Access
To get there, park at the corner of Hartill-Law Ave and Fauna St in Earlwood and follow the obvious walking track into Girrahween Park. After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the track passes directly underneath the crag. Alternative access (possibly shorter) is from end the east end of this same track (marked TVT?) downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood. Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff.
Left Side Slab
About 20m above the walking track is this slabby buttress with the excellent bouldering traverse on the left side. The routes on the right slab are a bit of a mystery - bolted by unknowns in the mid 00s. These slab routes are all graded in the mid to high teens.
Mystery Slab A 13m ?
Boulder the start then out left through the contrived steepness.
Mystery Slab A Direct Finish 13m ?
Directly through the juggy headwall.
Mystery Slab B 13m ?
Ringbolts up the middle of the slab. Juggy finish.
Mystery Slab C 13m ?
Right most slab route on ringbolts.
Main Wall
The grid-bolted wall right next to the walking track.
A 10m 24? Þ
Hidden by thick fern growth 5m up left of the main wall. Out the short roof flake and up on ringbolts. Probably currently unclimbable due to vegetation. Grade in the mid 20s?
Peter Martin 1999
Mystery Climb 13 23? Þ
Brushed wall on slopers just left of chimney corner. Hard finish. Ringbolts.
Unknown 2009
★ Transfixed 12m 25 6Þ
Starts on left side of large roof. Boulder out roof then hand traverse right along lip past ringbolts then up subtle arete on FHs. You do the first half as a classic V4 boulder problem with a good spotter.
Saxon Johns 1992
★ Science of Imaginary Solutions 8m 21/27 3Þ
Start: Left most line on main face (about 4m right of T). 3 FHs. Free start was once 27 but appears to be more like V12+ now. Just stickclip and batman to first FH for the grade 21 version.
Peter Martin 1992
★★ Kaboodle 12m 23 Þ
Up Kaos, left and up and left and up to chains
Mikl Law 1980s
★★ Kaos 9m 23 3Þ
Excellent middle line on main face. Reachy start, weird horizontal dyno right and up flake to top. 3 RBs. Strongman Zac V once had to be rescued by passing tourists when he attempted to solo this!
Mikl Law 1970s solo (after many topropes)
★ Fascination Street 9m 25 Þ
Start as for Kaos. Right most line on main face with one very thin move. Sandbag?
A. Walters 1992
★ Cornered 9m 14
Excellent jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Trad from hand to offwidth.
B 10m 24 Þ
Straight up the bolted slab right of Cornered.
Peter Martin 1999
★★ Hopit 8m 23 3Þ
One of the best lines here. Square cut arete with thin technical climbing. FHs.
Mikl Law solo 1970's (after many top-ropes)
★ C 10m 23 4Þ
Contrived squeeze job. Head up H, then veer right to finish up CA.
Peter Martin 1999
Claw Away 9m 23
Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs of C appeared.
Mike Law (solo) 1987
★ Cornered Again 8m 15
A good trad route with excellent gear. Finger crack to start then stem up corner and out left on jugs to finish. U-bolt lower-off.
★★ Whistling in the Dark 9m 21 3Þ
Face just right of corner with ringbolts. Stepping into corner is cheating! Steep finish with tricky mantle.
Peter Martin 1992
★★ Meat Puppets 9m 22 Þ
Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!
Peter Martin 1992
★★ Warm It Up 9m 16 Þ
Another good easy route. Layback up subtle right facing corner flake then step right onto slab. Trad or clip a bolt on the route to the left.
Mikl Law solo 1970s
Payback 9 22
Thin face squeezed between flake and arete, clipping bolts on The Count.
Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson 2008
★★ The Count 9m 18 3Þ
Classy gritstone arete which is strenuous and technical. Finish up runout slab above. Ringbolts.
Mikl Law solo 1970s
★ Mystery Face 9m 18 3
Face right of arete on rinbolts with a tricky mantle. A popular little solo that was recently retrobolted by persons unknown.
Unknown 2009
Slabmaster Wall
20m right of the main wall is this wildly overhanging arete.
D 5m 18 X
A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock. The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.
★ Slabmaster 6m 22 X
This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped.
Mikl Law solo 1970s
Wuss in Boots Slab
20m right of SM is a prominent fin located up above the track.
Wuss in Boots 8m 14 X
Start at the left arete of the fin. Up the face just right of the arete to the top. No pro.
Will Monks (solo in hiking boots) 1997
E 8m 15 Þ
3m right of WiB. Hard start then up the slab, passing two gold coloured BRs to a double BB belay. Take wires for the bolts, since they're too big for normal bolt brackets.
Photo topos by Neil Montieth
