gully with a fixed rope, ladder, rungs and more fixed rope. Down to bottom and turn left. Either way, you will now be at the base of the first easy black slabs of the Historic Wells area. The roped gully is shorter if only visiting this area, but it is not far from Barden's and Damien's Staircase is a cruisy way down.<br />
<br />
Tree Beard Area<br />
The following climbs start just past Rod Young's original descent gully, which has been re-equipped with ropes and paraphenalia. (head right, facing the cliff) If coming from Barden's just follow the track to the black slab with the large chains on top, which is way past the rather obvious Mind over Matter.<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Cat that Fought Back<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Left-most route on wall with chossy overhang above. Very weird clip in centre of route. Chain.<br />
Mitch Warren 2011<br />
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★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Dirty Beasts<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
First route on the black rock. Chain.<br />
Sam Puchala 2011<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Boatbuilding for Clancy<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Just left of the diagonal easy crack. Ridiculously hard move in centre. Mitch reckons it's 15. DRBB<br />
Roslin Forrest 2011<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Back to Back<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The juggy diagonal crack separating the two short walls. Nice climbing, with great gear. Step left at top around bulge. Lower-offs shared with BfC.<br />
Rod Young, Sue Morton 1985<br />
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★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Statistical Scare Tactics<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m right BtB. Nice rock but difficult to stay out of the crack. Take care through the bulge to the anchors. DRBB<br />
Steve Hawkshaw 2004<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Evil Deeds with Good Intentions<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
2m right. Thin and sharp.<br />
Jacindie Jackson, Mitch Warren 2011<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Ed's 24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Marked by large 24.<br />
Ed Rutherford 2009<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Starseed<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Sam Puchala<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Tree Beard<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m R. In front of tree. Originally graded 23, but printed as 17 by mistake, has now settled at 21! Much more civilised, and popular, with the rebolting. Up. DRBB<br />
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1984<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Ed's 27<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>27/25<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Marked. Crimpy and steep. Avoiding the pain by climbing around the hard bit yields a worthwhile 25. DRBB<br />
? 2009<br />
<br />
Jack's Wall<br />
Around the corner there is a wall with an undercut arete on the left. The rock should clean up nicely. Jack Taylor, budding local climber put up a few routes here, climbing quite a few grades above his age. Well worthwhile.<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Awesome Daddy<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Climb at undercut orange rock. Upwards!<br />
Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor 2011<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Thanks Mum<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
2m R AD. More upwardness.<br />
Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor 2011<br />
<br />
Casper Area<br />
Further along, again, there is a large hanging roof bumping into a smooth, orange wall with nice rock.<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>All the Madmen<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>26<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Starts up the short arete meeting the roof, then straight up past rings on left, if you can clip them. Through huge dynos and up wall??? Has repelled some serious contenders. Looks scary. Take Care. DRBB<br />
Rod Young 1998<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Casper<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Marked. Start up corner crack, then through steepness to wall, meander up wall. Great rock but necky, even with gear placed between the rings. Take Care. DRBB<br />
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Shabang<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
3m right Casper. Excellent, well protected climbing. The name is Crunch's geek-speak for "Shebang" - linux command. Very post-modern. Up gingerly to pockets, then technical, pumpy climbing through bulge to wall above. Up ramp on right to DRBB.<br />
John (Crunch) Smoothy, Glenn Short, Henryk Topolnicki 2011<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Quicksilver<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>30m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Marked. Poorly rebolted and the crux holds have broken off. Up wall, meeting arete near top. Looks like death. Take care.<br />
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983<br />
<br />
The Alcove<br />
Around the next corner there is an undercut grey wall with two routes (one on FHs, one on rings) and an, as yet, unclimbed layback ferny crack running up the right hand side. It looks as chossy as it feels.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Scooter Fun<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
15m R Q. Thin. Start on right hand side, at FHs, traverse left, crossing the ringbolted line of CCatMG. Then up, right of the arete with fingery, strenuous climbing up the wall above. A tad chossy in parts but worthwhile. Lower off.<br />
John Smoothy, Glenn Short, Giles Bradbury 2011<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Chocolate Crackle and the Mischievous Gnomes<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
2m left of SF, at the line of rings. Straight up through breaks to top of wall. Sam perservered with this one, despite several setbacks. So, it's worth hauling yourself up to see the fruit of his creative labours. DRBB<br />
Sam Puchala 2011<br />
<br />
Odie Odour Area<br />
Onto the wall opposite, grey on one side - orange on the other. A crack, Odie Odour (16), runs up the middle.<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>A4<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
6m L(?) CCtMG. The scrubby corner! Take some slings for the bushes? George Owen would be proud.<br />
Mitch Warren 2011<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Trick of the Light<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
3m R bushy corner, in middle of grey slab. Up tenderly, without disturbing Mitch's feats of engineering and up to the cave with the permanent dosser. Lower-off.<br />
Jacindie Jackson, Mitch Warren 2011<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Ed's Weirdness<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>26m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
3m right TotL. Up blocky slabbiness, over OO to DRBB. Rap or up easy slab (6) to top. DRRB.<br />
Ed Rutherford 2009<br />
<br />
(The Ledges)<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Odie Odour<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>30m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Marked. Little orange corner and crack in middle of wall. FH at belay. Up corner, arete and crack to top. Can rap off the DRBB on EW.<br />
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Funkytown<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Starts 4m R OO at DRBB on ledge above track. Obvious crack with block protroding in middle of orange wall. Haul up weakness to bulge, over to chains. Quite a bit of climbing for a short route. Good fun. Chain loweroffs.<br />
Glenn Short, John Smoothy 2011<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bless its Pointed Little Head<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
15m R further along ledge of FT at fused corner, with long horizontal break running off left up higher. Straight up fused corner, then rightwards through the steepness. Looks good but also looks harder than 21!<br />
Mitch Warren 2011<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Movin' on Up<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
12m R BiPLH along ledge, at DRBB. Quite a bit of climbing. Up through steepness in middle of wall, trending right towards notch at roof. Step around right onto wall at roof and up wall above, following weakness to DRBB. Lower off or rap.<br />
Glenn Short, John-boy Smoothy 2011<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Project - Pam<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Please stay off. 8m right of MoU, further along ledge. DRBB. Obvious bolted thin crack.<br />
Pam Mort<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Offwidth Joy<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
3m R Pam's Project at the obvious corner crack just before the end of the ledge. Needs natural gear. Up into corner, follow crack to ethics-free zone. (off-width with 2 FHs!) Up trench, step out right then back under roof, step left and up to DBB lower-offs. Pretty good. Eats up gear, take large to small cams.<br />
Glenn Short, John (Crunch) Smoothy 2011<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Alive ‘n’ Kicking<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
6m right of OJ, at end of ledge. Has been rebolted and no longer requires the rap-in or hanging belay. Up crack to line of rings out right, up middle of undercut orange wall. The top of this route is the lookout at the Historic Wells carpark. DRRB.<br />
Mike Stacey, Lorna McManus 1989<br />
<br />
The Rest<br />
The following routes are spread out further towards Zap Crag. They haven't seen a lot of activity. These descriptions are taken from the originals, in the guides by Andrew Penney and Mike Stacey. It's a nice walk, if you are keen.<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Monkey Grip<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>30m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
30m R AnK. Up wall and roof crack. Bolt above overhang then roof crack to wall, up.<br />
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1985<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Oliphant Wall<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Black wall just past MG. Steep wall climbing. Watch out for the old carrots.<br />
Ant Prehn, Rod Young 1985<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Carabine<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
"About 600m" right of OO"!!! Marked. Flake / corner / overhang! Follow crack. Take care.<br />
Ant Prehn, Rod Young 1983<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Driver's Seat<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
"101m (exactly, eh, Rod?) R Carabine. Crack in wall, starts as an overhung peapod about 10m off ground." Up peapod crack to exit (crux) to easier crack above. Rap off.<br />
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983<br />
<br />
O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pandora<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>40m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Way off in the wilderness, below the electricity towers (Pylon Pt) Follow your nose to the top? Take care.<br />
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1985<br />
<div><br />
</div>George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-46402627218201207342012-02-11T02:27:00.000-08:002012-02-11T02:42:03.464-08:00Binary Cave<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_ldkvg14SwQ/TzUFJwfXISI/AAAAAAAAHLI/dge9Y2AJDLg/s640/Binary%2520Cave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_ldkvg14SwQ/TzUFJwfXISI/AAAAAAAAHLI/dge9Y2AJDLg/s400/Binary%2520Cave.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<br />
19 Constipation Chimney Variant Start - verified 19m 12 Rap-anchor<br />
One of the easiest dry pitches in the Blueys!! A much nicer way to start CC, and a worthwhile single pitch in it's own right if you rap off the chain at first ledge. Bring hand to fist cams and some wires. Marked CCVS. Left facing orange corner with great gear. Belay on shale ledge at rap chain.<br />
<br />
20 Birthday Bolts 20m 19 9 bolts Lower-off<br />
Birthday gifts from Vanessa and Ryan :-) As per 33Y for 3 bolts and then veer right and up the engaging orange slab.<br />
FA: Jason Lammers - 2012-01-28<br />
<br />
21 Thirty Three Years - verified 19m 21 7bolts Lower-off<br />
Popular and technical climbing. Start at CCVS corner then trend left up the orange wall past a few overlaps. <br />
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2010-00-00<br />
<br />
22 Flash Flood - verified 18m 20 8 bolts Lower-off<br />
Line of rings up dark orange wall 3m left of Thirty Three Years. Stick clip first bolt and campus the undercut start. Nice finish up steep prow.<br />
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2011-01-16<br />
<br />
23 Thai Virus - verified 25m 22 10 bolts Lower-off<br />
Flash Flood for two bolts then left and up orange wall. One tough move halfway up.<br />
FA: Neil Monteith - 2012-01-22<br />
<br />
24 La Niña 25m 22 10 bolts Lower-off<br />
Start up FF, and then move left to the furthest line of RB's, then climb the super headwall.<br />
FA: Jason Lammers - 2012-02-05<br />
<br />
25 Torrential - verified 25m 20 Rap-anchor<br />
Unlikely well protected trad climbing. Weave up blocky steep stuff to under big roof. Swing right across break and up seam crack to shale ledge. Rap off anchors above TTY.<br />
Starts 15m left of Thirty Three Years at blocky weakness through big roofs.<br />
FFA: Rich Sonnerdale & Neil Monteith - 2010-00-00<br />
<br />
26 Middle Finger - verified 25m 21 Rap-anchor<br />
Climb Torrential for 14m to under big roof. Place #5 cam in slot then traverse left under roof and up technical small corner on great rock. Double bolt belay.<br />
FFA: Neil Monteith & Rich Sonnerdale - 2010-00-00<br />
<br />
27 Thumbs Up 92m 24 M4 Walk-off<br />
First pitch is an exciting old school crackline through some major roofs. Full rack including micro cams and several long slings.<br />
Start at crackline through steep wall about 30m left of Thirty Three Years.<br />
FA: John Ewbank 1967 - 1967-00-00 FFA: Neil Monteith & Rich Sonnerdale (P1 only) - 2010-00-00<br />
P1 (25m, 24) The double roof pitch. First roof is bouldery, the second is reachy and pumpy. Finish up fantastic easy corner.<br />
P2 (27m, - M4) Very thin seam crack splitting roof above. Probably requires pitons. Might go free?<br />
P3 (40m, 15) Easy trench crack to top.<br />
<br />
○ Ben Jenga Project - verified 20m - Lower-off<br />
Starts just left of TU. Flake to big roof heuco, over this and up nice headwall. Maybe 25ish?<br />
<br />
28 Binary Project (Neil) - verified 20m - Lower-off<br />
Lone ring bolted route in between the old school aid lines. Steep start trendIng right then straight up the gorgeous orange wall. Should be 25ish.<br />
<br />
29 Survival Day - verified 20m 24 9 bolts Lower-off<br />
Start just right of Thumbs Down on sandy shelf. Right trending wall to big horizontal break. Swing across this then lean back and reach the big jug over the lip. Up featured wall above. Might be grade 23.<br />
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2012-01-28<br />
<br />
30 Thumbs Down 87m 13 M4 Walk-off<br />
Another steep aid route through a big ceiling. This one looks harder to free than Thumbs Down. Starts 17m left of Thumbs Up.<br />
FA: John Ewbank FFA: 1967-00-00<br />
P1 (34m, 13 M4) Crack and wall to small ledge. Up to roof with old fixed museum pieces and aid across to headwall. Free up to ledge.<br />
P2 (10m, -) Corner to ledge<br />
P3 (13m, 13 M4) Aid crux. Corner, roof then free to ledge.<br />
P4 (30m, -) Black wall.<br />
<br />
31 Please Dry - verified 12m 17 5 bolts Lower-off<br />
Short slabby orange wall 5m left of TD. Wall to fun flake, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top.<br />
FFA: Neil Monteith, Dave Bateman & Ryan Whelan - 2012-00-00<br />
<br />
○ PROJECT - Bundy - Road Works 12m - 6 bolts Lower-off<br />
The cute little slab just right of free standing pillar.<br />
FA: Project - Bundy<br />
<br />
32 Thunderstruck - verified 42m 24 16 bolts Lower-off<br />
2 pitches, very easy first pitch, and a steep pitch up the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres right of Hells Bells at black wall with FHs. <br />
FFA: Chris Coghill (lead both), Will Monks - 2011-00-00<br />
P1 (20m, 17, 6 bolts) Easy, peasy. You can lower off the big staple at the top of the wall, or much better, climb up to the ledge and do the second pitch. A rap anchor is 5m to the L, looking in, at the top of P2 of Hells Bells.<br />
P2 (22m, 24, 10 bolts) Steep with a punchy low crux, then nice moves to the top.<br />
<br />
33 Hells Bells 61m 16 Walk-off<br />
Start at blocky black corner 25m left of TD. There is a rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2, so you can do it as a single pitch and rap. This avoids the vegetated upper pitches.<br />
FFA: J. Davis - 1964-00-00<br />
P1 (10m, 14) Up wall right of corner aiming for a small ledge below orange roof. Single old rusty carrot. Don't stop here - link this with pitch 2.<br />
P2 (8m, 15) Traverse left to arete plugging good gear in the crack under the roof. Belay at rap chain (stainless).<br />
P3 (13m, -) Diagonally left to crack and old bolt belay. Mucho vegeteriano.<br />
P4 (10m, 16) Crack to bolt belay.<br />
P5 (20m, -) Diagonally left for 8m then diagonally right to ledge and tree. Scramble off to the right.George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-15589682559101522232011-10-07T02:47:00.000-07:002011-10-07T02:47:18.045-07:00EarlwoodA popular and pleasant little south facing crag with the look and feel of English Gritstone. Excellent rock quality, easy top-rope setups and well bolted. Located above Wolli Creek in Earlwood. In addition to the following climbs, there is also an excellent 30m bouldering traverse located at the far left end of the crag. Most routes have been rebolted in the last five years. (most require bolt plates).<br />
<br />
Access<br />
To get there, park at the corner of Hartill-Law Ave and Fauna St in Earlwood and follow the obvious walking track into Girrahween Park. After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the track passes directly underneath the crag. Alternative access (possibly shorter) is from end the east end of this same track (marked TVT?) downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood. Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff.<br />
<br />
Left Side Slab<br />
About 20m above the walking track is this slabby buttress with the excellent bouldering traverse on the left side. The routes on the right slab are a bit of a mystery - bolted by unknowns in the mid 00s. These slab routes are all graded in the mid to high teens.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sthiYUCfw8o/To7GHLe6lTI/AAAAAAAAGJs/N5uqeZd3wKM/s1600/left+side+slabs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sthiYUCfw8o/To7GHLe6lTI/AAAAAAAAGJs/N5uqeZd3wKM/s320/left+side+slabs.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Mystery Slab A<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Boulder the start then out left through the contrived steepness.<br />
<br />
Mystery Slab A Direct Finish<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Directly through the juggy headwall.<br />
<br />
Mystery Slab B<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Ringbolts up the middle of the slab. Juggy finish.<br />
<br />
Mystery Slab C<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Right most slab route on ringbolts.<br />
<br />
Main Wall<br />
The grid-bolted wall right next to the walking track.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iiDvVzfif-g/To7GHsm81JI/AAAAAAAAGJ0/8W6wkwxPJ5U/s1600/main+wall+middle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iiDvVzfif-g/To7GHsm81JI/AAAAAAAAGJ0/8W6wkwxPJ5U/s320/main+wall+middle.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
A<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Hidden by thick fern growth 5m up left of the main wall. Out the short roof flake and up on ringbolts. Probably currently unclimbable due to vegetation. Grade in the mid 20s?<br />
Peter Martin 1999<br />
<br />
Mystery Climb<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Brushed wall on slopers just left of chimney corner. Hard finish. Ringbolts.<br />
Unknown 2009<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Transfixed<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Starts on left side of large roof. Boulder out roof then hand traverse right along lip past ringbolts then up subtle arete on FHs. You do the first half as a classic V4 boulder problem with a good spotter.<br />
Saxon Johns 1992<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Science of Imaginary Solutions<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21/27<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Left most line on main face (about 4m right of T). 3 FHs. Free start was once 27 but appears to be more like V12+ now. Just stickclip and batman to first FH for the grade 21 version.<br />
Peter Martin 1992<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Kaboodle<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Up Kaos, left and up and left and up to chains<br />
Mikl Law 1980s<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Kaos<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Excellent middle line on main face. Reachy start, weird horizontal dyno right and up flake to top. 3 RBs. Strongman Zac V once had to be rescued by passing tourists when he attempted to solo this!<br />
Mikl Law 1970s solo (after many topropes)<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fascination Street<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for Kaos. Right most line on main face with one very thin move. Sandbag?<br />
A. Walters 1992<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y0TLo4L2yjw/To7GGXPCIgI/AAAAAAAAGJo/u5m-zItkV3M/s1600/main+wall+right+side+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y0TLo4L2yjw/To7GGXPCIgI/AAAAAAAAGJo/u5m-zItkV3M/s320/main+wall+right+side+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Cornered<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Excellent jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Trad from hand to offwidth.<br />
<br />
B<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Straight up the bolted slab right of Cornered.<br />
Peter Martin 1999<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Hopit<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
One of the best lines here. Square cut arete with thin technical climbing. FHs.<br />
Mikl Law solo 1970's (after many top-ropes)<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>C<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>4Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Contrived squeeze job. Head up H, then veer right to finish up CA.<br />
Peter Martin 1999<br />
<br />
Claw Away<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs of C appeared.<br />
Mike Law (solo) 1987<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Cornered Again<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
A good trad route with excellent gear. Finger crack to start then stem up corner and out left on jugs to finish. U-bolt lower-off.<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Whistling in the Dark<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Face just right of corner with ringbolts. Stepping into corner is cheating! Steep finish with tricky mantle.<br />
Peter Martin 1992<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Meat Puppets<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!<br />
Peter Martin 1992<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Warm It Up<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Another good easy route. Layback up subtle right facing corner flake then step right onto slab. Trad or clip a bolt on the route to the left.<br />
Mikl Law solo 1970s<br />
<br />
Payback<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Thin face squeezed between flake and arete, clipping bolts on The Count.<br />
Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson 2008<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Count<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Classy gritstone arete which is strenuous and technical. Finish up runout slab above. Ringbolts.<br />
Mikl Law solo 1970s<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mystery Face<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Face right of arete on rinbolts with a tricky mantle. A popular little solo that was recently retrobolted by persons unknown.<br />
Unknown 2009<br />
<br />
Slabmaster Wall<br />
20m right of the main wall is this wildly overhanging arete.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lZz1guweSp4/To7GGLlR1_I/AAAAAAAAGJk/Mg81s1XwPtg/s1600/slabmaster+wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lZz1guweSp4/To7GGLlR1_I/AAAAAAAAGJk/Mg81s1XwPtg/s320/slabmaster+wall.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
D<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock. The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Slabmaster<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped.<br />
Mikl Law solo 1970s<br />
<br />
Wuss in Boots Slab<br />
20m right of SM is a prominent fin located up above the track.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KoJHPea4Pro/To7GHnaXz4I/AAAAAAAAGJw/ED7YQwMLmCM/s1600/earlwood+right+wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KoJHPea4Pro/To7GHnaXz4I/AAAAAAAAGJw/ED7YQwMLmCM/s320/earlwood+right+wall.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Wuss in Boots<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start at the left arete of the fin. Up the face just right of the arete to the top. No pro.<br />
Will Monks (solo in hiking boots) 1997<br />
<br />
E<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
3m right of WiB. Hard start then up the slab, passing two gold coloured BRs to a double BB belay. Take wires for the bolts, since they're too big for normal bolt brackets.<br />
<div><br />
</div><div>Photo topos by Neil Montieth</div>George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-16414667637419053052011-08-27T04:32:00.000-07:002012-07-27T20:18:30.230-07:00PHEGANS BAY – CENTRAL COAST<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3nks4S3kYg0/Tli4AQ3v0rI/AAAAAAAAF9Y/MSoKpOhCo7c/s1600/map-PHEGANS+BAY.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3nks4S3kYg0/Tli4AQ3v0rI/AAAAAAAAF9Y/MSoKpOhCo7c/s320/map-PHEGANS+BAY.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Mohamed (Main) Wall<br />
Stuff Wall<br />
Sweet Mamma Area<br />
Mother's Buttress<br />
In Between Areas<br />
The Other End<br />
<br />
Descent Gully<br />
The short wall in the gully hosts the following climbs.<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Problem<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At right hand end of short wall. Boulder up rounded flakes. Top rope or solo only.<br />
Paul Riviere (solo) 2002<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Honey I'm Wet<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At low flake. Move from low flake to slightly wet dominant pocket (I've heard people describe their wives this way!). Easily down climbed to clean. 3 BRs.<br />
Richard Jeffrey 1996<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>A<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m left of HIW. Up past 3 BRs. Again best to down climb to save a lot of mess.<br />
Gary Hamilton 1999<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mr Penetration<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Below overhanging offwidth corner at left end of wall. A gutsy little climb. Straight up the corner.<br />
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979<br />
<br />
Mohamed (Main) Wall<br />
Most of the climbs on the main wall had double BBs, however all have been maliciously damaged. They have since been removed and now await replacement. (Left to Right)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c5Tqza_rsv8/TmS9d6cwcFI/AAAAAAAAGBs/byNGHTTOwLc/s1600/Mohamed+%2528Main%2529+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c5Tqza_rsv8/TmS9d6cwcFI/AAAAAAAAGBs/byNGHTTOwLc/s320/Mohamed+%2528Main%2529+Wall.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>NS?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: On left side of arete. Stem up the dihedral to start then follow arete to top. Fairly chossy. 4 BRs. DRB<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>B<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 4m right of arete. Straight up. A little runout.<br />
Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn, Gordon Porter 2000<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Stingray<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At obvious line up middle of left wall. Thin start but getting easier with height. 5 BRs. DRB (not suit to top belay)<br />
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther, Steve Moss 1978<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>C<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m right of S. Up. Paul Rivere's abandoned project.<br />
Unknown 2000<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Rub a Dub<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m left of M. Up passing 4 BRs. A #3.5 friend keeps the rope out of the way to start. Tree belay; 6m back from the belay edge.<br />
Richard Jeffrey 2000<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mohamed<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Below large crack that splits the main wall. Up the crack.<br />
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther, Steve Moss, Scott Hoy 1978<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Wiggle it Just a Little Bit<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m right of M. 4 BRs and mid sized friends.<br />
Richard Jeffrey 1999<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Sharon Stone<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m right of WiJaLB at huge pocket. Even looks like a great route! 6 BRs.<br />
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Phoenix<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: As for SS. Nice moves make a classic face climb at the grade. 6 BRs.<br />
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>HS?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m right of SS / P. Around small bulge then straight up easy ground. Well protected with 5 BRs. DRB on face.<br />
<br />
To the right of HS a route awaits rebolting after unsightly and mysteriously appearing ring bolts were removed from a line which had just been drilled for hex heads. This action regrettably led to a bit of malicious retaliation with the damage to all belay bolts on this wall.<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Opium<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Below right side of blunt arete at north end of Mohamed Wall. Named for what you'd need if you miss the first clip. 3 BRs, #3.5 friend and wires.<br />
Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere 1996<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Chips Ahoy<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 4m right of O. They needed a lot of cleaning to unearth this one. Up through suspect rock passing 5 BRs.<br />
Kye Riddington 1999<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Show Bag<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 4m right of CA. Up to the left, behind tree. 4 BRs.<br />
Gary Hamilton 1999<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Gastric<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: As for SB. Up SB then veer right, the back left to rejoin SB to finish. 4 BRs.<br />
Gary Hamilton 1999<br />
<br />
Stuff Wall<br />
Parrallel to Mohamed Wall but some 20m to the north west is a short wall.<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Vagination<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Below short corner at left end of Stuff Wall. Up corner.<br />
Scott Hoy (solo) 1978<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Hard Stuff<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: On small boulder in centre of wall. Up centre of wall, fingery holds with a few good jugs lower down. 3 BRs to double BB.<br />
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith, Jenny McClaren 1996<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>D<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>??<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At right end of Stuff Wall. Up through chossy cave then veer left. 2 BRs.<br />
Shane, Gary Hamilton 2001<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>E<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>??<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: As for D. Straight up. 1 BR, small friends.<br />
Shane, Gary Hamilton 2001<br />
<br />
2nd access gully<br />
(about 15m right of Stuff Wall).<br />
<br />
Sweet Mamma Area<br />
About 60 - 80m north of Stuff Wall is another short slabby wall with a few gems. At the centre of this area is "Sweet Mamma" the obvious wide overhanging chimney.<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>F<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Below right side of blunt arete (20m left of Sweet Mamma). Up right side of blunt arete passing 2 BRs and 1 RB. Take care with opening gate on second runner.<br />
Shane 2002<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>G<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 3m right of F. Hard start then eases off. 2 BRs to double BB.<br />
David Forbes 2002<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>H<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 6m right of G. Up easy slab. 2 BRs to double BB.<br />
David Forbes 2002<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>I<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At slabby blunt arete. Nice little climb. 2 BRs to double BB.<br />
Shane 2002<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>J<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m right of I. Nice thin slab then over bulge. 2 BRs to double BB.<br />
Shane 2002<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>K<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 3m right of J. Another a little gem! Thin slab then over bulge. 3 BRs to double BB.<br />
Shane 2002<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>L<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m right of K. Dirty slab. 2 BRs to double BB.<br />
Shane 2002<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Sweet Mamma<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: To the right of the obvious, wide, overhanging chimney. Up steep wall and overhanging chimney.<br />
Phil Stallard, Scott Hoy 1978<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>M<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: As for SM. Straight up left side of obvious large bulging block. 3 RBs (last needs long runner) to double BB.<br />
Shane 2002<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>N<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At obvious tree stump. Centre line up block and over bulges. 3 RBs (third needs long runner) to double BB.<br />
Shane 2002<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>O<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>ÞX<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Below right line on block. up chossy undercut (take care) to first high clip, then up over bulges. Watch the tree behind you. 2 BRs and 1 RB.<br />
Shane 2002<br />
<br />
20m further right on the same upper terrace after the large rotten cave is the following very short route.<br />
Staying on this terrace will get you to another scramble access up to the cliff top track. Head right along this to get to the carpark.<br />
About 80m further north of this climb, a few very short bolted routes have been established on some very suspect rock (take care!). Details unknown.<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>P<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>4m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 20m right of O. 2 BRs and 1 RB.<br />
Shane 2002<br />
<br />
Mother's Buttress<br />
The following areas and climbs are to the south of the major Descent Gully.<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Inbreeds in the Midst<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At the arete at the very base of the gully. Straight up on jugs. Walk down left on ramps, or round out the top and off. 3 BRs to double BBs in back of cave.<br />
Richard Jeffrey 2002<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mother's Choice<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>11<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Left of IitM. Wandery. Up leftward ascending slab onto ramps, then up and right to last overhang. Muscle over this to top.<br />
Phil Stallard, David McGrouther, Iam Williamson, Steve Moss and A. Fraser 1978<br />
<br />
In Between Areas<br />
To the south of Mother's Buttress the cliff breaks into small narrow nondescript gullies. Most of the obvious cracks located in the rear of these gullies were climbed by the Wondabyne Climbers in the late 1970s. Their lines are used here to locate and describe the more recently established climbs.<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Roundabout<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At high corner about 20m left of MC. up in high corner, then break out left onto wall and up slab above.<br />
Phil Stallard, Steve Moss 1978<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Knife Edge<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: As for Roundabout. Veer left to arete. #2.5 friend protects start then 3 BRs to triple BB belay. Retrobolted by David Forbes and Gary Hamilton, 2002.<br />
Gordon Porter 2000<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Q<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>??<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Right side of Roundabout Gully. Straight up past 3 BRs to double BB belay.<br />
Gary Hamilton, David Forbes 2002<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Little Roof Riding Hood<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 3m right of Roundabout. Clip BR to start, right over ledge then upward right through juggy overhang. 1 BR, 2 RBs and #0.5 friend below top.<br />
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 2000<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>R<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Around arete 4m left of Roundabout. Through chossy start then straight up steepening slab. 4 BRs to triple BBs.<br />
Gary Hamilton, David Forbes 2002<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Spalding<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>11<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At rotten roof left of Roundabout, with black corner above. Delicately up frail holds under roof. Over this then follow bulging corner to top.<br />
Phil Stallard, Steve Moss 1978<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>S<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>ÞX<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 3m left of Spalding. Around bulge on frail holds then up slab to left. 4 BRs.<br />
Shane 2000<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Grandmother Crack<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 7m left of S, at next corner. Easily up corner.<br />
David McGrouther (solo) 1978<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Mysteron<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At overhanging groove, 6m left of GC. Up groove, right up walls to top. Take care of loose blocks suspended by tree.<br />
Scott Hoy, David McGrouther 1978<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Catalyst<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>11<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At corner 6m left of TM, just past rotten cave. Up groove then onto wall. Left into corner then follow your nose to the top.<br />
Scott Hoy, Phil Stallard 1978<br />
<br />
The Other End<br />
About 100m south of Mother's Buttress is another area hosting several quality routes. The area described starts from the obvious gully of "The Little Grotto" with a smooth black slab on its left side.<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Little Grotto<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At obvious large corner 12m left of TC. Up corner and grovel left at the top.<br />
Scott Hoy, David McGrouther 1978<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>T<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m right of TLG. Up thin wall. 4 BRs.<br />
Shane 2000<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>U<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>ÞX<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 4m right of TLG. Wandery and brittle, take care. Veer right toward arete then up left to belay. 3 BRs to double BB.<br />
Shane 2000<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Sabotage<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 3m left of TLG. Up nice slab. 3 BRs to double BB. This line was drilled minimally by Grant Severn immediately before the appearance of the final line.<br />
Shane 2000<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>V<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: Down left below blunt arete. Up around bulge and up final dirty ramp / slab. 3 RBs to double BB.<br />
Unknown 2001<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>W<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 4m left of V. Juggy. Up wall and slab to finish, then traverse right to belay as for V. 3 RBs.<br />
Unknown 2001<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Gordo's Climb<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 3m left of W. Straight up wall and slab above, traverse right to belay as for V / W. 3 BRs.<br />
Gordon Porter 2002<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m left of GC. Straight up steep slab passing 3 BRs.<br />
Kye Riddington 1999<br />
<br />
The next climbs are about 20m south of "The Little Grotto". "Wet 'n' Wild" (a large dirty and often wet crack) is a good landmark.<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Debbie Does Dynos<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m right of WnW (below). Over bulge. Gnarly second clip if you're short. 2 RBs, 1 BR, #1.5 friend below top.<br />
Richard Jeffrey 1999<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Wet 'n' Wild<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At obvious large, dirty and often wet crack. Bring a range of friends and some absorbent cloth.<br />
Gordon Porter, Jeff Connelly, Grant Severn, Richard Jeffrey 1999<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Chicken Nuggets<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 1.5 left of WnW. Veer left then straight up. A little over protected with 7 BRs. This climb seems to have been retro-bolted with the appearance of several very large ring bolts. The original bolts have not been removed.<br />
Kye Riddington 1999<br />
<br />
About 10m left of the large ground level block next to Chicken Nuggets is a short slabby wall with the following routes.<br />
The Wondabyne Climbers indicate that several other solo routes and boulder problems were established in this area, however none were described as the climbs are very short and nondescript.<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Slabs Inc.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: At left juggy side of the steep slab. Trend up slabs past tree and more slabs to top.<br />
Phil Stallard, I. Dymock, I. Jones 1979<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>After You<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>11<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 10m left of SI. Up steep wall.<br />
Dave McGrouther, Phil Stallard (solo) 1979<br />
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○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Then Me<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 2m left of AY. Straight up wall on good holds.<br />
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979<br />
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○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Suburbia Street<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 6m left of TM at tree growing out of crack. Straight up crack and overhang above.<br />
Phil Stallard (solo) 1979George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-9118523503235853392011-07-30T04:36:00.000-07:002012-07-23T06:59:19.200-07:00Southwest Barrenjoey<div id="top">
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Introduction<br />
A very popular crag located on the south western side of the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.<br />
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Access<br />
From the carpark step over to Station Beach (on the estuary side of the peninsula). From here the crag can be seen poking out through the trees, low down on the left hand side of Barrenjoey. Walk 200m to the northern end of the beach (continue past the scattered rocks at the end of the beach) and pick up a single walking track that heads away from the beach, just past the red shed and the lighthouse track (don't head up the lighthouse track!). Follow the track up around the corner of the fence (past a white house), then continue along it for about 100m. Take the first major track off to the right - this meets the cliff directly below the Jezebel block. There is also a large boulder down near the waterline that has a couple of old bolts on it. If anyone has any information I'd love to hear it! Please take care of the place: carry out your own (and other people's) rubbish, stick to the existing tracks and make use of the numerous lower offs and rap points rather than trashing the descent gullies. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here. Crag was rebolted by the SRC in 2009.<br />
Climbs described right to left (east to west), facing the cliff.<br />
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The area of cliff heading off to the right (east) from where the track meets the cliff. Nowhere near as popular as the rest of the crag.<br />
Two sandy caves (the "Barrenjoey Hilton") are located just here.<br />
<br />
Evil Spuds 6m 14 <br />
The overhang.<br />
<br />
Gollum's Grope 4m 12 <br />
The offwidth.<br />
<br />
Pyroclean 4m 7 <br />
The chimney.<br />
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Zodiac's Pure Vegetables 8m 22 <br />
Start: 10m right of H. Up the wall and seam.<br />
Craig D. Martin 1984-02-09<br />
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The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together.<br />
<br />
Haircut 4m 13 <br />
The offwidth.<br />
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Solipsism 4m 13 <br />
The arete.<br />
<br />
Manteau 4m 12 <br />
The wall.<br />
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Speleolie 4m 9 <br />
The crack.<br />
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Feetus Position 4m 9 <br />
The offwidth.<br />
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Exit Tortons 10m 5 <br />
3m right of A, below chimney.<br />
Used as a descent route.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
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The Great Roof Left Hand Eliminate 8m 19 <br />
Start: Start on the ledge under the obvious big roof above the descent route ET. Up the chossy corner to roof. Hand traverse L to arete, up to DBB anchors.<br />
FTRA: Mike Garben 2003-03-01<br />
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Long Neck 7m 20 <br />
Start: Scramble up then start on block around the arete L of the Great Roof.<br />
Up middle of wall to DBB on top of the roof.<br />
FTRA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003-03-01<br />
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Albatross 12m 14 X <br />
Start: 5m right of FF.<br />
Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).<br />
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-09<br />
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Frog's Fling 13m 17 X <br />
Start: 1m right of K9.<br />
Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17.<br />
Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1982<br />
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K9 10m 17 <br />
Start: 2m right of R.<br />
Up the flaring finger crack.<br />
T. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-04<br />
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Ratbite 10m 11 <br />
Start: Below obvious corner 2m right of WG.<br />
Up the corner.<br />
Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan, Martin Jones 1983-07-04<br />
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★ Wild Gravity 12m 21 <br />
Start: 2.5m right of TMMDF, below thin flake. Up flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right.<br />
Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin 1983-09<br />
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Tchaikovsky Makes My Dog Fart 7m 22 <br />
Start: 1.5m right of PWCB.<br />
Variant start to PWCB. Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB.<br />
Mike Law, Craig B. Martin 1985-11-19<br />
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★★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket 18m 16 <br />
Start: At short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.<br />
Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!<br />
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-07<br />
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A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and to the right of PWCB.<br />
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★★ Cranky 7m 20 Þ <br />
Start: Marked, on the boulder above and 15m right of PWCB.<br />
Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.<br />
<br />
A (Open project) 8m 25+? <br />
The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are inappropriate expansion types and should not be trusted.<br />
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The track reaches the base of a huge block just here. Scramble left and up to the base of the main cliff. The following 3 climbs start on top of the block.<br />
<br />
Millie 11m 10 <br />
Start: 2m right of J. Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB.<br />
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★★ Jezebel 11m 9 <br />
Start: On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack.<br />
An excellent route for beginners. Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.<br />
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Two Steps Forward 11m 13 <br />
Start: As for J. Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J.<br />
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1982-11<br />
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Carrie Bradshaw 12m 14 <br />
Start: 2m left of TSF. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (#0.4 and #0.75 / #1 Camalot) in breaks to a double BB belay.<br />
Niall Doherty 2003-06-08<br />
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Starboard Barnacles 12m 14 Þ <br />
Start: Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree). Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.<br />
Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey 1984-06-03<br />
<br />
Elf Town 12m 14 X <br />
Start: Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay.<br />
Dave Stuckey, Johan Verhagen 1984-06-03<br />
<br />
Judgement Day 14m 14 <br />
Start: 2m left of ET. Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
★★★ Enterprise 15m 18 <br />
Start: 2m left of JD. 4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.<br />
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-06<br />
<br />
★ Enterprise Variant 15m 17 <br />
Start: As for E. Follow flake on right at top.<br />
Craig D. Martin, Craig B.Martin 1983-06<br />
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★ Crack of Dawn 15m 15 <br />
Start: 2m left of E, at obvious bum crack. Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
Arachibutyrophobia 15m 20 <br />
Start: 1m left of CoD. Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.<br />
Peter Ward 1986-06-08<br />
<br />
★★ Liquid Insanity 15m 18 <br />
Start: 1m left of A. Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.<br />
Glenn Robbins<br />
<br />
★★ Marsupial Smearer 18m 18 <br />
Start: 1m left of LI. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).<br />
Captain Black<br />
<br />
★★ I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For Piker's Variant 18m 18 <br />
Start: Marked "ISF". 2m left of MS. Head up wall on right side of rounded arete (cam down low, 2 BRs). Up to crack of MS, and follow this (2 BRs on bulge to left) to break. Up over the block (BR) to belay as for MS.<br />
<br />
★ I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For 18m 21 <br />
Start: As for ISHFWILFPV. At crack of MS, continue straight up over bulge (2 BRs), staying out of the crack.<br />
<br />
Domino 15m 14 <br />
Start: Below corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF. Up the corner crack past chockstones, getting harder with height.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
Tropico 15m 15 <br />
Start: Marked "AT". 2m left of D. Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO).<br />
<br />
★ Cramp Ons 16m 18 <br />
Start: Below wall, 2m left of T. Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
★ Wild Ride 16m 16 <br />
Start: Marked. 2m left of CO. Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO.<br />
<br />
The next climb starts below the south east face of the large boulder teetering on top of the crag above the Wild Ride area (obvious from beach).<br />
<br />
★★ Long Flower Noodle 7m 23 <br />
Start: Start below middle of face. Up to thread, traverse a bit R then up. DBB.<br />
FTRA: Mike Garben, Jo Maude 2003-01-23<br />
<br />
Back to ground level. For all routes from here to HTS descend using the double RB rap anchor above HTS.<br />
<br />
★ Hang Over 12m 9 <br />
Start: Below crack 1m left of WR. Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
Womb To Tomb 12m 17 <br />
Start: 1m left of HO below bulge. Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).<br />
Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-11<br />
<br />
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<a href="" id="#MiddenArea" name="#MiddenArea"></a><br />
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The following 5 climbs are located above an aboriginal midden that NPWS is trying to protect. Please minimise your impact in this area!<br />
<br />
★ Cosmic Ecology 12m 14 <br />
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Start: 2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack. Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
Cosmic Ecology Variant Start 5m 15 <br />
Start: 1m left of CE. Up to join CE.<br />
Craig D. Martin<br />
<br />
Lurgi Meets Plate Tectonics 12m 17 <br />
Start: As for CEVS. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB.<br />
Craig B. Martin 1983-06<br />
<br />
Ways Of Our Lives 15m 22 <br />
Start: Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam. Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT.<br />
Mike Meyers, David Hains 1984<br />
<br />
Squid Vicious 12m 20 <br />
Start: As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential").<br />
Mike Meyers, M. Toakley 1983-06-29<br />
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★ Computer Sox 7m 14 <br />
Start: 3m left of SV. Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.<br />
Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-11<br />
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Cythaul Haul 12m 10 <br />
Start: Crack left of CS. Up the crack.<br />
<br />
Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity 6m 14 <br />
Start: 2m left of CH. Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.<br />
Martin Jones<br />
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Sacrilege 4m 12 <br />
The Offwidth left of HTS.<br />
<br />
The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again 10m 19 <br />
Start: Below arete, 1m left of S. Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay.<br />
<br />
Benign 10m 20 Þ <br />
Start: 4m left of tPBSA. Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay.<br />
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-08-12<br />
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Benign Variant Finish 10m 16 Þ <br />
As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish.<br />
<br />
Been There, Done That 10m 7 <br />
Start: Chimney left of B. Chimney into the bowels of the earth.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
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<a href="" id="#PledgeaLegendWall" name="#PledgeaLegendWall"></a><br />
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A good looking wall with a selection of fine routes.<br />
<br />
★★ Central Pillar of Mordor 14m 19 <br />
Start: Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.<br />
<br />
★ Orgasmic 15m 11 <br />
Start: Below chimney left of CPoM. Up the chimney (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
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★ Sand Syringe 15m 18 X <br />
Start: 3m left of O. Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.<br />
Craig B. Martin, N. Moran 1984-07-01<br />
<br />
★ Not Your Average Cab Sav 15m 19 <br />
Start: 2m left of SS. Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.<br />
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-22<br />
<br />
★★ Pledge a Legend 16m 14 <br />
Start: 1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall. Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
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Borcat Blues 16m 18 <br />
Start: 2m left of PAL. Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL.<br />
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-07<br />
<br />
Tangerine Dream 15m 16 <br />
Start: 2m left of BB. Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
Cobwebs 15m 18 <br />
Start: 2m left of TD. Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD.<br />
Peter Ward, Trevor Carlos 1986-06-17<br />
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Celluloid Heroes 10m 10 <br />
Start: 8m left of C. Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
Nightingale 10m 7 <br />
The chimney left of CH. <br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
Pox Travels Fast 12m 16 <br />
Start: Just left of N. Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB.<br />
Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin<br />
<br />
Pinnacle of Peril 16m 15 X <br />
Start: Below arete left of PTF. Straight up exposed and unprotected arete.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
★ Super Exciting Xylophone 16m 21 <br />
2m left of PP. Popular. Thin crux up wall (BR) and through overlap then up airy, easy (grade 15) pinnacle (BR, cams, threads). Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however).<br />
<br />
Intoxicating Liquor 15m 9 <br />
Start: Left of SEX, below crack. Up crack then up chimney above that.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
★ Little Plaything 15m 19/20 <br />
Start: 1m left of IL. Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard.<br />
<br />
★ Anti Scuttler 15m 18 <br />
Start: In very shallow corner left of LP. A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP.<br />
Martin Jones, Craig B. Martin 1982-09-12<br />
<br />
★★ Sweet Heart 12m 22 <br />
Start: Just left of AS. Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB.<br />
FTRA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003<br />
<br />
Facet 15m 15 <br />
Start: Left of AS, below wide crack. Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
Crack 'n' Up 17m 8 <br />
Start: Below offwidth 2m left of F. Up the "lovely" offwidth.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.<br />
<br />
★★ Mescalito 12m 19 <br />
Start: 2m left of CnU below thin crack. Thin start then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.<br />
<br />
★ Mode 14m 16 <br />
Start: 2m left of M. 3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.<br />
Warwick Williams, Kevin Melville 2003-10<br />
<br />
Abseil Wall 14m 16 X <br />
Start: 2m left of M. Start:2m left of M at seam. Wall and Crack trending left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.<br />
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s<br />
<br />
★ Pan Pacific Wall 14m 16 <br />
Start: 2m left of AW. Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay.<br />
<br />
★ Long Line of Leanings 15m 19 <br />
Start: Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW.<br />
Craig B. Martin, Mike Law 1985-12-08<br />
<br />
Wrong Line of Leanings 15m 22 <br />
Start: Start in left side of LLoL cave. Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge.<br />
Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003-01-15<br />
<br />
★★ Pulse of Fools 12m 25 Þ <br />
Start: 5m left of LLL. Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.<br />
Mike Law 1985-12-02<br />
<br />
Suer 6m 10 <br />
Start: Below corner crack left of PoF. Up the crack.<br />
<br />
Krill 6m 13 <br />
The offwidth left of S.<br />
<br />
Ikon Direct 10m 19 Þ <br />
Start: Below middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay.<br />
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-22<br />
<br />
Ikon 10m 17 Þ <br />
Start: As for ID. Silly. Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up.<br />
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1984-06<br />
<br />
Rays Moppy 10m 11 <br />
Start: Marked M, 10m left of I. Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay.<br />
Ray Haak, John Shaw 2005-07-16<br />
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<div id="InsomniaCaveRock">
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<a href="" id="#InsomniaCaveRock" name="#InsomniaCaveRock"></a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">Insomnia Cave Rock</span></span></span></span></div>
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<br />
A huge boulder located above and behind Ikon, with an obvious chossy cave.<br />
<br />
Observatory 10m 15 <br />
Start: 5m right of cave. Over bulge to ledge then up crack to double BB.<br />
Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones 1983-07-25<br />
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Leon the Klepto Cat 12m 19 X <br />
Start: At right hand edge of cave. Once a test piece. Straight up to small cave then trend left using underclings and bridging (BR) to crack through roof of cave. Up to break (cams) then over bulge and up slab (minimal pro). Double BB belay.<br />
Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1983-02-16<br />
<br />
★ Tillies and Triangles 10m 23 <br />
Start: 4m left of LtKC. Up arete to lip of cave (BR). Crank straight up over lip and continue up blank slab (2 BRs). Double BB belay.<br />
Craig B. Martin 1984-09-22<br />
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Orbs Dilated Glory 10m 12 <br />
Start: 3m left of TaT. Straight up wall.<br />
Craig B. Martin (solo)<br />
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No Sorry it Makes Me Fart 9m 14 <br />
Start: 2m left of ODG. Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission.<br />
Mark O'Sullivan, Ray Haak 2004-05<br />
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Baby Steps 9m 10 <br />
Start: As for NSiMMF. On top of bulge step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam to double BB belay.<br />
Niall Doherty (self belayed, badly - does that make it a solo?) 2005-10-16<br />
<br />
More Tea Vicar? 8m 11 <br />
Start: Below the blunt arete a few metres left of BS. Up arete (natural pro) to double BB belay.<br />
Mark O'Sullivan, Ray Haak 2004-05<br />
<br />
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<div id="Strangler'sCorner">
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<a href="" id="#Strangler'sCorner" name="#Strangler'sCorner"></a><br />
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A short west facing wall located about 75m around past Insomnia Cave Rock and lower down. Distinguished by bright orange rock.<br />
It's unclear whether these climbs are described right to left or left to right. Still, it's worth wandering around and taking a look, since the rock is pretty good.<br />
<br />
Home Made Jamb 7m 10 <br />
A shame it's so short. Up the lovely layback crack.<br />
<br />
Seller's Pirate 4m 8 <br />
The crack.<br />
<br />
Never a Frown 4m 13 <br />
The wall.<br />
<br />
Inertia 4m 11 <br />
The crack.<br />
<br />
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<a href="" id="#end" name="#end"></a>George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-75757174389427543212011-07-14T05:54:00.000-07:002011-08-03T23:05:05.983-07:00BerowraTo enlarge topo or pic, click them. or go to Web Version from the end this page. Go to <a href="#end">the end.</a><br />
<div id="top"></div><a name="#top" id="#top"></a><br />
climbs are described left to right (East to West/Noth to South), facing the cliff.<br />
<br />
go to <a href="#LadderofGloomArea">Ladder of Gloom Area</a><br />
go to <a href="#CaveofSoapArea">Cave of Soap Area</a><br />
<br />
go to <a href="#TheBlackboardArea">The Blackboard Area</a><br />
go to <a href="#GlamorpusArea">Glamorpus Area</a><br />
<br />
go to <a href="#GlamorpusWallProper">Glamorpus Wall Proper</a><br />
go to <a href="#BulletHoleWall">Bullet Hole Wall</a><br />
<br />
go to <a href="#PositiveApeFactorArea">Positive Ape Factor Area</a><br />
go to <a href="#WallThingArea">Wall Thing Area</a> (South-end/West-end)<br />
<br />
<h2>East Buttress (Pimple Buttress) Area</h2>The good looking bulgy orange buttress just left of the eastern descent gully.<br />
<br />
○ A 10m 17 X <br />
Left of P somewhere. Marked. A poxy boulder problem. No pro?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9MEVKFvMZOA/Th7cKvDMMRI/AAAAAAAAFxs/tbypOkAsCeA/s1600/pic+Pimple+Buttress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9MEVKFvMZOA/Th7cKvDMMRI/AAAAAAAAFxs/tbypOkAsCeA/s1600/pic+Pimple+Buttress.jpg" /></a></div>★ Pimple 10m 19/20<br />
Between A and IFY. Marked. Good climbing up to and through the roof (1 BR, 1 RB), and easier but still pleasant up the crack in the headwall (natural protection). Tree belay back from the edge.<br />
<br />
★ Look Blue Go Purple 10m 18 Þ Start in scooped alcove right of P. Through gap in the scoop then follow RBs to the apex of the wall. 3 RBs to double RB lower off.<br />
Chris Yeomans, Dale Tweedie 2005-05-25<br />
<br />
★ It's For You 10m 18 Þ <br />
Good moves up the wall right of P (2 BRs to 2 RB lower off). The climb stays to the right, using the arete. An extra BR is located high up, in the centre of the face (left of the climb) for an alternate finish.<br />
Mike Law (solo) 1980s<br />
<br />
★ Taylor Made 6m 15 Þ <br />
Up and right of IFY. Jugs past 2 FHs. Although Julian reckons it's pretty poxy, everyone else reckons it's a great little warm up!<br />
Julian Anderson<br />
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<h2>Ladder of Gloom Area</h2>The descent gully arrives here. It is located 50m south of Pimple Buttress<br />
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○ Savage Cabbage 8m 19 <br />
5m left of CC, and 30m right of descent gully. Up thin crack then tricky moves left to main crack. Follow this (take care with pro) to new lower off. Often dirty and sometimes inhabited by a (friendly) brown snake.<br />
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s<br />
<br />
○ Stone Grotties 8m 16 X <br />
2m right of SC, just left of CC. A dangerous lead or dirty toprope up the filthy wall.<br />
<br />
The next route is often used as an ascent / descent.<br />
○ Cenotaph Corner 8m 4<br />
The slabby corner crack right of SG.<br />
<br />
○ B 9m 25+ X <br />
2m right of CC. Blank wall straight up past two BRs with desperate moves to clip the second BR and move past it, or very easily stepping right.<br />
Mikl Law 1980s<br />
<br />
★★★ Ladder of Gloom 12m 19 Þ <br />
Very popular. 10m right of CC. Traverse right to the bottom of the ladder then steeply up. 4 RBs (take care clipping the first) to double RB lower off.<br />
Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dpW2bIMPOzU/Th7mGXQdT1I/AAAAAAAAFx4/wZwW_E8pbDI/s1600/Ladder+of+Gloom+Area+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dpW2bIMPOzU/Th7mGXQdT1I/AAAAAAAAFx4/wZwW_E8pbDI/s1600/Ladder+of+Gloom+Area+2.jpg" /></a></div>★ Ladder of Death 10m 22 Þ<br />
Start directly below the LoG. Clip RB, big steep dyno to jug then short, strenuous arete (RB). Move left to 2nd RB on LoG and up.<br />
<br />
★★★ The Mantle Machine 12m 14 <br />
Demoralising for short-arses. Starts 4m right of LoD (just past the low roof with the hole). Move diagonally left mantling overhangs. Take a friend for a horizontal slot, with a BR higher up. Finish just right of LoG.<br />
Hayden Brotchie, N. Timms 1993-09-12<br />
<br />
★ Medium Strip 10m 20 Þ <br />
Start as for TMM. Follow the 4 gold FHs up the rounded arete.<br />
Julian Anderson 1998<br />
<br />
○ C 12m 4? <br />
5m right of MS. Up the low angled slab to the obvious ramp (BR). Has been mistaken as an ascent / descent route!<br />
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<div id="CaveofSoapArea"></div><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5838235978186806943&postID=7575717438942754321#CaveofSoapArea" id="#CaveofSoapArea" name="#CaveofSoapArea"></a><br />
<h2>Cave of Soap Area</h2>The big rounded cave with the distinctive overhanging corner crack (Soap), 30m or so right of TMM.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><br />
○ Sumo 18m 23 Þ<br />
Wall on left side of the Cave of Soap. Stick clip first RB, then traverse left along the lip of the roof past 7 more RBs to a double RB lower off at the end of the roof. Take care with the rock - a lot of it looks pretty friable.<br />
Lloyd Wishart 1997-07-29<br />
<br />
★★★ Soap 15m 23 <br />
The overhanging corner crack on the left edge of the cave. Up steep crack past jugs then out the roof crack and up.<br />
Giles Bradbury 1980s<br />
<br />
○ D (Project) 12m 28? Þ <br />
Heads up Soap for a couple of metres, then breaks out right across the main roof. 5 RBs to chain lower off (above LH).<br />
<br />
○ E (Dingo?) 8m 24 Þ <br />
2m right of Soap. Steeply up chips past 3 BRs and RB to double RB lower off.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qMLgiQ1jjQ/Th7mG3QfUwI/AAAAAAAAFx8/04sdKH9imK0/s1600/Soap+Cave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qMLgiQ1jjQ/Th7mG3QfUwI/AAAAAAAAFx8/04sdKH9imK0/s320/Soap+Cave.jpg" width="241" /></a></div>○ F (Dingo?) 8m 26 Þ<br />
1m right of E. Steeply up chips past 4 RBs to chain lower off as for LH.<br />
<br />
★ Luv Handles 8m 21 Þ X <br />
2m right of F. Steep moves past 5 RBs to chain lower off. 3rd RB is dodgy.<br />
Unknown 2001<br />
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<h2>The Blackboard Area</h2>A nice, dead vertical black wall that extends right from the Cave of Soap. Tends to seep<br />
quite badly after rain. Unfortunately it suffers from run off after rain so some routes may need a brush every once in a while. The routes on this wall have iron stone edges that makes for great crimpy climbing. During January 2003, most of the routes on this wall were rebolted by the SRC Rebolting Fund.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XypEug6oh4Q/Th7mH2_XtPI/AAAAAAAAFyA/K1VY6qXgFUY/s1600/The+Blackboard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XypEug6oh4Q/Th7mH2_XtPI/AAAAAAAAFyA/K1VY6qXgFUY/s320/The+Blackboard.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>★★ 3D Wimp Out 12m 21 Þ<br />
The right arete of the Cave of Soap. Undercut start, short arete then wall above. 4 RBs in total to lower off. May be harder since the glued on hold near the top ripped off.<br />
James Holbrook, Mike Law 1980s<br />
<br />
★ Alison 12m 25 Þ <br />
1m right of 3DW. Up to cave, then thin wall above. 4 RBs.<br />
James Holbrook 1980s<br />
<br />
★ The Red Menace 15m 24 Þ <br />
Up A to scoop, traverse right to jug on lip of roof, then up crimpy headwall. 5 RBs to lower off.<br />
Stephen Hawkshaw 2004-03<br />
Gash 12m 16 X <br />
3m right of A. Unpleasant V chimney, often dirty. Take care with pro.<br />
<br />
★★ Yesterday's Heroes 12m 17 Þ <br />
Very popular. 3m right of G, marked. Delicate start, L under overlap, trending R to top. 4 RBs to lower off. Direct through overlap is 18.<br />
Venus Kondos 1980s<br />
<br />
★ Palm Sunday 12m 21 Þ <br />
1m right of YH. Trend right past 3 spaced RBs on decreasing holds to lower off.<br />
Craig Martin, Harry Wilson 1980s<br />
<br />
○ Samantha 10m 20 <br />
2m right of PS. Thin face past 2 BRs, then cams to lower off (shared with DC).<br />
Scott Butler, James Holbrrok 1980s<br />
<br />
(up elevated onto platform.)<br />
<br />
○ Dangerous Currents 6m 22 Þ <br />
Marked. Straight up past two RBs to lower off. Straying right towards Eccles only scores 19.<br />
Matt Raison, Dan Raison 2004<br />
<br />
○ Eccles 7m 20 Þ <br />
Just right of DC. Up on crimps past 2 RBs to the lower off above DC.<br />
Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s<br />
<br />
○ JHTB 8m 20 X <br />
Right of E. No pro. Hard start.<br />
<br />
★ Bill Collins 10m 24 Þ <br />
Just right of elevated platform. Marked. Mantle on jug then thin and sharp face climbing. 3 RBs to lower off. There has been some controversy about the grade of this climb - some people have said it's 25 while others say it's a soft 24.<br />
Mike Law 1980s<br />
<br />
★ Gidget / Verdon 15m 22+ Þ <br />
8m right of BC. Ridiculously hard start, then up flake and veer right at 3rd RB to top. 3 RBs in total with no lower off (yet). A variant veers left at the 3rd RB past another 2 RBs to a double RB lower off.<br />
Mike Law 1980s<br />
<br />
★★ Butter Knives 12m 28 Þ X <br />
4m right of GV. Sharp and thin past 4 BRs. Originally graded 26, but a sandbag.<br />
Mike Law 1980s<br />
<br />
○ Marsala 8m 12 <br />
The corner crack at the right hand end of the Blackboard. Layback or faceclimb.<br />
A good beginners route with good protection and easily top roped.<br />
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</up><br />
<div id="GlamorpusArea"></div><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5838235978186806943&postID=7575717438942754321#GlamorpusArea" id="#GlamopousArea" name="#GlamorpusArea"></a><br />
<h2>Glamorpus Area</h2>50m right of the Blackboard is a short, steep pocketed wall.<br />
<br />
○ G 6m ?? X <br />
At the right hand side of the pocketed wall. One old bolt hole down low, and one manky BR up higher.<br />
<br />
○ Julian's Finest Hour 6m 15 X <br />
5m right of G. Up the dirty black wall with dubious natural pro.<br />
Julian Anderson 1990s<br />
<br />
○ H 8m 22<br />
Start: Up and right of JFH.<br />
Straight up face on very slick rock. 3 RB’s to double RB lower off.<br />
<br />
○ Grumpy Old Men 9m 23 <br />
4 metres left of Scones of Doom. Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. Two rings to lower off. Bouldery.<br />
Gavin Portier 2009<br />
<br />
○ Up the Duff 8m 22 Þ <br />
2m left of cave. Unattractive. 3 RBs to double RB lower off.<br />
Paul Duff 1997<br />
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<div id="GlamorpusWallProper"></div><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5838235978186806943&postID=7575717438942754321#GlamorpusWallProper" id="#GlamorpusWallProper" name="#GlamorpusWallProper"></a><br />
<h2>Glamorpus Wall Proper</h2>60m right of the Blackboard, an attractive, bulgy orange wall capped with rooves.<br />
<br />
★★★ Scones of Doom 12m 23 Þ<br />
Start: Far left of cave. Marked. Steeply up past 4 RBs to a double bolt belay just over the roof.<br />
Mikl Law 1980s<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cbDEcwzv2nI/Th7mITXmcLI/AAAAAAAAFyE/RbsuG9LzbTE/s1600/Glamorpus+Area.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cbDEcwzv2nI/Th7mITXmcLI/AAAAAAAAFyE/RbsuG9LzbTE/s320/Glamorpus+Area.jpg" width="230" /></a></div><br />
★★ Omnopox 12m 24 Þ <br />
3m right of SoD. 3 U bolts, left to double U bolt lower off.<br />
Mikl Law 1980s<br />
<br />
★★★ Glamorpus 15m 24 Þ <br />
Start below central hanging arete. Compact wall past 5 RBs, then step left to chain. Original continued out the steep arete.<br />
Mikl Law 1980s<br />
<br />
○ Glamour Mum 12m 22 <br />
Picking the absolute worst of Glamorpus and Are You My Mother. More mantles than a display home estate. Do the mantle on Glamorpus then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on Are You My Mother.<br />
Anthony Lin 26/07/2009<br />
<br />
○ Are You My Pussy 19m 23 <br />
A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb Are You My Mother to second bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U-bolt, finishing up Glamorpus.<br />
Barry Jones 2009<br />
<br />
★★ Are You My Mother? 12m 25 Þ <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9aF_DLRCmU/Th-WLJf_59I/AAAAAAAAFyg/6T4Kv-7Aw68/s1600/Photo0779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9aF_DLRCmU/Th-WLJf_59I/AAAAAAAAFyg/6T4Kv-7Aw68/s320/Photo0779.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>4m right of G. Reachy wall, then out roof past hole.<br />
Scott Butler 1980s<br />
<br />
★ Green Eggs and Ham 12m 25<br />
2m right of AYMM. Up corner, left at roof, corner (3 BRs). Right and up (cams).<br />
Scott Butler 1980s<br />
<br />
The following climb is another 30m or so further on.<br />
<br />
○ Lentil Lollipops 12m 9 <br />
Marked. Steep start, then up the unpleasant chimney / corner.<br />
Geoffrey Heath, James Holbrook 1980s<br />
<br />
○ I (Ancient open project) 12m ?? X <br />
3m right of LL. Up steep prow past 2 BRs and 3 FHs.<br />
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<div id="BulletHoleWall"></div><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5838235978186806943&postID=7575717438942754321" id="#BulletHoleWall" name="#BulletHoleWall"></a><br />
<h2>Bullet Hole Wall</h2>Around right is a pocketed wall with a low roof on the left end, and a prominent flake up and right. Great climbing, but often crowded.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1eg2iZCNRa4/Th7mI8HmbsI/AAAAAAAAFyI/ojy4pYpOZ-w/s1600/Bullet+Hole+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1eg2iZCNRa4/Th7mI8HmbsI/AAAAAAAAFyI/ojy4pYpOZ-w/s320/Bullet+Hole+Wall.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>★ Scott's Edge 15m 22/23 Þ<br />
The left arete of Bullet Hole Wall. Roof and arete passing 5 RBs to lower off.<br />
Scott Butler 1980s<br />
<br />
★ Comausminpab 12m 18 Þ <br />
Marked. 2m right of SE. The name is a Navy acronym for "Commander Australian Mine Warfare and Patrol Boat Forces". Roof (RB), then pocketed wall past rebar staple and RBs. RB / U bolt lower off.<br />
<br />
○ IGMC 12m 19 <br />
Between C and FSP. Roof (RB), then straight up past 4 RB to double RB lower off. Very dirty.<br />
<br />
★ Fox / Sox / Pox 12m 18 Þ <br />
Very popular. 2m right of C. Roof, then pocketed wall past 2 rebar staples and 2 RBs to a chain lower off.<br />
<br />
★ Natasha 12m 22 Þ X <br />
3m right of FSP. Sustained pockets past 4RB to chain lower off. Thin crux past 3rd RB.<br />
<br />
★★ Looks Poxable 12m 21 Þ <br />
Great. 1m right of N. 4 RBs to new double U bolt lower offs.<br />
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s<br />
<br />
★ Mental Fatigue 11m 18 Þ <br />
The prominent flake 2m right of LP. Popular. Follow flake up and left, then up wall to chain lower off. 4 RBs in total. Direct start past 2 RBs is 21.<br />
James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s<br />
<br />
○ Broken Candy 11m 20 X <br />
Start as for MF. Up and right past 2RB (1st shared with MF) and U bolt to double RB lower off. Dirty.<br />
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s<br />
<br />
○ Torque is Cheap 10m 22 <br />
4m right (up slope) from MF. Great wall climbing using some great holds and some small ones as well. Gain the break then venture up the slab to finish.<br />
Gavin Portier 2009<br />
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<h2>Positive Ape Factor Area</h2>30m right of the Bullet Hole Wall, a nice orange wall and corner.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q3FhPUKDQeE/Th7mJo01oFI/AAAAAAAAFyM/7tAps6Bp-SM/s1600/Positive+Ape+Factor+Area.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q3FhPUKDQeE/Th7mJo01oFI/AAAAAAAAFyM/7tAps6Bp-SM/s320/Positive+Ape+Factor+Area.jpg" width="235" /></a></div>★ Who Cares 12m 19/20 Þ X <br />
Start As for 24. From scoop after bouldery start head left to arete. At the cave, head right (RB). Take care with pro (wires and cams).<br />
James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s<br />
<br />
★ 24 12m 21 <br />
3m left of the corner. Boulder steep start (stick clip RB), then big crux move past 3rd RB to break. More easily to top. Only worth 20 if you veer left at 3rd RB.<br />
James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s<br />
<br />
★ Positive Ape Factor 10m 22 <br />
The obvious orange corner. Easy up the cracks then a huge reach (crux) to horizontal break. Take care up the final corner - it's quite hard and runout. 2 good BBs.<br />
Scott Butler 1980s<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-if4qVXKCrp4/Th7mKOnz-TI/AAAAAAAAFyQ/KgcdLqwCjFU/s1600/Positive+Ape+Factor+Area+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-if4qVXKCrp4/Th7mKOnz-TI/AAAAAAAAFyQ/KgcdLqwCjFU/s1600/Positive+Ape+Factor+Area+2.jpg" /></a><br />
★ Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish) 10m 21 <br />
Up PAF to right leading flake. Out flake past bolt.<br />
Giles Bradbury 1980s<br />
<br />
○ J (Ancient open project) 10m ?? <br />
2m right of PAF. 2 BRs (1st has ancient tat).<br />
<br />
○ K (Ancient open project) 10m ?? <br />
2m right of J. 1 ancient BR.<br />
<br />
★★ Daily Grind 10m 25 Þ <br />
2m right of K. Technical.<br />
Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s<br />
<br />
○ Kenneth's Climb 10m 14 <br />
2m right of DG, below cracks. Steep start to pleasant slabby cracks. Double BB belay.<br />
James Holbrook, Greg Christie 1980s<br />
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<div id="WallThingArea"></div><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5838235978186806943&postID=7575717438942754321#WallThingArea" id="#WallThingArea" name="#WallThingArea"></a><br />
<h2>Wall Thing Area</h2><br />
A small wall at the far right end of the crag. The southern access comes down here.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nxajFJbWob4/Th7mK5MyXFI/AAAAAAAAFyU/W07jNt7KY4Y/s1600/Wall+Thing+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nxajFJbWob4/Th7mK5MyXFI/AAAAAAAAFyU/W07jNt7KY4Y/s320/Wall+Thing+Wall.jpg" width="233" /></a></div><br />
<br />
★ Flake Thing 12m 21 <br />
5m right of KC. Right side of arete past bolts and cams.<br />
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s<br />
<br />
★ Wall Thing 12m 18 Þ <br />
2m right of FT. Wall past breaks (often sandy) to thin crack. 4 RBs to lower off.<br />
Rohan Reynolds, Michael ? 1980s<br />
<br />
○ Boundary Rider 10m 19 Þ <br />
1m right of WT. Straight up past RB and 3 BRs to new lower off. Straying right near the top only scores a 16.<br />
Julian Anderson, Jonas Kuginis 1998-07<br />
<br />
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<div id="end"></div><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5838235978186806943&postID=7575717438942754321" id="#end" name="#end"></a>George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-28846747179594158502011-06-27T18:35:00.000-07:002011-06-27T18:35:01.414-07:00Bonnet Bay BoulderingCrag faces West.<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Sandstone Bouldering<br />
Acknowledgement<br />
Updated by Neil Monteith<br />
<br />
Introduction<br />
A small bouldering area offering steep problems from V0 to V9. One of the best hard bouldering spots in the Shire. Dry in any weather but is spoodgy in summer. Local boulderers seem to have left old manky matts in the cave, which means you might not need to bring your own. Bed bugs included free of charge. Covered in detail in the "Sydney Bouldering" guide.<br />
<br />
Access<br />
Park at end of Harrison Road in Bonnett Bay. Walk between houses to baseball oval and find small track going up hill into bush on the left. When you hit the first insignificant rock outcrop (about 50m up the hill) scramble left along cliff base to find well chalked cave after 50m.George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-43483771847087338052011-06-27T18:31:00.000-07:002012-08-27T06:23:45.820-07:00Bonnet Bay
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Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#LeftWall">Left Wall</a></span>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Introduction</span><br />
<br />
It has possibly the best grade 24 and 27 sport routes in Sydney, but all grades are catered for. Great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area, and only minutes from the car. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. It faces south and is an ice box in winter. Please keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag.<br />
Climbs are described from left to right as you face the cliff.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Left Wall</span><br /><br />
20m up and L from the main track is this short grey wall with a few brushed gritty face routes. The bolts are gigantic.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlxV3Tv0HqZaSuzn58MpxIUUT4o82EqNlimFu1DbPFf2ZRN57g1E7azgIW6L4Ol5tI9jTj4pMXwUTGKjNdIASQdTh3V7oy49xwVsNjF2Be9YTW6sVZc-LWhyphenhyphenr82xtHXq4qBNksndkX7CX7/s1600/Left+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlxV3Tv0HqZaSuzn58MpxIUUT4o82EqNlimFu1DbPFf2ZRN57g1E7azgIW6L4Ol5tI9jTj4pMXwUTGKjNdIASQdTh3V7oy49xwVsNjF2Be9YTW6sVZc-LWhyphenhyphenr82xtHXq4qBNksndkX7CX7/s400/Left+Wall.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
1<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Overkilled<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<br />
The far L route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish.<br />
Ed Rutherford?<br />
<br />
★ 2<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Stopping Short<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>2Þ<br />
Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly U-bolts. Rap anchor is positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.<br />
Ed Rutherford?<br />
<br />
3<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mildly Bent<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>11m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<br />
Another slabby wall with three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the R near the end its a few grades harder.<br />
Ed Rutherford?<br />
<br />
4<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Easy Root<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<br />
Starts on far R of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.<br />
<br />
Return to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#top">the top</a></span><br />
<br />
<div id="MiddleWall">
</div><span style="font-size: large;">Middle Wall</span><br />
<br />
The first bit of rock the main trail walks under. It is actually two blocks split by a narrow chimney with a gnarled tree growing across the entrance.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFgv5p_AkiRVo_sVsZ9ZQMVCFeE1taVR5yaGOjQ6OGREVmoeBdDTysmLPUAd5YfSv8Q8RXz7vjGrFvhB-Edx00g9iVPTolvoUoxc1DasxJJ_5sbzBkC2UYjcyDbo1HehrcKZtHa4VP5b-/s1600/Middle+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFgv5p_AkiRVo_sVsZ9ZQMVCFeE1taVR5yaGOjQ6OGREVmoeBdDTysmLPUAd5YfSv8Q8RXz7vjGrFvhB-Edx00g9iVPTolvoUoxc1DasxJJ_5sbzBkC2UYjcyDbo1HehrcKZtHa4VP5b-/s400/Middle+Wall.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
5<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Suburban Crack Fiend<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<br />
Wide R facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.<br />
<br />
6<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Premature Evacuation<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<br />
Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts and lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.<br />
Ed Rutherford?<br />
<br />
7<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Tiptoe Ridge<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12<br />
Was once a good easy route, but now a lovely vine grows down the top crack and a ringtail possom lives in a pocket. Stay off. Starts just L of the tree and R of the giant u-bolts.<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span">O</span><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Chimney<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<br />
Stem up the gap between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the L. Lower-off anchor high up on the L.<br />
Gay Welders Union 2011<br />
<br />
First ascent details for the following three excellent climbs are unknown so I have made up names for them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPdLtooA1Inhb-iVDiZPR2YJ2-MgDYNomwPQ7vL530nsSCXokG7eKLmvbwg2MJ6X5GWTD2F9S312yHA9gKJhv2QNMUT3lznH5Tg_Hc5bTaaOYGUI_YePU3YFtFIAkBrYM_cJd2AG4RJAIz/s1600/Middle+Wall_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPdLtooA1Inhb-iVDiZPR2YJ2-MgDYNomwPQ7vL530nsSCXokG7eKLmvbwg2MJ6X5GWTD2F9S312yHA9gKJhv2QNMUT3lznH5Tg_Hc5bTaaOYGUI_YePU3YFtFIAkBrYM_cJd2AG4RJAIz/s400/Middle+Wall_2.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
★★★ 8<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Kim<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<br />
The L arete on great rock, with some great technical moves. Three rings (and some leftover carrots - clip everything) to a lower-off.<br />
FA Unknown<br />
<br />
★★★ 9<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mowgli<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<br />
The featured wall R of Kim with three ringbolts. Lower-off at top.<br />
FA Unknown<br />
<br />
★ 10<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Jungle Book<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<br />
Up to first bolt of Mowgli then step R to ledge then straight up past two ringbolts. Shares loweroff with Mowgli.<br />
FA Unknown<br />
<br />
O <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Right Edge<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12<br />
The R arete of this wall, R of a tree. Fun juggy climbing up a thin rock ridge. Not much protection. Soloed on first ascent.<br />
Gay Welders Union (solo) 2011<br />
<br />
Return to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#top">the top</a></span>
<br /><br />
<div id="RightWall">
</div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Right Wall</span><br />
<br />
Walk 10m R to this well chalked wall with amazing orange rock.<br />
The first few routes are up and L behind the trees.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWwcWihrhVfoxAm7NKjDmqYn2v8YV-jXArLXGBf2PsScw6Z3RCyGJmuzSbAIreAvgya_OTVjQ77eQmQxP4v6WhOjD2jHSxlGw6Z53e3X3_WF7cuuiq61SrqRwpDfHagU0k5FANPIQM0HIR/s1600/Right_Wall_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWwcWihrhVfoxAm7NKjDmqYn2v8YV-jXArLXGBf2PsScw6Z3RCyGJmuzSbAIreAvgya_OTVjQ77eQmQxP4v6WhOjD2jHSxlGw6Z53e3X3_WF7cuuiq61SrqRwpDfHagU0k5FANPIQM0HIR/s400/Right_Wall_1.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYa9WE2bLVziof4Dvid07Jt_BkCQr4XJhyphenhyphenfeW4bkgrieehY9so6bhyHBbq9EFazyB6QVSDmzG1qURuL2dfnhYZA06hsd7gTmMusKMDHtOGM-dp3Rf_s2g8uqf01r_j6ffAFCiPtCXMpX5C/s1600/Right_Wall_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYa9WE2bLVziof4Dvid07Jt_BkCQr4XJhyphenhyphenfeW4bkgrieehY9so6bhyHBbq9EFazyB6QVSDmzG1qURuL2dfnhYZA06hsd7gTmMusKMDHtOGM-dp3Rf_s2g8uqf01r_j6ffAFCiPtCXMpX5C/s400/Right_Wall_2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
★★ 11<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Slapperette<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<br />
Rounded arête just L of Glorius Manglervision. Contrived but funky. can be done without, but the hold on the R between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.<br />
Mikl 2011<br />
<br />
★★★ 12<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Glorious Manglervision<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<br />
L leaning crack in behind the trees. Funky climbing that leaves you in tangles. Recently retro-bolted. A brush-tailed possum sometimes lives beneath the anchors, don't scare him too much!<br />
Mike Law 1980s<br />
<br />
★★ 13<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Between the Lines<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6Þ<br />
Sustained but contrived. Shallow R facing corner to rooflet. R to flake on L side of corner - up this to arete then L and over roof. To stay on route no stepping on R side of wide crack. If you step over the line then it's probably 22.<br />
Neil Monteith 2010<br />
<br />
★★ 14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bruised and Scratched<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5Þ<br />
A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to anchors. Retro-bolted<br />
Mike Law 1980s<br />
<br />
★★★ 15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Lean Beef<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6Þ<br />
Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from R to L - then big move up final wall to double RB lower off. Big reaches or dynos. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.<br />
Mike Law 1990s<br />
<br />
★★★ 16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Heavy Haulage<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>27<br />
Start as for Lean Beef, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). Either finish direct to DBB (carrots) over the top, or traverse at top to Lean Beef lower off. Recently rebolted. GOLD!!<br />
Giles Bradbury and Mike Law 1990s<br />
<br />
★ 17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Offalwidth<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<br />
Big wide rounded crack splitting R side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay L up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.<br />
<br />
★★ 18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>A1<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<br />
Contrived. Just to the R of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness. Stay out of the crack for the real tick. DBB lower off up high near the trees.<br />
?<br />
<br />
★ 19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Aardvark<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<br />
The rooflet and steep wall to the R of A1 and L of the scoopy cave. U-bolts and carrots. Heave-ho over the easy overhang then up the wall, jugs on R help or eliminate them for a harder variant.<br />
<br />
Return to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#top">the top</a></span>
<br /><br />
<div id="FarRightWall">
</div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Far Right Wall</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtz5tEQDtcwSfAYYLnJHibD64lRfBIQtAiu3slXm9JzoATy55yk4ATz1TnuapzuRFh6ZDIUyL0gGQ-ArSoXGwjC5WMopWRyPM29GQss_1oE0-H83pP9tKMglslC2PI1UqcjhC6z7YrYkr-/s1600/Far_Right_Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtz5tEQDtcwSfAYYLnJHibD64lRfBIQtAiu3slXm9JzoATy55yk4ATz1TnuapzuRFh6ZDIUyL0gGQ-ArSoXGwjC5WMopWRyPM29GQss_1oE0-H83pP9tKMglslC2PI1UqcjhC6z7YrYkr-/s400/Far_Right_Wall.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
The next couple of routes are 5m to the R starting at small cave that has a disturbing resemblance to Jabba the Hut.<br />
<br />
20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Climb at Own Risk<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>ÞX<br />
Climb overhanging juggy scoops beside tree. FHs to DBB. Abseil from a big tree, or Top-belay and walk off.<br />
Ian and Matt 2001<br />
<br />
21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Lumberjack<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>4Þ<br />
Good warm-up. R most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. Steeply over bulge to flake then traverse L onto face to top. 4 U-bolts and a giant U-bolt lower-off (not suit to top-rope), or one step higher to DBB shared with CaOR (not suit to top-rope).<br />
Neil Monteith 2010<br />
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Return to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#top">the top</a></span> of Bonnet Bay
<br />
<div id="end">
</div>
<a href="" id="#end" name="#end"></a>
George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-58706150960063368002011-04-20T05:14:00.000-07:002012-07-08T06:43:52.687-07:00Mt Kuring-GaiTo enlarge topo or pic, click them. or go to Web Version from the end this page. Go to <a href="#end">the end.</a><br />
<div id="top">
</div>
<a href="" id="#top" name="#top"></a><br />
go to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#middlewall">Middle Wall</a></span><br />
go to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#motocrosswall">Motocross Wall</a></span><br />
<br />
go to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#lostandfoundwall">Lost and found Wall</a></span><br />
go to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#farawaywall">Faraway Wall</a></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6CmUHBq5ZVE/T-1x-4Yok7I/AAAAAAAAILs/mTLjadVeYa8/s1600/Mt_kuringai_approach_map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6CmUHBq5ZVE/T-1x-4Yok7I/AAAAAAAAILs/mTLjadVeYa8/s640/Mt_kuringai_approach_map.jpg" width="436" /></a></div>
<br />
Fossil Wall<br />
This wall is located 5 minutes wall downhill from the parking area. Short climbs on good rock.<br />
Head west over embankment near a water drain and follow the faint watercourse downhill for 200m to reach cliff top. Turn right and scramble down.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310975/fossil%20wall%20topo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310975/fossil%20wall%20topo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Routes are described left to right (facing cliff).<br />
<br />
1 Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 6m Þ <br />
2.5m L of VTV. Up past 2 RB finishing at same anchors as VTV.<br />
<br />
2 Vanstone the Vampire 7m 16 2Þ <br />
Just right of descent gully. Up short wall.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004<br />
<br />
3 Children Overboard 7m 22 2Þ <br />
Up thin face.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004<br />
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4 Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 6m 2Þ <br />
3m L of CO<br />
<br />
5 Political Prisoner 7m 17 2Þ <br />
Straight up passing 2 breaks and an orange grey streak. Shorties can add a grade.<br />
Rod Wills, Sep 2003<br />
<br />
6 Ruddock the Ring Wraith 12m 20 3Þ <br />
Follow flake right over slab to top.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004<br />
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★★ 7 The Mind has Mountains 10m 20 3Þ <br />
Up pockets then trend right over bulge.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Aug 2003<br />
<br />
★★★ 8 Captain Underpants and the Attack of the Wicked Wedgie Woman 10m 18 3Þ <br />
The first route at Mt Kuringai. Up pockets then diagonal break through bulge. Pumpy!<br />
Rod Wills, Sep 2003<br />
<br />
★ 9 Professor Poopy Pants 8m 20 3Þ <br />
Diagonal line of bolts. Short but stout.<br />
Rod Wills, Aug 2004<br />
<br />
10 Open Project 10m 4Þ <br />
The crack with 4 RBs.<br />
<br />
★ Legoland 15m 16 4Þ <br />
Up obvious line with ledges.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Sep 2003<br />
<br />
○ Working from Home 50m 16 <br />
Start as for L. Rising traverse following ledge / break / crack to finish on RtRW. Broken into 2 pitches with belay on Captain Underpants.<br />
Andrew Ingles, Colin Larter 2005<br />
<br />
★ Elbow Abrasions 15m 16 4Þ <br />
Escapes the crux of UM. Up UM to 3rd bolt then step left and finish up L.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Sep 2003<br />
<br />
★★ Unguarded Moment 15m 21 4Þ <br />
At right hand end of wall. Great technical climbing up improbable line. Up slabby face to mantle, step R to crux over bulge. Possibly harder if you're short.<br />
Chris Yoemans, April 2004<br />
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Return to <a href="#top">Top</a><br />
<br />
<div id="middlewall">
</div>
<a href="" id="#middlewall" name="#middlewall"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">Middle Wall</span></span></span></span></div></div>
<br />
A short wall midway between Fossil Wall and Motocross Wall. To approach directly, locate a large gum tree halfway along the mesh fence of the Motocross Compound. Turn left and follow cairns down through the bush to the top of the crag. Best access is down left side facing wall.<br />
<br />
★ Best Of The Shaved 9m 19 4Þ <br />
Start as for CFZ. Step L at 2nd bolt then up.<br />
David Filan, 30-12-2007<br />
<br />
★ Care Factor Zero 8m 18 3Þ <br />
Left side of slab.<br />
Rod Wills, 6-5-2007<br />
<br />
★ Ecstatic Addict 10m 18 3Þ <br />
3m R of CFZ. Up centre of wall, left side of obvious feature.<br />
Kevin Van Tinburg, 6-5-2007<br />
<br />
★ Midge Madness 10m 21 4Þ <br />
2m R of EA. Up centre of wall on R side of obvious feature.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Dec 2004<br />
<br />
○ Project (Closed) 6m 2Þ <br />
10m R of MM. Right side of cave, tending straight up out of cave.<br />
<br />
○ Project (Closed) 6m 2Þ <br />
Possibly another project with the same start.<br />
<br />
○ Well It Ain't Everest 7m 17 2Þ <br />
8m R of Project. Steep start to slabby finish. Shared lower-offs or walk off.<br />
Rod Wills, 2007<br />
<br />
○ Well it Ain't K2 7m 17 2Þ <br />
2m R of WIAE. Steep start to slabby finish. Shared loweroffs or walk off.<br />
Rod Wills, 2007<br />
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Return to <a href="#top">Top</a><br />
<br />
<div id="motocrosswall">
<a href="" id="#motocrosswall" name="#motocrosswall"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">
Motocross Wall</span></span></span></span></div></div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310975/motocross%20wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="84" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310975/motocross%20wall.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
A long broken wall of approx 100 metres in length, ranging in height from 10-15 metres. From slab to roofs its got it all.<br />
Continue past locked gate along the fire trail to motocross course. Veer left along Gundah ridge track for 5 minutes until it takes a sharp right turn. Here take a foot track on your left to the cliff top and scramble down gully. You will hit the cliff base at "The Grudge".<br />
<br />
○ The Grudge 12m 18 4Þ <br />
Staight up face on wall directly after access gully. Top out, belay off trees at the top.<br />
Rod Wills, Oct 2004<br />
<br />
○ Extinction Never Felt So Good 12m 17 4Þ <br />
15m R of TG on next prominent wall. Up over two ledges to face and crux.<br />
Rod Wills, Oct 2004<br />
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<a href="http://www.cragx.org/images/enfsg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.cragx.org/images/enfsg.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
★ Dinosaurs Must Die 12m 19 4Þ <br />
2m R of ENFSG. Up L side of cave onto tricky face.<br />
Rod Wills, Oct 2003<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.cragx.org/images/rodproject.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.cragx.org/images/rodproject.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
★ Life On Hold 12m 20 4Þ <br />
Hard start. Up R side of slab over small rooflet and onto slab.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Oct 2003<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.cragx.org/images/lifeonhold.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.cragx.org/images/lifeonhold.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
○ Petrified Wood 10m 20 2Þ <br />
Up corner block through break over roof. Will it ever get repeated? Shared lower offs.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Dec 2003<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.cragx.org/images/vanessaproject.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.cragx.org/images/vanessaproject.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
○ A Dream, Nothing More 10m 15 <br />
Corner R of PW. Up corner crack (RB) then up easy corner (gear).<br />
Vanessa Wills, Nov 2003<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.cragx.org/images/dreamnm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.cragx.org/images/dreamnm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
○ Fossilized Thought 10m 18 3Þ <br />
Start as for ADNM. Boulder up face left of corner crack, step across right to face. Then easily up slab to hard finish. Bridging in the corner up high only gets you 15.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Nov 2003<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.cragx.org/images/fthought.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.cragx.org/images/fthought.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
○ Open Project 8m 2Þ <br />
Around corner on next wall. Over rooflet onto face. Go for it!<br />
<br />
★★ Ragged Claw 15m 23 Þ <br />
Start in middle of next face around arete. Over bulge, onto slab then thin face.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Oct 2004<br />
<br />
○ Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 15m 6Þ <br />
Start on adjacent wall about 5m R of RC at thin seam.<br />
<br />
○ Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 15m 7Þ <br />
Starts on bulging ramp about 1.5m L of PS. Up to 2nd RB then traverse L past 2 RBs then up past 3 RBs to DBB half way along wall.<br />
<br />
○ Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 18m 5Þ <br />
As for previous project. Straight up wall past 5 RBs to DBB.<br />
<br />
○ Pinkie Shredder 15m 18 <br />
On the next wall is a large obvious splitter crack.<br />
Duane White, Dec 2004<br />
<br />
★★★ The Devil Inside 15m 23 4Þ <br />
1m R of PS. Bouldery start up prow then onto thin technical face.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Oct 2004<br />
<br />
★★★ Heresy 15m 22 5Þ <br />
2m R of TDI. A crimpy classic by all accounts! Bouldery start over bulge onto face.<br />
Rod Wills, Sep 2004<br />
<br />
○ Project (Closed) 15m 3Þ <br />
2m R of H. Up wall and arete.<br />
<br />
○ Goblin Grotto 15m 15M2 <br />
L of FG in grotto. Up crack, aid through roof and up small gully tending left over boulders to top.<br />
Colin Larter, June 2004<br />
<br />
★ Goofy Foot 10m 19 Þ <br />
Up right side of cave via jug to top.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qZrT1PRpAgM/ThhA61RnNHI/AAAAAAAAFv4/-5lO9NnZcGs/s1600/P1070226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qZrT1PRpAgM/ThhA61RnNHI/AAAAAAAAFv4/-5lO9NnZcGs/s320/P1070226.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
○ Open Project 15m 22?-24?<br />
(i think this Open Project has been completed already by a precious contributor.)<br />
10m R of GF. Over ledge through middle of "wave" shaped wall. 4RBs.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oCrcC-vJU-c/ThhA0g7ibHI/AAAAAAAAFvs/5VCoG6Z8F2o/s1600/P1070224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oCrcC-vJU-c/ThhA0g7ibHI/AAAAAAAAFvs/5VCoG6Z8F2o/s320/P1070224.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
○ Malibu Rider 10m 13-16?<br />
Start as for open project (cam in break), then traverse R across slab (RB) to corner crack then easily up to lower offs.<br />
Vanessa Wills (solo), Mar 2004<br />
<br />
○ Grommet 10m 17 <br />
A direct start to MR, straight up crack.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004<br />
<br />
○ Skank 10m 21 3Þ <br />
1m R of G. Up through rooflet to shallow corner.<br />
Tim Mayer, 15-4-2007<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-we7jl_5Unkk/ThhA4tJY1qI/AAAAAAAAFv0/EHCmPsCkLc8/s1600/P1070225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-we7jl_5Unkk/ThhA4tJY1qI/AAAAAAAAFv0/EHCmPsCkLc8/s320/P1070225.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
○ Unfinished Project 10m X <br />
Up through some very hard territory in the middle of the cave. Still needs another bolt.<br />
<br />
○ Guns, Germs and Steel 10m 18 <br />
5m past cave. The slab to small bulging crack line.<br />
Luke Atkinson, 2004<br />
<br />
○ Ball Buster 12m 23 3Þ <br />
Up face and left side of weakness.<br />
Tim Mayer, 15-4-2007<br />
<br />
★★ Somewhere Down The Barrel 12m 21 4Þ <br />
5m R of GGAS. Up orange face and weakness.<br />
Elliot Braham, Apr 2004<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.cragx.org/images/Elliotproject.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.cragx.org/images/Elliotproject.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
Return to <a href="#top">Top</a><br />
<br />
<div id="lostandfoundwall">
<a href="" id="#lostandfoundwall" name="#lostandfoundwall"></a><br />
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Lost and Found Wall</span></span></span></span></div></div>
</div><br />
Follow the fire trail around to right after Motocross Wall access gully, then left along walking trail along ridge line down the hill. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IdBDJ4h8ve0/TiWEKt4yVmI/AAAAAAAAFz0/3qwnz9vKxmk/s128/P1000431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="96" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IdBDJ4h8ve0/TiWEKt4yVmI/AAAAAAAAFz0/3qwnz9vKxmk/s128/P1000431.JPG" width="128" /></a></div>
Enjoy viewing Berowra Creek from a distance that appears in front of you at a big flat rock.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2fsFe53lSpw/SKV1ETVZopI/AAAAAAAABPw/sECWodTnlU0/s128/P1000336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2fsFe53lSpw/SKV1ETVZopI/AAAAAAAABPw/sECWodTnlU0/s320/P1000336.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
Find a cairn on your left-hand side in about 2 minutes from there. <br />
Turn off main walkway from the cairn to rock shelf on your left, look over edge (eh?) and follow cairns down to Lost & Found Wall. <br />
(Can also be accessed from Faraway Wall, from the top turning right, instead of left along cliff top to gap in big cave, then down the hill. Sounds bush bashing.)<br />
<div id="ListLF">
</div>
<a href="" id="#ListLF" name="#ListLF"></a><br />
go to <a href="#FurnaceEnvironsArea">Furnace Environs Area</a><br />
go to <a href="#50mLeftoftheaccessgully">50m Left of the access gully</a><br />
<br />
go to <a href="#Rightoftheaccessgully">Right of the access gully</a><br />
go to <a href="#1stUpHill">1st Up Hill</a><br />
<br />
go to <a href="#Slab,Rightofbigcave">Slab, Right of big cave</a><br />
go to <a href="#2ndUpHill">2nd Up Hill</a><br />
<br />
go to <a href="#CarbonCreditsArea">Carbon Credits Area</a><br />
Routes described left to right (facing cliff).<br />
<div id="FurnaceEnvironsArea">
</div>
<a href="" id="#FurnaceEnvironsArea" name="#FurnaceEnvironsArea"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">
Furnace Environs Area</span></span></span></span></div></div><br />
The first few climbs are 300m L of the access gully. Scramble uphill onto ledge. <br />
<br />
○ Shoe Lizard 12m 17 <br />
Start at far left end of wall in little cave under block. Crawl up through hole then up good hand crack to ledge.<br />
Colin Larter 2008<br />
<br />
○ Great Balls of Fire 15m 22 Þ <br />
Sharp edgy face to bigger holds and ledge, then up through orange top section.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Apr 2007<br />
<br />
★ Solar Flare 15m 22 Þ <br />
Up pocketed face down low following flake at the top.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Apr 2007<br />
<br />
○ The Welsh Route 8m 10 <br />
Starts at R end of wall. Up cracks on left side of gully.<br />
Bryony Ruscoe 2007<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#ListLF">the top of Lost and Found Wall</a><br />
<br />
<div id="50mLeftoftheaccessgully">
</div>
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5838235978186806943&postID=5870615096006336800" id="#50mLeftoftheaccessgully" name="#50mLeftoftheaccessgully"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">
50m Left of the access gully</span></span></span></span></div></div><br />
○ Bumphlegm 10m 15 <br />
Start at base of big block 3m L of GH. Scramble up short chimney to top of block. Up seam to top.<br />
Colin Larter 2007<br />
<br />
○ Goblin Horde 10m 8 <br />
Chimney 1m L of LF.<br />
Colin Larter 2007<br />
<br />
○ Lactose Free 13m 16 4Þ <br />
Straight up featured face.<br />
Rod Wills, Nov 2007<br />
<br />
○ Ding Bat 11m 14 3Þ <br />
2m R of LF. Up juggy wall.<br />
Kevin Van Tilburg 2006<br />
<br />
★ Pig Shootin 15m 13 <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qC5fnzMlwk8/TiZOlSwqqNI/AAAAAAAAF0M/mwUOC03gbK4/s128/pigshootin13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qC5fnzMlwk8/TiZOlSwqqNI/AAAAAAAAF0M/mwUOC03gbK4/s128/pigshootin13.jpg" width="96" /></a></div>
Start 15m R of project past cave around corner. Up nice looking crack with bomber pro.<br />
Dale Tweedie, Feb 2004<br />
<br />
★★ Bummagedon 15m 20 5Þ <br />
Start 3m R of PS. Up steep scoops over bulge.<br />
Rod Wills 2005<br />
<br />
★ Tingles 16m 21 4Þ <br />
2M R of B and L of the crack. Directly up the wall.<br />
Jason Lammers 10-5-2008<br />
<br />
○ Kodak Moment 15m 15 <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3ASKlpCh2OM/TiZOmElvIDI/AAAAAAAAF0Q/XFCmlAJSUXw/s128/kodakmoment15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3ASKlpCh2OM/TiZOmElvIDI/AAAAAAAAF0Q/XFCmlAJSUXw/s128/kodakmoment15.jpg" width="96" /></a></div>
The nice looking crack.<br />
Elliot Braham, Feb 2004<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#ListLF">the top of Lost and Found Wall</a><br />
<br />
<div id="Rightoftheaccessgully">
</div>
<a href="" id="#50mRightoftheaccessgully" name="#Rightoftheaccessgully"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">
Right of the access gully</span></span></span></span></div></div>
<br />
○ Project - Vanessa 4Þ <br />
2m R of gully. Straight up face through ledge/cave to top.<br />
<br />
★ Dog Beta 15m 22(20) 6Þ <br />
From L side of small cave, step L at 2nd bolt, then up to ledge, then step R to shared anchors.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006<br />
<br />
★★ Dead Letter Office 15m 23(21) 6Þ <br />
Same Start as DB, straight up past L of small cave to lower offs.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006<br />
<br />
★ Lichen a Virgin Dog 15m 18 6Þ <br />
Same start as IADL, L at 1st bolt. Straight up above cave to shared lower off with DLO.<br />
Tony Tang 2006<br />
<br />
★ It's A Dog's Life 15m 19 6Þ <br />
Up middle of face just R of small cave, over ledge to slab.<br />
Rod Wills, Feb 2006<br />
<br />
★★ Foundling 15m 17 6Þ <br />
2m R of IADL, up past thin flake to arête.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006<br />
<br />
★ Lost Property 15m 15(17) <br />
2m R of F. Up obvious crack tending L to finish up arête of F.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#ListLF">the top of Lost and Found Wall</a><br />
<br />
<div id="1stUpHill">
</div>
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5838235978186806943&postID=5870615096006336800" id="#1stUpHill" name="#1stUpHill"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">
1st Up Hill</span></span></span></span></div></div>
<br />
★★ Woken Furies 10m 19 4Þ <br />
Start up hill, up steep wall on L of big cave.<br />
Rod Wills, Feb 2006<br />
<br />
○ STW 6m 18 3Þ <br />
3m R of WF in big cave. small roof to lower offs.<br />
Andrew Fell, Jul 2007<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#ListLF">the top of Lost and Found Wall</a><br />
<div id="Slab,Rightofbigcave">
</div>
<a href="" id="#Slab,Rightofbigcave" name="#Slab,Rightofbigcave"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">
<br />
Slab, Right of big cave</span></span></span></span></div></div><br />
The next three climbs are on slab Right of big cave. 2m apart.
○ Roxie and Matey Go Quantity Surveying 12m 20 5Þ <br />
Up slab to short steep headwall.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Jun 2006<br />
<br />
○ Scorpion 13m 18 6Þ <br />
Rod Wills, Mar 2006<br />
<br />
○ Broke Rib Mountain 12m 14 4Þ <br />
Rod Wills, Nov 2006<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#ListLF">the top of Lost and Found Wall</a><br />
<br />
<div id="2ndUpHill">
</div>
<a href="" id="#2ndUpHill" name="#2ndUpHill"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">
2nd Up Hill</span></span></span></span></div></div>
<br />
along the corner up the hill<br />
○ Worth The Walk? 6m 15 <br />
20m L of Bill. Obvious off width roof crack. Not the most glorious of routes, but fun little moves and surprisingly easy.<br />
Greg Hislop 9-8-2008<br />
<br />
○ Bill 10m 14 <br />
Wide flared crack. Mmmmm, sounds great!<br />
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006<br />
<br />
○ Ben 10m 17 <br />
2m R of Bill. Up crack, steepish start.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006<br />
<br />
the next three climbs are on slabs 20m further along past corner.<br />
○ Intelligent Design 9m 16 3Þ <br />
Mantle start, then straight up blunt arete.<br />
Rod Wills, Dec 2006<br />
<br />
○ Evolution 9m 17 3Þ <br />
2m R of arete. Up tending L to shared anchors. Stay off arete until 3rd bolt.<br />
Rod Wills, Dec 2006<br />
<br />
○ The Meaning of Life 11m 15 4Þ <br />
Straight up middle of slab.<br />
Rod Wills, Dec 2006<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#ListLF">the top of Lost and Found Wall</a><br />
<div id="CarbonCreditsArea">
</div>
<a href="" id="#CarbonCreditsArea" name="#CarbonCreditsArea"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">
Carbon Credits Area</span></span></span></span></div></div><br />
100m further along past big cave<br />
★ Farewell to Fear 13m 19 6Þ <br />
Start up on ledge R of big cave. Step L at 2nd bolt traversing L then up arete.<br />
Vanessa Wills, June 2006<br />
<br />
○ Fearless 12m 24 Þ <br />
Start off the block as for D. Takes the low traverse via tiny holds and pockets then thinly up to rejoin FTF at prominent horizontal break. Best protected by placing a long sling from the 3rd bolt after doing FTF.<br />
Vanessa Wills 2009<br />
<br />
○ Dendrobium 12m 18 6Þ <br />
Start for as FTF. Bridge up orange face to airy headwall. Do not use higher second set of lower offs as rock there could be unstable.<br />
Vanessa Wills 1-4-2006<br />
<br />
○ Ficus 12m 9 <br />
Up easy corner R of D. Sounds like another classic!<br />
Vanessa Wills 1-4-2006<br />
<br />
★★ Siliconciousness 14m 22 5Þ <br />
Start R of F on main face. Up past balancy flake following orange streak.<br />
Vanessa Wills 1-7-2006<br />
<br />
★★★ Carbon Credits 18m 24 7Þ <br />
5m R of S. Up thin face onto sharp arête and continue up to the top.<br />
Vanessa Wills 2007<br />
<br />
★★★ She Who Must Be Obeyed 20m 20 8Þ <br />
5m R of CC. Up middle of wall following obvious ramp.<br />
Rod Wills, July 2006<br />
<br />
★ Tickfest 20m 22 6Þ <br />
5m R of SWMBO. Hard start up through shallow cave to head wall.<br />
Vanessa Wills, June 2006<br />
<br />
★★ Aerospace 16m 18 5Þ <br />
2m R of T. Straight up faint arête tending L at the top. Slightly run out at the top.<br />
Vanessa Wills, June 2006<br />
<br />
○ Black Box 14m 21 5Þ <br />
2m R of A, straight up the face.<br />
Vanessa Wills 2007<br />
<br />
○ Wing Commander 12m 17 4Þ <br />
2m R of BB. Straight up the face on big holds. Shared lower offs.<br />
Vanessa Wills 2007<br />
<br />
★ ZoZo The Mandarin Fiend 15m 18 <br />
200m R of WC, past big cave. Up obvious R-leaning orange crack to top.<br />
Vanessa Wills, Anthony Geogheghan, 2007<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#ListLF">the top of Lost and Found Wall</a><br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#top">Top of Mt Kuring-Gai</a><br />
<br />
<div id="farawaywall">
</div>
<a href="" id="#farawaywall" name="#farawaywall"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">
Faraway Wall</span></span></span></span></div></div>
<br />
This is one of the best areas at MtK with good rock to 20m height. Also features a great outlook over Berowra creek. From Motocross Wall, opposite Dinosaurs Must Die, head downhill on a cairned path. Halfway down you will pass a large boulder on your left. At the cliff top turn left until you hit some rock ramps that will bring you to the right hand end of the climbing area.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310975/faraway%20wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="142" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310975/faraway%20wall.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
★ 1 Sapphire Bullets Of Pure Love 8m 12 2Þ<br />
Access is gained by walking around to left under chossy roof at far left of crag. Scramble up to top of block. Up middle of orange streak on great rock and holds.<br />
Jason Lammers 2007<br />
<br />
2 Birdhouse In Your Soul 10m 21 2Þ <br />
2m R of SBOPL. Stick clip 1st bolt and launch out and up, to finish as for SBOPL. Dont blow second clip as this could result in a grounder.<br />
Jason Lammers 2005<br />
<br />
3 Low Voltage 9m 18 2Þ <br />
On the next face. Up middle of face to lower offs at halfway.<br />
Rod Wills 1-11-2004<br />
<br />
★ 4 High Voltage 18m 24 6Þ <br />
An extension to LV, continuing straight up the face.<br />
Daniel Webster 21-4-2007<br />
<br />
★ 5 Death Adder 15m 19 X <br />
3m R of LV under roof. Through roof then step left to arete and up before traversing out right across lip of cave and up to anchors.<br />
Vanessa Wills 1-12-2004<br />
<br />
★★ 6 A New Way of Living 13m 20 5Þ <br />
5m R of DA. Up to R face to thread/bollard runner, step left across corner/crack to 1st bolt (hidden from ground - long draw). Follow juggy step face to anchors.<br />
Chris Yeomans 1-9-2005<br />
<br />
7 The Angry Goblin 15m 18 X <br />
Up corner crack/crack, under roof, finish at anchors for TDCOM. Be wary of loose rock when pulling on rock, belayer should wear a helmet.<br />
Colin Larter 1-12-2005<br />
<br />
★ 8 The Dark Con of Man 15m 22 8Þ <br />
3m R of TAG. Up middle face tending right at start through fun pumpy moves down low. Intially bolted by Rod who eventually admitted defeat and gave it to Vanessa!<br />
Vanessa Wills 1-4-2007<br />
<br />
★★★ 9 Vitruvian Man 20m 23 6Þ <br />
6m R of TDCOM. Up stepped arete to sit-down rest. Blast up and right past a dynamic move to reach scoop and up beautiful orange face.<br />
Stephen Hawkshaw 1-11-2004<br />
<br />
★★★ 10 The Memory Cathedral 20m 22 5Þ <br />
3m R of VM. Straight up right side of orange face and scoop to finish as for VM.<br />
Vanessa Wills 1-11-2004<br />
<br />
11 The Happy Goblin 10m 15 <br />
1m R of MC. Up corner/crack.<br />
Colin Larter 1-2-2006<br />
<br />
12 Kiss and Make Up 12m 22 4Þ <br />
1m R of THG. Straight up face between corner and cave.<br />
Greg Hislop 2007<br />
<br />
The Mischievous Leprechaun 10m 16 X <br />
2m L of PLC. Start in cave, swing up and out of cave then up crack. Very little protection for top half.<br />
Colin Larter, August 2009<br />
<br />
★ 13 Peruvian Love Child 10m 14 2Þ <br />
4m R of KAMU. Up left side of shorter wall, 2m R of cave.<br />
Rod Wills 1-11-2004<br />
<br />
○ Phyto-Bezoar 10m 9 <br />
4m R of PLC. Up juggy crack in middle of shorter wall.<br />
Vanessa Wills (solo) 1-10-2004<br />
<br />
★ 15 Chilli in Chile 8m 20 2Þ <br />
3m R of PB. Up thin face past pockets.<br />
Vanessa Wills 1-11-2004<br />
<br />
○ Istanbul (not Constantinople) 8m 16 2Þ <br />
3m R of CIC. Pocket to edge then up jugs. Nice moves. Add a grade if you're short.<br />
Jason Lammers 1-11-2004<br />
<br />
The Underworld<br />
A shortish slabby wall around 10m high with steeper stuff at the left hand end.<br />
At Faraway Wall as soon as you scamble down access cliff to base, head left along base of cliff for 50-100m then head straight down the hill. Alternatively if at Lost and Found just keep heading along cliff line for about 300m after Zozo. Either way its a bit of a bush bash.<br />
<br />
★ Summer Roll For Your Soul 8m 17 4Þ <br />
Up left side of weakness. Fun jug hauling and mantling.<br />
Kevin Van Tilburg 6-7-2008<br />
<br />
★ Hard Candy 8m 18 4Þ <br />
2m R of SRFYS. Up right crack, onto face at first bolt and straight up face.<br />
Rod Wills 6-7-2008<br />
<br />
○ Project - Dave 7m 3Þ <br />
4m R of HC<br />
<br />
○ Shrinky Dink 7m 14 3Þ <br />
1m R of crack up arete. Up crack stepping R onto face at 3rd bolt and up.<br />
Kevin Van Tilburg 6-7-2008<br />
<br />
★ Final Atonement 7m 18 3Þ <br />
2m R of SD, up blank face. Fingery start and top bouldery finish.<br />
<br />
○ Project - Kev 7m 3Þ <br />
5m R of FA, L side of shallow cave in middle of wall.<br />
<br />
○ Crapola 7m 16 3Þ <br />
10m R of Kev's project. L side of cave onto blank slab.<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
Rod Wills 24-8-2008<br />
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<div id="end">
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<a href="" id="#end" name="#end"></a></div>George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-30038132363243286742011-04-19T05:16:00.000-07:002012-07-27T20:02:55.678-07:00BangorTo enlarge pix or topo click them. They will be downloaded, and stored in your Media browser.
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<div id="top"></div>
<a href="" id="#top" name="#top"></a>
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#RightofNormalGully">Right of Normal Gully</a></span><br />
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#NormalGully">Normal Gully</a></span><br />
<br />
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#TheBlock">The Block</a></span><br />
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#GoGoGadgetArea">Go Go Gadget Area</a></span><br />
<br />
Jump to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="#Grandma'sArea">Grandma's Area</a></span><br /><br />
History<br />
<br />
In the early days, given how short the cliff is, most of the easier routes at Bangor were considered top-rope problems. The ethics of the day considered it poor form to bolt such short problems, so a small group of local climbers pursued the art of top-roping, including off the chockstone wedged halfway along the cliffline. Dave Humphries (Dr. Dave) got the bolts rolling during the early '80s. He experimented with loxons, dynabolts, even early versions of glue capsules but finally reverted to good old bashies, establishing a swathe of the crags classics, including: End of the Decade, Python and his business-generating Sports Injuries Clinic. It's fair to say that Dave very much led the way with a small group of locals, such as Peter Faill, Steve Turcsanyi, Dave Weekes, Peter Farkas, Glenn Short, a young Hayden Wallace and Rupert the original lunch-stealing slobbery dog all chipping in over the years. Fun in the shade and a cold beer on top of the cliff, watching the sunset over the Woronora River became the Bangor way. Attitudes changed a bit and by the end of the 80s all the old top-rope problems, and quite a few new harder ones, had sprouted protection and names. There are a few harder things at Bangor now, but the focus remains on light-hearted, sociable cragging. Bring the esky.<br />
<br />
Climbs are described right(R) to left(L), facing the cliff.<br />
<span style="background-color: clean;">Return to </span><a href="#Top" style="background-color: clean;">the top</a><span style="background-color: clean;"> of Bangor</span><br />
<div id="RightofNormalGully"></div>
<a href="" id="#RightofNormalGully" name="#RightofNormalGully"></a><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Right of Normal Gully</span>
<br />
These cool routes are at the far R of crag (when facing crag.)<br />
<br />
○ Arete Problem<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>V8<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
A square cut arête 80m R of TW.<br />
Joe<br />
<br />
○ Egg Rings<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>4Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Fun jug pulling up steep wall on R end of wall. Very well protected but has no lower-off. DRB at 3m back at the top.<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Whorl<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
At the far R-hand end of the crag, in the trees. Marked. A bouldery start leads to interesting climbing up a nice wall (be careful of the bridge of rock at half height). 4 BRs to double bolt belay.<br />
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Dorothy May<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m L of TW. Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay L up the juggy arête on carrots.<br />
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill<br />
<br />
There is a popular well chalked bouldering cave at the base of the crag here.<br />
<br />
○ Lean Too<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The deep crack 1m L of DM.<br />
<br />
○ Shire Riot<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>4Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The line of very shiny but dubious rings on R side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Shire Republic<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#Top">the top</a> of Bangor<br />
<br />
<div id="NormalGully">
</div>
<a href="" id="#NormalGully" name="#NormalGully"></a>
<span style="font-size: large;">Normal Gully</span><br />
<br />
The Normal descent gully reaches the base of the crag here.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMIS3haj9BEMJIhtpYbc1Mw1ZvHX9KvlpIECeQJF3bCLFgsy-OQFbTO70sDtF9jzhi6HGXu_GrMYHgc7Ur-KECITd8cinG5AcA32IEPIqByHYHYSTkeEdTh3QAME0MqWBq_LoUX68yQZQL/s1600/bangortopo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMIS3haj9BEMJIhtpYbc1Mw1ZvHX9KvlpIECeQJF3bCLFgsy-OQFbTO70sDtF9jzhi6HGXu_GrMYHgc7Ur-KECITd8cinG5AcA32IEPIqByHYHYSTkeEdTh3QAME0MqWBq_LoUX68yQZQL/s400/bangortopo2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
○ Rainman<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The low angled face 2m L of the descent gully. Up the face with no pro. There are TR bolts.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>NFM<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
5m L of Rainman, just under arete. Marked. Up to RB then Lwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top.<br />
<br />
○ Killer's Kidneys<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Marked "KK". 3m L of NFM.<br />
H. Wallace 1992<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pyromaniac<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Starts 3m L of KK. Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct for the tick.<br />
Matt Portman, Neill Crabb<br />
<br />
The next wall is well featured and very popular.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Dynamic Winter<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
On R-hand edge of bulging buttress L of P. Marked. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying R of AB. No pro until after the crux. Double BBs.<br />
H. Wallace 1992<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Andrew's Bulge<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>11m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
A Sydney classic! Start marked with painted hand. 1m L of DW. Rebolted 2009. The original bulging Andrew during the first ascent, "Be the rock".<br />
Andrew (I guess) and Peter Faill<br />
<br />
○ Get Tracked<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The crack 0.5m L of AB.<br />
G. Quinn (solo) 1985<br />
<br />
○ Side Tracked<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
0.5m L of GT. Seam (small wires) with small thread at top.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pitted Arete<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for ST. Up the crack then L up the R side of the rounded arete.<br />
Steve Turcsanyi 1987<br />
<br />
○ Mars Apple<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m L of PA. Marked T2. Desperate start. Rebolted 2009<br />
Steve Turcsanyi 1987<br />
<br />
○ Zulu Trainer<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m L of MA. Nice to the ledge then doddle to top. New bolts 2009.<br />
Steve Turcsanyi 1987<br />
<br />
○ Mike's Photogenic Crack<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12<br />
Corner crack L of ZT. Bouldery start then easy.<br />
Mike (I guess)<br />
<br />
○ Sports Injury Clinic<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21+<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.<br />
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill<br />
<br />
The climbs on the main wall get a bit confused from this point around to Python. My Girl and C are easy to locate (by the nice new bolts), but some of the others, who knows?<br />
<br />
○ Tits and Bits<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m L of SIC. 2 FHs.<br />
P. Farkas 1989-07<br />
<br />
○ Christmas Nuts<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m L of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney.<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#Top">the top</a> of Bangor<br />
<br />
<div id="TheBlock">
</div>
<a href="" id="#TheBlock" name="#TheBlock"></a>
<span style="font-size: large;">The Block</span><br />
The following five climbs are on the huge block in front (South) of the main wall.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Midway<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
On L side of the block if you stand between main wall and the block, and facing the block. The wall faces East. Hard start, then trending L, juggy to anchors shared with Farway.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Farway<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
4m L, 1 step down of Midway to start, trending R to anchors shared with Midway.<br />
<br />
○ Tilba Tilba<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
North side of the boulder, facing the main wall. Mantle then up. Easy but no pro.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Voodoo Traverse<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for TT. Traverse R to second corner ( above the finish of Monkey Bars), then up.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Death of a Black Boy<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
On R side of the block if you stand between main wall and the block, and facing the block. Above massacred black boy. Start as for Monkey Bars, out R through roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to Ubolts anchors.<br />
H. Wallace 1992<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Three Sides Traverse<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>V3 / V4<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
On the L-hand end of the downhill face. Traverse R following hand traverse line. Round corner and traverse uphill (crux). Round corner and traverse short low overhung section to finish in cave.<br />
Nick Clow 2003-07<br />
<br />
★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Monkey Bars<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Also known as Lucky's Roof. Monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to the lower offs.<br />
Unknown<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#Top">the top</a> of Bangor<br />
<div id="GoGoGadgetArea">
</div>
<a href="" id="#GoGoGadgetArea" name="#GoGoGadgetArea"></a><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Go Go Gadget Area</span><br />
(Back to the main wall.)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyAWLO1lOTV9XST7VrKcMN-PEy2RJTBrA7ExZzHeq1RA0Syxeowj2M5KK9sf6PLkNWpM8EH3vvtzkcnIkY6u-Pbv2dFI15RB5iXT27-3HWzjaVfRp0OFDcLi7wpzJ-oQ7i5IPSWPDAyl5d/s1600/bangortopo1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyAWLO1lOTV9XST7VrKcMN-PEy2RJTBrA7ExZzHeq1RA0Syxeowj2M5KK9sf6PLkNWpM8EH3vvtzkcnIkY6u-Pbv2dFI15RB5iXT27-3HWzjaVfRp0OFDcLi7wpzJ-oQ7i5IPSWPDAyl5d/s400/bangortopo1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fixed Steps<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>
The rounded arete 1m L of CN. Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs.<br />
Steve Turcsanyi 1985<br />
<br />
○ Go, Go, Gadget Arms<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<br />
Marked GGG. 2m L of FS, on R-hand side of blank wall. Thin and desperate moves up the wall. Top rope only, although Hayden did lead it.<br />
H. Wallace 1992<br />
<br />
★★ 3<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. R of MG and L of the original GGG, at vertical seam. Technical!<br />
Jason Lammers 2010<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>My Girl<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
4m R of In Depth. A thin boulder problem with bolts. 2 RBs to giant U.<br />
Trevor Cooper-Williams 1992-01-14<br />
<br />
○ C<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>??<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m L of MG. 3 manky BRs.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>D<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m L of C. 2 FHs to 2RB lower off - Good<br />
Chris Wallace 1992<br />
<br />
○ A Loving Hole<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Up wall on new RBs. Just R of corner crack. A little contrived but what did you expect?<br />
H. Wallace 1992<br />
<br />
○ Bangor Tiger<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for ALH. Traverse L and up. "How many micro routes can we squish in, tigger?"<br />
<br />
○ In Depth<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Corner crack 0.25m L of ALH.<br />
<br />
★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Arachnology for Kids Traverse<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>V4 / V5<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for ID. Traverse R to finish at arete of 'Fixed Steps'. Nick says "This boulder problem is a corker. It took quite a while (maybe 5 or 6 trips) from initially conceiving it, dabbling and then working on it to finally finishing off. I was so pleased with the quality of it in the end because the key sequence is both technical and sustained in difficulty."<br />
Nick Clow 2003-11-24<br />
<br />
○ Python Direct<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19+<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Just L of ID. 1 BR then runout to top.<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Python<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
1m L of PD. 2 FHs up the arete to double bolt belay.<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#Top">the top</a> of Bangor<br />
<br />
<div id="Grandma'sArea">
</div>
<span style="background-color: clean; font-size: large; white-space: pre;">Grandma's Area</span><br /><br />
★ Grandma's Python<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: L of P, R-hand side in cave. DRB<br /><br />
★ Grandma's Wheelchair<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start: 1m L of GP, on L-hand side of cave. Up then R past a BR and cam placements to a double bolt belay.
Dave Humphries<br />
<br />
○ Get Walking<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for GW but straight up.<br />
Steve Turcsanyi (solo) 1988<br />
<br />
○ Skulduggery<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<br />
2m L of GW at cave. Up past manky BR then awkwardly over bulge. Easily to top.
<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>End of the Decade<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>11m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<br />
Start below traverse line, 3m L of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete. 2 FHs and optional cam on low angled headwall. Double BBs.<br />
Dave Humphries<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>End of the Century<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<br />
A direct version of EOD past RBs to lower off. Good rock.<br />
Jason Lammers 2009<br />
<br />
○ End of the Line<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Start as for GC, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to RB and up flake as for EotC. Some trad gear needed.<br />
T. Meredith, D. Burgess 2011<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbDUBQ9NTk3twgTmcxQbS9rwuGWwlJdFg9ffMecx41QqJ6Mqs3MNwbFBt-I2XNFOw1coaEBiHaJN45GIDmwj0egyxtZd-Zdxpki0kdv8TU96nsxQ1rN53SsiUkFQMhLSQh1wk089OC8UaN/s1600/End_of_the_Century_Wall_Topo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbDUBQ9NTk3twgTmcxQbS9rwuGWwlJdFg9ffMecx41QqJ6Mqs3MNwbFBt-I2XNFOw1coaEBiHaJN45GIDmwj0egyxtZd-Zdxpki0kdv8TU96nsxQ1rN53SsiUkFQMhLSQh1wk089OC8UaN/s400/End_of_the_Century_Wall_Topo.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Grotto Crack<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<br />
Corner crack just L of EotD. Pleasant bridging up corner. 2 BRs out R or large cams.<br />
<br />
○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Buzz Boys Beat<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>9m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
0.5m L of GC. Up bulgy blocks. Take cams.<br />
P. Farkas 1989<br />
<br />
★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Zip<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<br />
4m L of BBB. Deceptive start, strenuous first clip (BR) then up easy wall past a 2nd BR. Double bolt belay.<br />
G. Quinn 1986<br />
<br />
○ Unzip<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<br />
2m L of Z under roof. Boulder R under roof then up as for Z.<br />
<br />
○ Billabong<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<br />
5m L of U in middle of wall. Thin wall climbing past 1? BR.<br />
G. Quinn 1986<br />
<br />
The second descent gully reaches the base of the cliff here.<br />
<br />
○ Ali<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
The jam crack 2m L of the descent gully.<br />
<br />
○ Slobbery Dog<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
Corner 6m L of A.Monument to Rupert, Peter Faill's black dog, who had a penchant for stealing climbers' lunches while they were on belay duty. If you have problems with the decent gullies, Rupert used to be able to run up and down them with ease.<br />
Peter Faill and Dave Humphries<br />
<br />
○ Rockclimber's Waltz<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>7m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X<br />
Marked. Up offwidth and (loose looking!) blocks. Two variants at top.<br />
<br />
○ Head Butte<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>6m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
4m L of RW. Ugly looking crack with reverse head jam.<br />
<br />
Return to <a href="#Top">the top</a> of Bangor<br />
<br />
<div id="end"></div>
<a href="" id="#end" name="#end"></a>
To enlarge topos click 'View web version' below 'Home.'George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5838235978186806943.post-38501309452347649352011-04-18T06:32:00.000-07:002011-08-12T07:01:24.372-07:00The Cathedral<div style="text-align: right;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 10px;">Updated on 22 July 2011.</span></span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 10px;">To enlarge topo or pic, click them. or view web version from the end this page. <a href="#end">Go to the end.</a><br />
</span></span></div></div><div id="top"></div><a name="#top" id="#top"></a><br />
go to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="#LeftSideofMainWall">Left Side of Main Wall</a></span><br />
go to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="#HeadInjuriesArea">Head Injuries Wall Area</a></span><br />
<br />
go to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="#HerculesWall">Hercules Wall</a></span><br />
go to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="#TCC">The Cathedral Cave</a></span><br />
<br />
go to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="#TarmacTraverseArea">Tarmac Traverse Area</a></span><br />
go to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="#RightHandSlabs">Right Hand Slabs</a></span><br />
<br />
go to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><a href="#AngelsButtress">Angels Buttress</a></span><br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;"></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><img height="320" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/cataxx.jpg" width="268" /></div><br />
Return to <a href="#top">Top</a><br />
<div id="LeftSideofMainWall"></div><a name="#LeftSideofMainWall" id="#LeftSideofMainWall"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">Left Side of Main Wall</span></span></span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/cathleftend.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/cathleftend.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"></span></span></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">○ Der Zauberlehrling (not in topo)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> 19</span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">The short corner/roof and slabby arete that the path ducks under before arriving at the C Slab ampitheatre. #1 friend or equivalent for crack/mantle then 1RB up the arete to loweroffs. Can scramble onto ledge from left and clip bolt if you don't have any friends.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Stu Dobbie, May 2011</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> Caesarean Section (open project)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> 22?</span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start below the boulder, 5m left of the Pointy Arete project. Up the slab past U bolts to lower off.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Has this been ticked (Insert your name here)</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">○ Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> 16</span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">The corner immediately left of the pointy arete.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Stu Dobbie, Gavin Critchley May 2011</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> pointy arete project<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> 22?</span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Pointy arete 6m R of CS</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Layback Corner<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start 10m right of CS, in a right facing layback corner that stops at 8m. Head up the corner to laybacking and kneebar past flare, stay right and up arete to anchor. Don't Jamb! May have been done before, tho' there were many loose flakes removed. Needs a bit of traffic. Bring thin to hand sized cams?</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">FRA Mikl Law 2011</span></span></div></div><br />
Return to <a href="#top">Top</a><br />
<br />
<div id="HeadInjuriesArea"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">Head Injuries Wall Area</span></span></span></span></div></div><a name="#HeadInjuriesArea" id="#HeadInjuriesArea"></a><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Head Injuries<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Walk down and right 20m and up to right facing corner crack</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Graham Fairbairn 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Young Bumblies<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Slabby classic. Climb H.I. and head left and belay on Ubolt. Up flake and steep wall (4 Ubolts). Lower off all the way to the deck</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Graham Fairbairn 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/cathedraltopo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/cathedraltopo2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Surface Paradise<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mikl 2011</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Surface Paradise DS<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Up seam right of Head Injuries and up arete to join Surface Paradise. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break..</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">mikl 2011</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The Dynamic Duo<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start 2m R of HI, just left of a wide crack. Head left up the flake and onto the steep wall. There 'may' be some bridging into the corner but can be done without at 23.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Kent Heffernan 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Jaded Cravings<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start 3m R of HI, in wide crack. Up the EZ arete. Gather your thoughts in a small cave, then bounce on to the wall and up using the crack at one point.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">David Barnes 1990</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Failure is your friend<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Follow Jaded Cravings till after the second bolt then head rightwards. After the big break head right and up. <br />
(Left hand bolts above break are another project.)</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Bundy 9/04/2011</span></span></div></div><br />
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<div id="HerculesWall"></div><a name="#HerculesWall" id="#HerculesWall"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">Hercules Wall</span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/Cathedral_Hercules2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/Cathedral_Hercules2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Anticoagulant<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Up corner 15m R of HI (confusingly marked SSS) to cave then left and continue up leaning crack bulge and on to top. Weird, funky fun.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Graham Fairbairn 1989 to bulge (which is probabaly the crux), Extension to top by mikl 1990</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bordella de Merde<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>27<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Open project. The 3 RB's to double RB lower off above Anticoagulant, a great line, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1991</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Expectorant<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start up corner as for Anticoagulant and Hercules then up through caves on jugs till you get spat off. V5 maybe?</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">mikl 2011</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Hercules<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>5Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Originally started as for Imogen, but extra bolts in that means most people missed the crux by bridging up groove and stepping left. Easier to start as for Anticoagulant in easy corner (with initials SSS for some reason!). Up, then step right and up line of bolts.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Kent Heffernan 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Hercules Direct Finish<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">From the top of Hercules, blast up the arete past hard move to slabby finish to lower off (rebolted 2008)</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1990</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Imogen<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start just left of Cathedral Cave. Straight up blunt arete. Way cool rock climbing.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Jason Lammers 5-11-2008</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">○ Fat Crack<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>30<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Wide squeeze chimney corner crack which may or may not have been climbed. Thrutchy!</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">○ Axe Grinder<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff to hanging belay off rings and old carrots. 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">David Barnes 1989-09</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bundy's Been Boltin'<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20 to the first lower off. The one move extension to the second lower-offs is 22. From here you can get into the wide crack and thrutch up then go right to join Axe Grinder at 23 (Cameron Taylor, The Shute).</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Jason Lammers 2007</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">The Cathedral Cave</span></span></span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i2JFVksIDYI/S2Vh2R0IT8I/AAAAAAAADnE/5QDWIRYDPYQ/s1600/31-01-10_1800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i2JFVksIDYI/S2Vh2R0IT8I/AAAAAAAADnE/5QDWIRYDPYQ/s320/31-01-10_1800.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">The large chossy cave located just here is called The Cathedral, and gives the crag its name.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Wacky Tabacci<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>19<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' pro, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The obvious chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chokstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Graham Fairbairn 1989</span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ikQVn8KBLng/Tif7dTqHuaI/AAAAAAAAF0k/UAugwmJ8_M0/s512/cathedral%252520_Wacky_Tabacci.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ikQVn8KBLng/Tif7dTqHuaI/AAAAAAAAF0k/UAugwmJ8_M0/s320/cathedral%252520_Wacky_Tabacci.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Retro Crack<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">The bolted crack line 5m rifght of WT and 1.5m left of Get Out of Town. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete, but a jamb or two may be needed. Could easily be lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts. The top half had previously been bolted, and probably traversed in from one the cracks on the right.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">FRA Mikl 2011 (but may have been done before on trad.)</span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/cathedral%20102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="320" width="240" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/cathedral%20102.jpg" /></a></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Rob Hodyl demonstrating how to climb wide cracks in the rain on Retro Crack.</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">The following two climbs cross each other at the pea pod at half height. A good variant is to start up V, step left to GOoT at about 5m and then follow it to the top.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Get Out of Town<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start on face 1m left of V. Hard off the ground to RB, and trad up to pea pod. Move right and clip Ubolt and chain on IG then right again to join line of RBs (about 2m R of crack) to lower off.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Kent Heffernan 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Vitez<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start: Below the obvious recessed corner crack.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Follow crack up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Up this and follow the crack to the top past some carrots.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">P. Farkas 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Vitez LH finish<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>17<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Step left onto flake above peapod and past 2 ring bolts to top</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">unknown</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Inchworm Groove<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>27<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Once the hardest trad line in The Shire/Sydney/NSW maybe. Start below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or on to top.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1990</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Ozone Action<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Sydney Classic trad route at the grade! Hard weird start. Take a few cams and slings. <br />
Start: Below the obvious water groove / flake feature. Follow the flake line / water groove past a two RBs, sling the spike (maybe hang some gear off it to keep it on) and throw in a cam (the bolts out left are tempting but may make your higher gear fall out), then either right up jugs for a few moves then back left, or straight up the flake. Cams then up flake and top wall (BR) to lower-offs or top out.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Graham Fairbairn 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Creature Feature<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Great moves on the top wall. You can sling the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a possible sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and up the thin slab and left again past left hand line of bolts to lower off.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Graham Fairbairn 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Gutterfingers<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off as for CF.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Vanessa Peterson 2011</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/cathslabtopo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/cathslabtopo2.jpg" width="164" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Jack and the Beanstalk<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Left of GW at tree. Up, using the suffering tree to start. 2 Ubolts and cam. Finish up one of the upper routes</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Christina Fairbairn 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">The next climb used to finish at the Tarmac Traverse. The tree that used to be climbed to gain the rock has now gone.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">○ Guerrilla Warfare<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>2Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Directly below CQ. Start used to involve the tree, but it's long gone, so the grade is probably much higher now. 2 BRs.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Kent Heffernan 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">○ Ghostrider<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">The short hard little problem under NN. Hard start to pocket then crimp your way to the chain under NN. Probably easier if your tall.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Jason Lammers 2006</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div>Return to <a href="#top">Top</a><br />
<div id="TarmacTraverseArea"></div><a name="#TarmacTraverseArea" id="#TarmacTraverseArea"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Tarmac Traverse Area</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">The following 5 routes all start from the Tarmac Traverse - the obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a belay / rap chain (clip the first bolt on CC as a runner). If it is crowded you could also belay from the ground below the intended route. The following four routes have new lower-offs, please use your own carabiners if top-roping to save wear and tear on the bolts.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">○ Aero Arete<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>13<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Just right of arete. Up, using pro to the left (as for the top of OA) or clip the bolts on ST.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Steve Turcsanyi 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Suicidal Tendencies<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Next route left. 3 Ubolts to lower off. Don't stray left or right!</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Graham Fairbairn 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Cathedral Quack<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Next line to the left. Up (3 Ubolts) to lower off shared with ST. Named for a group of ducks that used to frequent the crag.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Kent Heffernan 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Neuron Nerd<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Step right from the chains and up.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Graham Fairbairn 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Cosmic Cruncher<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>8m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>16<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>4Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">The right most line. Ubolts to lower off (shared with NN).</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Kent Heffernan 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Shoot That Dog<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>14<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">The chimney.Looks hard</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Kent Heffernan 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mushroom Mantle<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start below flake. Up the flake with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Graham Fairbairn 1989</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Cranking Like a Demon<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1990</span></span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="font-size: 15px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial; line-height: 17px;"><br />
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<div id="RightHandSlabs"></div><a name="#RightHandSlabs" id="#RightHandSlabs"></a><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial; font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">Right Hand Slabs</span></span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Extending away to the right of the main wall are a series of smooth slabs that seep a bit after rain. You can walk across from the main wall, or veer off right from the open grassy area further down the hill. Much harder and more powerful than they look. </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/Cathrightslabs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/download/attachments/1310837/Cathrightslabs.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Isis<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>23<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Start: 25m right of the main wall, Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1990</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Glacis<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>30<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">3m right of Isis. Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks to anchor.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1990</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Moss Ghyll Grooves<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall. Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy...</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1990</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Take me to the Tropics<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>11m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">A bit contrived, up MGG then move right and back left to anchors. Looks desperate!</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Cam Taylor 2008</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>In the Groove<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Right of MGG. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1990</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-
style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">There are 2 random old carrots high on this wall. Good luck!</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Legless<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">10m right of ITG. Stick clip high Ubolt and go through hard start, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre move at top.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1991-12</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">(A creek tumbles down the hill just here. There are 3 slab climbs on the Trauma Wall, slab climbing is hard work.)</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Spite<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>15m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>25<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece. Stick clip high Ubolt and go.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1990</span></span></div></div><br />
<div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Mr Squiggle<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite. Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors.</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">FRA Mike Law 1990, there were some 70's style bolts on this route</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">★★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Ms Pat<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>10m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">4m right of MS. Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80's it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts!</span></span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">Mike Law 1989</span></span></div></div><br />
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<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;"></span></span><br />
<div id="AngelsButtress"></div><a name="#AngelsButtress" id="#AngelsButtress"></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; line-height: normal;">Angels Buttress</span></span></span></span></div></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">The cliff goes up the hill (access scramble possible to top here), but walk horizontally right 40m to the next section of cliff.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Wire Brush and Dettol<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>20<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">FRA Mike Law, May 2011</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">○ <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>arete project<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>?m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>?<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">short arete 2m R of WB+D</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">project by ?</span><br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Tourniquet<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>21<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth, Stick clip BR at 4m. and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">FRA Stu Dobbie, May 2011</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">★★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Buffalo Bum<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>18<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Torniquet</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">Mike Law, May 2011</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">○ Supergroove (Stu project)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">○<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Coffin<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>24<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Þ<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Supergroove. aka Boffin in a Coffin.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">mikl 2011</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">Escaping the crack on Coffin</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">★<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>TweedleBum<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12m<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>22<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">Wide crack through roof 4m right of Coffin project. take a #4 camalot and a gardening glove if your fists are small.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;">Mikl Law june 2011</span></div></div><div style="font-size: 15px; text-align: left;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: helvetica, tahoma, arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"></span></span></div></div></div></div><div id="end"></div><a name="#end" id="#end"></a><br />
Return to <a href="#top">Top</a>George Kijirohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06432319715026433091noreply@blogger.com0