Earlwood

A popular and pleasant little south facing crag with the look and feel of English Gritstone. Excellent rock quality, easy top-rope setups and well bolted. Located above Wolli Creek in Earlwood. In addition to the following climbs, there is also an excellent 30m bouldering traverse located at the far left end of the crag. Most routes have been rebolted in the last five years.  (most require bolt plates).

Access
To get there, park at the corner of Hartill-Law Ave and Fauna St in Earlwood and follow the obvious walking track into Girrahween Park. After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the track passes directly underneath the crag. Alternative access (possibly shorter) is from end the east end of this same track (marked TVT?) downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood. Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff.

Left Side Slab
About 20m above the walking track is this slabby buttress with the excellent bouldering traverse on the left side. The routes on the right slab are a bit of a mystery - bolted by unknowns in the mid 00s. These slab routes are all graded in the mid to high teens.

Mystery Slab A 13m ?
Boulder the start then out left through the contrived steepness.

Mystery Slab A Direct Finish 13m ?
Directly through the juggy headwall.

Mystery Slab B 13m ?
Ringbolts up the middle of the slab. Juggy finish.

Mystery Slab C 13m ?
Right most slab route on ringbolts.

Main Wall
The grid-bolted wall right next to the walking track.

A 10m 24? Þ
Hidden by thick fern growth 5m up left of the main wall. Out the short roof flake and up on ringbolts. Probably currently unclimbable due to vegetation. Grade in the mid 20s?
Peter Martin 1999

Mystery Climb 13 23? Þ
Brushed wall on slopers just left of chimney corner. Hard finish. Ringbolts.
Unknown 2009

★ Transfixed 12m 25 6Þ
Starts on left side of large roof. Boulder out roof then hand traverse right along lip past ringbolts then up subtle arete on FHs. You do the first half as a classic V4 boulder problem with a good spotter.
Saxon Johns 1992

★ Science of Imaginary Solutions 8m 21/27 3Þ
Start: Left most line on main face (about 4m right of T). 3 FHs. Free start was once 27 but appears to be more like V12+ now. Just stickclip and batman to first FH for the grade 21 version.
Peter Martin 1992

★★ Kaboodle 12m 23 Þ
Up Kaos, left and up and left and up to chains
Mikl Law 1980s

★★ Kaos 9m 23 3Þ
Excellent middle line on main face. Reachy start, weird horizontal dyno right and up flake to top. 3 RBs. Strongman Zac V once had to be rescued by passing tourists when he attempted to solo this!
Mikl Law 1970s solo (after many topropes)

★ Fascination Street 9m 25 Þ
Start as for Kaos. Right most line on main face with one very thin move. Sandbag?
A. Walters 1992

★ Cornered 9m 14
Excellent jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Trad from hand to offwidth.

B 10m 24 Þ
Straight up the bolted slab right of Cornered.
Peter Martin 1999

★★ Hopit 8m 23 3Þ
One of the best lines here. Square cut arete with thin technical climbing. FHs.
Mikl Law solo 1970's (after many top-ropes)

★ C 10m 23 4Þ
Contrived squeeze job. Head up H, then veer right to finish up CA.
Peter Martin 1999

Claw Away 9m 23
Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs of C appeared.
Mike Law (solo) 1987

★ Cornered Again 8m 15
A good trad route with excellent gear. Finger crack to start then stem up corner and out left on jugs to finish. U-bolt lower-off.

★★ Whistling in the Dark 9m 21 3Þ
Face just right of corner with ringbolts. Stepping into corner is cheating! Steep finish with tricky mantle.
Peter Martin 1992

★★ Meat Puppets 9m 22 Þ
Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!
Peter Martin 1992

★★ Warm It Up 9m 16 Þ
Another good easy route. Layback up subtle right facing corner flake then step right onto slab. Trad or clip a bolt on the route to the left.
Mikl Law solo 1970s

Payback 9 22
Thin face squeezed between flake and arete, clipping bolts on The Count.
Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson 2008

★★ The Count 9m 18 3Þ
Classy gritstone arete which is strenuous and technical. Finish up runout slab above. Ringbolts.
Mikl Law solo 1970s

★ Mystery Face 9m 18 3
Face right of arete on rinbolts with a tricky mantle. A popular little solo that was recently retrobolted by persons unknown.
Unknown 2009

Slabmaster Wall
20m right of the main wall is this wildly overhanging arete.

D 5m 18 X
A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock. The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.

★ Slabmaster 6m 22 X
This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped.
Mikl Law solo 1970s

Wuss in Boots Slab
20m right of SM is a prominent fin located up above the track.

Wuss in Boots 8m 14 X
Start at the left arete of the fin. Up the face just right of the arete to the top. No pro.
Will Monks (solo in hiking boots) 1997

E 8m 15 Þ
3m right of WiB. Hard start then up the slab, passing two gold coloured BRs to a double BB belay. Take wires for the bolts, since they're too big for normal bolt brackets.

Photo topos by Neil Montieth

PHEGANS BAY – CENTRAL COAST

Mohamed (Main) Wall
Stuff Wall
Sweet Mamma Area
Mother's Buttress
In Between Areas
The Other End

Descent Gully
The short wall in the gully hosts the following climbs.

○ Problem 5m 22
Start: At right hand end of short wall. Boulder up rounded flakes. Top rope or solo only.
Paul Riviere (solo) 2002

★ Honey I'm Wet 6m 21 Þ
Start: At low flake. Move from low flake to slightly wet dominant pocket (I've heard people describe their wives this way!). Easily down climbed to clean. 3 BRs.
Richard Jeffrey 1996

★★ A 6m 22 Þ
Start: 2m left of HIW. Up past 3 BRs. Again best to down climb to save a lot of mess.
Gary Hamilton 1999

○ Mr Penetration 6m 15
Start: Below overhanging offwidth corner at left end of wall. A gutsy little climb. Straight up the corner.
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979

Mohamed (Main) Wall
Most of the climbs on the main wall had double BBs, however all have been maliciously damaged. They have since been removed and now await replacement. (Left to Right)

○ NS? 15m 16 Þ
Start: On left side of arete. Stem up the dihedral to start then follow arete to top. Fairly chossy. 4 BRs. DRB

★★ B 15m 20 Þ
Start: 4m right of arete. Straight up. A little runout.
Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn, Gordon Porter 2000

★★ Stingray 15m 15 Þ
Start: At obvious line up middle of left wall. Thin start but getting easier with height. 5 BRs. DRB (not suit to top belay)
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther, Steve Moss 1978

○ C 15m 21
Start: 2m right of S. Up. Paul Rivere's abandoned project.
Unknown 2000

★★ Rub a Dub 15m 21 Þ
Start: 2m left of M. Up passing 4 BRs. A #3.5 friend keeps the rope out of the way to start. Tree belay; 6m back from the belay edge.
Richard Jeffrey 2000

○ Mohamed 15m 15
Start: Below large crack that splits the main wall. Up the crack.
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther, Steve Moss, Scott Hoy 1978

★ Wiggle it Just a Little Bit 15m 21
Start: 2m right of M. 4 BRs and mid sized friends.
Richard Jeffrey 1999

★★★ Sharon Stone 15m 19 Þ
Start: 2m right of WiJaLB at huge pocket. Even looks like a great route! 6 BRs.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996

★★★ Phoenix 15m 19 Þ
Start: As for SS. Nice moves make a classic face climb at the grade. 6 BRs.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 1996

★★★ HS? 15m 15 Þ
Start: 2m right of SS / P. Around small bulge then straight up easy ground. Well protected with 5 BRs. DRB on face.

To the right of HS a route awaits rebolting after unsightly and mysteriously appearing ring bolts were removed from a line which had just been drilled for hex heads. This action regrettably led to a bit of malicious retaliation with the damage to all belay bolts on this wall.

★★ Opium 15m 20
Start: Below right side of blunt arete at north end of Mohamed Wall. Named for what you'd need if you miss the first clip. 3 BRs, #3.5 friend and wires.
Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere 1996

○ Chips Ahoy 15m 17 Þ
Start: 4m right of O. They needed a lot of cleaning to unearth this one. Up through suspect rock passing 5 BRs.
Kye Riddington 1999

○ Show Bag 13m 18 Þ
Start: 4m right of CA. Up to the left, behind tree. 4 BRs.
Gary Hamilton 1999

○ Gastric 13m 21 Þ
Start: As for SB. Up SB then veer right, the back left to rejoin SB to finish. 4 BRs.
Gary Hamilton 1999

Stuff Wall
Parrallel to Mohamed Wall but some 20m to the north west is a short wall.

○ Vagination 5m 9
Start: Below short corner at left end of Stuff Wall. Up corner.
Scott Hoy (solo) 1978

○ Hard Stuff 7m 19 Þ
Start: On small boulder in centre of wall. Up centre of wall, fingery holds with a few good jugs lower down. 3 BRs to double BB.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith, Jenny McClaren 1996

○ D 7m ?? Þ
Start: At right end of Stuff Wall. Up through chossy cave then veer left. 2 BRs.
Shane, Gary Hamilton 2001

○ E 7m ??
Start: As for D. Straight up. 1 BR, small friends.
Shane, Gary Hamilton 2001

2nd access gully
(about 15m right of Stuff Wall).

Sweet Mamma Area
About 60 - 80m north of Stuff Wall is another short slabby wall with a few gems. At the centre of this area is "Sweet Mamma" the obvious wide overhanging chimney.

○ F 7m 21 Þ
Start: Below right side of blunt arete (20m left of Sweet Mamma). Up right side of blunt arete passing 2 BRs and 1 RB. Take care with opening gate on second runner.
Shane 2002

○ G 5m 12 Þ
Start: 3m right of F. Hard start then eases off. 2 BRs to double BB.
David Forbes 2002

○ H 5m 6 Þ
Start: 6m right of G. Up easy slab. 2 BRs to double BB.
David Forbes 2002

★★★ I 6m 17 Þ
Start: At slabby blunt arete. Nice little climb. 2 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2002

★ J 6m 17 Þ
Start: 2m right of I. Nice thin slab then over bulge. 2 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2002

★ K 6m 15 Þ
Start: 3m right of J. Another a little gem! Thin slab then over bulge. 3 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2002

○ L 5m 16 Þ
Start: 2m right of K. Dirty slab. 2 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2002

○ Sweet Mamma 8m 12
Start: To the right of the obvious, wide, overhanging chimney. Up steep wall and overhanging chimney.
Phil Stallard, Scott Hoy 1978

○ M 10m 16
Start: As for SM. Straight up left side of obvious large bulging block. 3 RBs (last needs long runner) to double BB.
Shane 2002

★★★ N 10m 18 Þ
Start: At obvious tree stump. Centre line up block and over bulges. 3 RBs (third needs long runner) to double BB.
Shane 2002

★★ O 10m 22 ÞX
Start: Below right line on block. up chossy undercut (take care) to first high clip, then up over bulges. Watch the tree behind you. 2 BRs and 1 RB.
Shane 2002

20m further right on the same upper terrace after the large rotten cave is the following very short route.
Staying on this terrace will get you to another scramble access up to the cliff top track. Head right along this to get to the carpark.
About 80m further north of this climb, a few very short bolted routes have been established on some very suspect rock (take care!). Details unknown.

○ P 4m 14
Start: 20m right of O. 2 BRs and 1 RB.
Shane 2002

Mother's Buttress
The following areas and climbs are to the south of the major Descent Gully.

★★★ Inbreeds in the Midst 10m 18 Þ
Start: At the arete at the very base of the gully. Straight up on jugs. Walk down left on ramps, or round out the top and off. 3 BRs to double BBs in back of cave.
Richard Jeffrey 2002

○ Mother's Choice 15m 11
Start: Left of IitM. Wandery. Up leftward ascending slab onto ramps, then up and right to last overhang. Muscle over this to top.
Phil Stallard, David McGrouther, Iam Williamson, Steve Moss and A. Fraser 1978

In Between Areas
To the south of Mother's Buttress the cliff breaks into small narrow nondescript gullies. Most of the obvious cracks located in the rear of these gullies were climbed by the Wondabyne Climbers in the late 1970s. Their lines are used here to locate and describe the more recently established climbs.

○ Roundabout 8m 14
Start: At high corner about 20m left of MC. up in high corner, then break out left onto wall and up slab above.
Phil Stallard, Steve Moss 1978

★★ Knife Edge 8m 17
Start: As for Roundabout. Veer left to arete. #2.5 friend protects start then 3 BRs to triple BB belay. Retrobolted by David Forbes and Gary Hamilton, 2002.
Gordon Porter 2000

○ Q 6m ?? Þ
Start: Right side of Roundabout Gully. Straight up past 3 BRs to double BB belay.
Gary Hamilton, David Forbes 2002

★ Little Roof Riding Hood 8m 18
Start: 3m right of Roundabout. Clip BR to start, right over ledge then upward right through juggy overhang. 1 BR, 2 RBs and #0.5 friend below top.
Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith 2000

★ R 10m 17 Þ
Start: Around arete 4m left of Roundabout. Through chossy start then straight up steepening slab. 4 BRs to triple BBs.
Gary Hamilton, David Forbes 2002

○ Spalding 10m 11 X
Start: At rotten roof left of Roundabout, with black corner above. Delicately up frail holds under roof. Over this then follow bulging corner to top.
Phil Stallard, Steve Moss 1978

○ S 10m 12 ÞX
Start: 3m left of Spalding. Around bulge on frail holds then up slab to left. 4 BRs.
Shane 2000

○ Grandmother Crack 10m 7
Start: 7m left of S, at next corner. Easily up corner.
David McGrouther (solo) 1978

○ The Mysteron 12m 12 X
Start: At overhanging groove, 6m left of GC. Up groove, right up walls to top. Take care of loose blocks suspended by tree.
Scott Hoy, David McGrouther 1978

○ The Catalyst 10m 11
Start: At corner 6m left of TM, just past rotten cave. Up groove then onto wall. Left into corner then follow your nose to the top.
Scott Hoy, Phil Stallard 1978

The Other End
About 100m south of Mother's Buttress is another area hosting several quality routes. The area described starts from the obvious gully of "The Little Grotto" with a smooth black slab on its left side.

○ The Little Grotto 10m 10
Start: At obvious large corner 12m left of TC. Up corner and grovel left at the top.
Scott Hoy, David McGrouther 1978

○ T 10m 21 Þ
Start: 2m right of TLG. Up thin wall. 4 BRs.
Shane 2000

○ U 8m 15 ÞX
Start: 4m right of TLG. Wandery and brittle, take care. Veer right toward arete then up left to belay. 3 BRs to double BB.
Shane 2000

★★ Sabotage 8m 18 Þ
Start: 3m left of TLG. Up nice slab. 3 BRs to double BB. This line was drilled minimally by Grant Severn immediately before the appearance of the final line.
Shane 2000

○ V 10m 15 Þ
Start: Down left below blunt arete. Up around bulge and up final dirty ramp / slab. 3 RBs to double BB.
Unknown 2001

★★ W 12m 15 Þ
Start: 4m left of V. Juggy. Up wall and slab to finish, then traverse right to belay as for V. 3 RBs.
Unknown 2001

★★★ Gordo's Climb 12m 16 Þ
Start: 3m left of W. Straight up wall and slab above, traverse right to belay as for V / W. 3 BRs.
Gordon Porter 2002

★★ X 12m 16
Start: 2m left of GC. Straight up steep slab passing 3 BRs.
Kye Riddington 1999

The next climbs are about 20m south of "The Little Grotto". "Wet 'n' Wild" (a large dirty and often wet crack) is a good landmark.

★★★ Debbie Does Dynos 12m 22
Start: 2m right of WnW (below). Over bulge. Gnarly second clip if you're short. 2 RBs, 1 BR, #1.5 friend below top.
Richard Jeffrey 1999

○ Wet 'n' Wild 12m 14
Start: At obvious large, dirty and often wet crack. Bring a range of friends and some absorbent cloth.
Gordon Porter, Jeff Connelly, Grant Severn, Richard Jeffrey 1999

★★ Chicken Nuggets 12m 18 Þ
Start: 1.5 left of WnW. Veer left then straight up. A little over protected with 7 BRs. This climb seems to have been retro-bolted with the appearance of several very large ring bolts. The original bolts have not been removed.
Kye Riddington 1999

About 10m left of the large ground level block next to Chicken Nuggets is a short slabby wall with the following routes.
The Wondabyne Climbers indicate that several other solo routes and boulder problems were established in this area, however none were described as the climbs are very short and nondescript.

○ Slabs Inc. 10m 10
Start: At left juggy side of the steep slab. Trend up slabs past tree and more slabs to top.
Phil Stallard, I. Dymock, I. Jones 1979

○ After You 10m 11
Start: 10m left of SI. Up steep wall.
Dave McGrouther, Phil Stallard (solo) 1979

○ Then Me 10m 10
Start: 2m left of AY. Straight up wall on good holds.
Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979

○ Suburbia Street 12m 10
Start: 6m left of TM at tree growing out of crack. Straight up crack and overhang above.
Phil Stallard (solo) 1979

Southwest Barrenjoey

go to Right Side
go to Right Side Upper

go to Left Side
go to Crack of Dawn

go to Midden Area
go to Pledge a Legend Wall

go to Insomnia Cave Rock
go to Strangler's Corner

Go to the end

Introduction
A very popular crag located on the south western side of the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.

Access
From the carpark step over to Station Beach (on the estuary side of the peninsula). From here the crag can be seen poking out through the trees, low down on the left hand side of Barrenjoey. Walk 200m to the northern end of the beach (continue past the scattered rocks at the end of the beach) and pick up a single walking track that heads away from the beach, just past the red shed and the lighthouse track (don't head up the lighthouse track!). Follow the track up around the corner of the fence (past a white house), then continue along it for about 100m. Take the first major track off to the right - this meets the cliff directly below the Jezebel block. There is also a large boulder down near the waterline that has a couple of old bolts on it. If anyone has any information I'd love to hear it! Please take care of the place: carry out your own (and other people's) rubbish, stick to the existing tracks and make use of the numerous lower offs and rap points rather than trashing the descent gullies. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here. Crag was rebolted by the SRC in 2009.
Climbs described right to left (east to west), facing the cliff.

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Right Side

The area of cliff heading off to the right (east) from where the track meets the cliff. Nowhere near as popular as the rest of the crag.
Two sandy caves (the "Barrenjoey Hilton") are located just here.

Evil Spuds 6m 14
The overhang.

Gollum's Grope 4m 12
The offwidth.

Pyroclean 4m 7
The chimney.

Zodiac's Pure Vegetables 8m 22
Start: 10m right of H. Up the wall and seam.
Craig D. Martin 1984-02-09

The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together.

Haircut 4m 13
The offwidth.

Solipsism 4m 13
The arete.

Manteau 4m 12
The wall.

Speleolie 4m 9
The crack.

Feetus Position 4m 9
The offwidth.

Exit Tortons 10m 5
3m right of A, below chimney.
Used as a descent route.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

The Great Roof Left Hand Eliminate 8m 19
Start: Start on the ledge under the obvious big roof above the descent route ET. Up the chossy corner to roof. Hand traverse L to arete, up to DBB anchors.
FTRA: Mike Garben 2003-03-01

Long Neck 7m 20
Start: Scramble up then start on block around the arete L of the Great Roof.
Up middle of wall to DBB on top of the roof.
FTRA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003-03-01

Albatross 12m 14 X
Start: 5m right of FF.
Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-09

Frog's Fling 13m 17 X
Start: 1m right of K9.
Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17.
Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1982

K9 10m 17
Start: 2m right of R.
Up the flaring finger crack.
T. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-04

Ratbite 10m 11
Start: Below obvious corner 2m right of WG.
Up the corner.
Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan, Martin Jones 1983-07-04

★ Wild Gravity 12m 21
Start: 2.5m right of TMMDF, below thin flake. Up flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right.
Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin 1983-09

Tchaikovsky Makes My Dog Fart 7m 22
Start: 1.5m right of PWCB.
Variant start to PWCB. Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB.
Mike Law, Craig B. Martin 1985-11-19

★★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket 18m 16
Start: At short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.
Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-07

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Right Side Upper

A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and to the right of PWCB.

★★ Cranky 7m 20 Þ
Start: Marked, on the boulder above and 15m right of PWCB.
Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

A (Open project) 8m 25+?
The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are inappropriate expansion types and should not be trusted.

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Left Side

The track reaches the base of a huge block just here. Scramble left and up to the base of the main cliff. The following 3 climbs start on top of the block.

Millie 11m 10
Start: 2m right of J. Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB.

★★ Jezebel 11m 9
Start: On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack.
An excellent route for beginners. Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

Two Steps Forward 11m 13
Start: As for J. Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J.
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1982-11

Carrie Bradshaw 12m 14
Start: 2m left of TSF. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (#0.4 and #0.75 / #1 Camalot) in breaks to a double BB belay.
Niall Doherty 2003-06-08

Starboard Barnacles 12m 14 Þ
Start: Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree). Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.
Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey 1984-06-03

Elf Town 12m 14 X
Start: Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay.
Dave Stuckey, Johan Verhagen 1984-06-03

Judgement Day 14m 14
Start: 2m left of ET. Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

★★★ Enterprise 15m 18
Start: 2m left of JD. 4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-06

★ Enterprise Variant 15m 17
Start: As for E. Follow flake on right at top.
Craig D. Martin, Craig B.Martin 1983-06


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Crack of Dawn

★ Crack of Dawn 15m 15
Start: 2m left of E, at obvious bum crack. Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

Arachibutyrophobia 15m 20
Start: 1m left of CoD. Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.
Peter Ward 1986-06-08

★★ Liquid Insanity 15m 18
Start: 1m left of A. Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.
Glenn Robbins

★★ Marsupial Smearer 18m 18
Start: 1m left of LI. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).
Captain Black

★★ I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For Piker's Variant 18m 18
Start: Marked "ISF". 2m left of MS. Head up wall on right side of rounded arete (cam down low, 2 BRs). Up to crack of MS, and follow this (2 BRs on bulge to left) to break. Up over the block (BR) to belay as for MS.

★ I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For 18m 21
Start: As for ISHFWILFPV. At crack of MS, continue straight up over bulge (2 BRs), staying out of the crack.

Domino 15m 14
Start: Below corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF. Up the corner crack past chockstones, getting harder with height.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

Tropico 15m 15
Start: Marked "AT". 2m left of D. Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO).

★ Cramp Ons 16m 18
Start: Below wall, 2m left of T. Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

★ Wild Ride 16m 16
Start: Marked. 2m left of CO. Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO.

The next climb starts below the south east face of the large boulder teetering on top of the crag above the Wild Ride area (obvious from beach).

★★ Long Flower Noodle 7m 23
Start: Start below middle of face. Up to thread, traverse a bit R then up. DBB.
FTRA: Mike Garben, Jo Maude 2003-01-23

Back to ground level. For all routes from here to HTS descend using the double RB rap anchor above HTS.

★ Hang Over 12m 9
Start: Below crack 1m left of WR. Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

Womb To Tomb 12m 17
Start: 1m left of HO below bulge. Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).
Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-11


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Midden Area

The following 5 climbs are located above an aboriginal midden that NPWS is trying to protect. Please minimise your impact in this area!

★ Cosmic Ecology 12m 14

Start: 2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack. Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

Cosmic Ecology Variant Start 5m 15
Start: 1m left of CE. Up to join CE.
Craig D. Martin

Lurgi Meets Plate Tectonics 12m 17
Start: As for CEVS. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB.
Craig B. Martin 1983-06

Ways Of Our Lives 15m 22
Start: Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam. Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT.
Mike Meyers, David Hains 1984

Squid Vicious 12m 20
Start: As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential").
Mike Meyers, M. Toakley 1983-06-29

★ Computer Sox 7m 14
Start: 3m left of SV. Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.
Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-11

Cythaul Haul 12m 10
Start: Crack left of CS. Up the crack.

Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity 6m 14
Start: 2m left of CH. Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.
Martin Jones

Sacrilege 4m 12
The Offwidth left of HTS.

The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again 10m 19
Start: Below arete, 1m left of S. Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay.

Benign 10m 20 Þ
Start: 4m left of tPBSA. Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-08-12

Benign Variant Finish 10m 16 Þ
As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish.

Been There, Done That 10m 7
Start: Chimney left of B. Chimney into the bowels of the earth.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

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Pledge a Legend Wall

A good looking wall with a selection of fine routes.

★★ Central Pillar of Mordor 14m 19
Start: Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.

★ Orgasmic 15m 11
Start: Below chimney left of CPoM. Up the chimney (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

★ Sand Syringe 15m 18 X
Start: 3m left of O. Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.
Craig B. Martin, N. Moran 1984-07-01

★ Not Your Average Cab Sav 15m 19
Start: 2m left of SS. Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-22

★★ Pledge a Legend 16m 14
Start: 1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall. Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

Borcat Blues 16m 18
Start: 2m left of PAL. Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL.
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-07

Tangerine Dream 15m 16
Start: 2m left of BB. Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

Cobwebs 15m 18
Start: 2m left of TD. Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD.
Peter Ward, Trevor Carlos 1986-06-17

Celluloid Heroes 10m 10
Start: 8m left of C. Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

Nightingale 10m 7
The chimney left of CH.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

Pox Travels Fast 12m 16
Start: Just left of N. Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB.
Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin

Pinnacle of Peril 16m 15 X
Start: Below arete left of PTF. Straight up exposed and unprotected arete.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

★ Super Exciting Xylophone 16m 21
2m left of PP. Popular. Thin crux up wall (BR) and through overlap then up airy, easy (grade 15) pinnacle (BR, cams, threads). Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however).

Intoxicating Liquor 15m 9
Start: Left of SEX, below crack. Up crack then up chimney above that.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

★ Little Plaything 15m 19/20
Start: 1m left of IL. Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard.

★ Anti Scuttler 15m 18
Start: In very shallow corner left of LP. A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP.
Martin Jones, Craig B. Martin 1982-09-12

★★ Sweet Heart 12m 22
Start: Just left of AS. Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB.
FTRA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003

Facet 15m 15
Start: Left of AS, below wide crack. Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

Crack 'n' Up 17m 8
Start: Below offwidth 2m left of F. Up the "lovely" offwidth.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.

★★ Mescalito 12m 19
Start: 2m left of CnU below thin crack. Thin start then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.

★ Mode 14m 16
Start: 2m left of M. 3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.
Warwick Williams, Kevin Melville 2003-10

Abseil Wall 14m 16 X
Start: 2m left of M. Start:2m left of M at seam. Wall and Crack trending left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s

★ Pan Pacific Wall 14m 16
Start: 2m left of AW. Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay.

★ Long Line of Leanings 15m 19
Start: Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW.
Craig B. Martin, Mike Law 1985-12-08

Wrong Line of Leanings 15m 22
Start: Start in left side of LLoL cave. Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge.
Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003-01-15

★★ Pulse of Fools 12m 25 Þ
Start: 5m left of LLL. Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.
Mike Law 1985-12-02

Suer 6m 10
Start: Below corner crack left of PoF. Up the crack.

Krill 6m 13
The offwidth left of S.

Ikon Direct 10m 19 Þ
Start: Below middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-22

Ikon 10m 17 Þ
Start: As for ID. Silly. Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up.
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1984-06

Rays Moppy 10m 11
Start: Marked M, 10m left of I. Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay.
Ray Haak, John Shaw 2005-07-16

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Insomnia Cave Rock

A huge boulder located above and behind Ikon, with an obvious chossy cave.

Observatory 10m 15
Start: 5m right of cave. Over bulge to ledge then up crack to double BB.
Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones 1983-07-25

Leon the Klepto Cat 12m 19 X
Start: At right hand edge of cave. Once a test piece. Straight up to small cave then trend left using underclings and bridging (BR) to crack through roof of cave. Up to break (cams) then over bulge and up slab (minimal pro). Double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1983-02-16

★ Tillies and Triangles 10m 23
Start: 4m left of LtKC. Up arete to lip of cave (BR). Crank straight up over lip and continue up blank slab (2 BRs). Double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin 1984-09-22

Orbs Dilated Glory 10m 12
Start: 3m left of TaT. Straight up wall.
Craig B. Martin (solo)

No Sorry it Makes Me Fart 9m 14
Start: 2m left of ODG. Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission.
Mark O'Sullivan, Ray Haak 2004-05

Baby Steps 9m 10
Start: As for NSiMMF. On top of bulge step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam to double BB belay.
Niall Doherty (self belayed, badly - does that make it a solo?) 2005-10-16

More Tea Vicar? 8m 11
Start: Below the blunt arete a few metres left of BS. Up arete (natural pro) to double BB belay.
Mark O'Sullivan, Ray Haak 2004-05

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Strangler's Corner

A short west facing wall located about 75m around past Insomnia Cave Rock and lower down. Distinguished by bright orange rock.
It's unclear whether these climbs are described right to left or left to right. Still, it's worth wandering around and taking a look, since the rock is pretty good.

Home Made Jamb 7m 10
A shame it's so short. Up the lovely layback crack.

Seller's Pirate 4m 8
The crack.

Never a Frown 4m 13
The wall.

Inertia 4m 11
The crack.

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Berowra

To enlarge topo or pic, click them. or go to Web Version from the end this page. Go to the end.

climbs are described left to right (East to West/Noth to South), facing the cliff.

go to Ladder of Gloom Area
go to Cave of Soap Area

go to The Blackboard Area
go to Glamorpus Area

go to Glamorpus Wall Proper
go to Bullet Hole Wall

go to Positive Ape Factor Area
go to Wall Thing Area (South-end/West-end)

East Buttress (Pimple Buttress) Area

The good looking bulgy orange buttress just left of the eastern descent gully.

○ A 10m 17 X
Left of P somewhere. Marked. A poxy boulder problem. No pro?

★ Pimple 10m 19/20
Between A and IFY. Marked. Good climbing up to and through the roof (1 BR, 1 RB), and easier but still pleasant up the crack in the headwall (natural protection). Tree belay back from the edge.

★ Look Blue Go Purple 10m 18 Þ Start in scooped alcove right of P. Through gap in the scoop then follow RBs to the apex of the wall. 3 RBs to double RB lower off.
Chris Yeomans, Dale Tweedie 2005-05-25

★ It's For You 10m 18 Þ
Good moves up the wall right of P (2 BRs to 2 RB lower off). The climb stays to the right, using the arete. An extra BR is located high up, in the centre of the face (left of the climb) for an alternate finish.
Mike Law (solo) 1980s

★ Taylor Made 6m 15 Þ
Up and right of IFY. Jugs past 2 FHs. Although Julian reckons it's pretty poxy, everyone else reckons it's a great little warm up!
Julian Anderson
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Ladder of Gloom Area

The descent gully arrives here. It is located 50m south of Pimple Buttress

○　Savage Cabbage 8m 19
5m left of CC, and 30m right of descent gully. Up thin crack then tricky moves left to main crack. Follow this (take care with pro) to new lower off. Often dirty and sometimes inhabited by a (friendly) brown snake.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

○　Stone Grotties 8m 16 X
2m right of SC, just left of CC. A dangerous lead or dirty toprope up the filthy wall.

The next route is often used as an ascent / descent.
○　Cenotaph Corner 8m 4
The slabby corner crack right of SG.

○　B 9m 25+ X
2m right of CC. Blank wall straight up past two BRs with desperate moves to clip the second BR and move past it, or very easily stepping right.
Mikl Law 1980s

★★★ Ladder of Gloom 12m 19 Þ
Very popular. 10m right of CC. Traverse right to the bottom of the ladder then steeply up. 4 RBs (take care clipping the first) to double RB lower off.
Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s

★ Ladder of Death 10m 22 Þ
Start directly below the LoG. Clip RB, big steep dyno to jug then short, strenuous arete (RB). Move left to 2nd RB on LoG and up.

★★★ The Mantle Machine 12m 14
Demoralising for short-arses. Starts 4m right of LoD (just past the low roof with the hole). Move diagonally left mantling overhangs. Take a friend for a horizontal slot, with a BR higher up. Finish just right of LoG.
Hayden Brotchie, N. Timms 1993-09-12

★ Medium Strip 10m 20 Þ
Start as for TMM. Follow the 4 gold FHs up the rounded arete.
Julian Anderson 1998

○　C 12m 4?
5m right of MS. Up the low angled slab to the obvious ramp (BR). Has been mistaken as an ascent / descent route!
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Cave of Soap Area

The big rounded cave with the distinctive overhanging corner crack (Soap), 30m or so right of TMM.

○　Sumo 18m 23 Þ
Wall on left side of the Cave of Soap. Stick clip first RB, then traverse left along the lip of the roof past 7 more RBs to a double RB lower off at the end of the roof. Take care with the rock - a lot of it looks pretty friable.
Lloyd Wishart 1997-07-29

★★★ Soap 15m 23
The overhanging corner crack on the left edge of the cave. Up steep crack past jugs then out the roof crack and up.
Giles Bradbury 1980s

○　D (Project) 12m 28? Þ
Heads up Soap for a couple of metres, then breaks out right across the main roof. 5 RBs to chain lower off (above LH).

○　E (Dingo?) 8m 24 Þ
2m right of Soap. Steeply up chips past 3 BRs and RB to double RB lower off.

○　F (Dingo?) 8m 26 Þ
1m right of E. Steeply up chips past 4 RBs to chain lower off as for LH.

★ Luv Handles 8m 21 Þ X
2m right of F. Steep moves past 5 RBs to chain lower off. 3rd RB is dodgy.
Unknown 2001
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The Blackboard Area

A nice, dead vertical black wall that extends right from the Cave of Soap. Tends to seep
quite badly after rain. Unfortunately it suffers from run off after rain so some routes may need a brush every once in a while. The routes on this wall have iron stone edges that makes for great crimpy climbing. During January 2003, most of the routes on this wall were rebolted by the SRC Rebolting Fund.

★★ 3D Wimp Out 12m 21 Þ
The right arete of the Cave of Soap. Undercut start, short arete then wall above. 4 RBs in total to lower off. May be harder since the glued on hold near the top ripped off.
James Holbrook, Mike Law 1980s

★ Alison 12m 25 Þ
1m right of 3DW. Up to cave, then thin wall above. 4 RBs.
James Holbrook 1980s

★ The Red Menace 15m 24 Þ
Up A to scoop, traverse right to jug on lip of roof, then up crimpy headwall. 5 RBs to lower off.
Stephen Hawkshaw 2004-03
Gash 12m 16 X
3m right of A. Unpleasant V chimney, often dirty. Take care with pro.

★★ Yesterday's Heroes 12m 17 Þ
Very popular. 3m right of G, marked. Delicate start, L under overlap, trending R to top. 4 RBs to lower off. Direct through overlap is 18.
Venus Kondos 1980s

★ Palm Sunday 12m 21 Þ
1m right of YH. Trend right past 3 spaced RBs on decreasing holds to lower off.
Craig Martin, Harry Wilson 1980s

○　Samantha 10m 20
2m right of PS. Thin face past 2 BRs, then cams to lower off (shared with DC).
Scott Butler, James Holbrrok 1980s

(up elevated onto platform.)

○　Dangerous Currents 6m 22 Þ
Marked. Straight up past two RBs to lower off. Straying right towards Eccles only scores 19.
Matt Raison, Dan Raison 2004

○　Eccles 7m 20 Þ
Just right of DC. Up on crimps past 2 RBs to the lower off above DC.
Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

○　JHTB 8m 20 X
Right of E. No pro. Hard start.

★ Bill Collins 10m 24 Þ
Just right of elevated platform. Marked. Mantle on jug then thin and sharp face climbing. 3 RBs to lower off. There has been some controversy about the grade of this climb - some people have said it's 25 while others say it's a soft 24.
Mike Law 1980s

★ Gidget / Verdon 15m 22+ Þ
8m right of BC. Ridiculously hard start, then up flake and veer right at 3rd RB to top. 3 RBs in total with no lower off (yet). A variant veers left at the 3rd RB past another 2 RBs to a double RB lower off.
Mike Law 1980s

★★ Butter Knives 12m 28 Þ X
4m right of GV. Sharp and thin past 4 BRs. Originally graded 26, but a sandbag.
Mike Law 1980s

○　Marsala 8m 12
The corner crack at the right hand end of the Blackboard. Layback or faceclimb.
A good beginners route with good protection and easily top roped.
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Glamorpus Area

50m right of the Blackboard is a short, steep pocketed wall.

○　G 6m ?? X
At the right hand side of the pocketed wall. One old bolt hole down low, and one manky BR up higher.

○　Julian's Finest Hour 6m 15 X
5m right of G. Up the dirty black wall with dubious natural pro.
Julian Anderson 1990s

○　H 8m 22
Start: Up and right of JFH.
Straight up face on very slick rock. 3 RB’s to double RB lower off.

○　Grumpy Old Men 9m 23
4 metres left of Scones of Doom. Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. Two rings to lower off. Bouldery.
Gavin Portier 2009

○　Up the Duff 8m 22 Þ
2m left of cave. Unattractive. 3 RBs to double RB lower off.
Paul Duff 1997
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Glamorpus Wall Proper

60m right of the Blackboard, an attractive, bulgy orange wall capped with rooves.

★★★ Scones of Doom 12m 23 Þ
Start: Far left of cave. Marked. Steeply up past 4 RBs to a double bolt belay just over the roof.
Mikl Law 1980s

★★ Omnopox 12m 24 Þ
3m right of SoD. 3 U bolts, left to double U bolt lower off.
Mikl Law 1980s

★★★ Glamorpus 15m 24 Þ
Start below central hanging arete. Compact wall past 5 RBs, then step left to chain. Original continued out the steep arete.
Mikl Law 1980s

○　Glamour Mum 12m 22
Picking the absolute worst of Glamorpus and Are You My Mother. More mantles than a display home estate. Do the mantle on Glamorpus then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on Are You My Mother.
Anthony Lin 26/07/2009

○　Are You My Pussy 19m 23
A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb Are You My Mother to second bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U-bolt, finishing up Glamorpus.
Barry Jones 2009

★★ Are You My Mother? 12m 25 Þ

4m right of G. Reachy wall, then out roof past hole.
Scott Butler 1980s

★ Green Eggs and Ham 12m 25
2m right of AYMM. Up corner, left at roof, corner (3 BRs). Right and up (cams).
Scott Butler 1980s

The following climb is another 30m or so further on.

○　Lentil Lollipops 12m 9
Marked. Steep start, then up the unpleasant chimney / corner.
Geoffrey Heath, James Holbrook 1980s

○　I (Ancient open project) 12m ?? X
3m right of LL. Up steep prow past 2 BRs and 3 FHs.
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Bullet Hole Wall

Around right is a pocketed wall with a low roof on the left end, and a prominent flake up and right. Great climbing, but often crowded.

★ Scott's Edge 15m 22/23 Þ
The left arete of Bullet Hole Wall. Roof and arete passing 5 RBs to lower off.
Scott Butler 1980s

★ Comausminpab 12m 18 Þ
Marked. 2m right of SE. The name is a Navy acronym for "Commander Australian Mine Warfare and Patrol Boat Forces". Roof (RB), then pocketed wall past rebar staple and RBs. RB / U bolt lower off.

○　IGMC 12m 19
Between C and FSP. Roof (RB), then straight up past 4 RB to double RB lower off. Very dirty.

★ Fox / Sox / Pox 12m 18 Þ
Very popular. 2m right of C. Roof, then pocketed wall past 2 rebar staples and 2 RBs to a chain lower off.

★ Natasha 12m 22 Þ X
3m right of FSP. Sustained pockets past 4RB to chain lower off. Thin crux past 3rd RB.

★★ Looks Poxable 12m 21 Þ
Great. 1m right of N. 4 RBs to new double U bolt lower offs.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

★ Mental Fatigue 11m 18 Þ
The prominent flake 2m right of LP. Popular. Follow flake up and left, then up wall to chain lower off. 4 RBs in total. Direct start past 2 RBs is 21.
James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s

○　Broken Candy 11m 20 X
Start as for MF. Up and right past 2RB (1st shared with MF) and U bolt to double RB lower off. Dirty.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

○　Torque is Cheap 10m 22
4m right (up slope) from MF. Great wall climbing using some great holds and some small ones as well. Gain the break then venture up the slab to finish.
Gavin Portier 2009
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Positive Ape Factor Area

30m right of the Bullet Hole Wall, a nice orange wall and corner.

★ Who Cares 12m 19/20 Þ X
Start As for 24. From scoop after bouldery start head left to arete. At the cave, head right (RB). Take care with pro (wires and cams).
James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s

★ 24 12m 21
3m left of the corner. Boulder steep start (stick clip RB), then big crux move past 3rd RB to break. More easily to top. Only worth 20 if you veer left at 3rd RB.
James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s

★ Positive Ape Factor 10m 22
The obvious orange corner. Easy up the cracks then a huge reach (crux) to horizontal break. Take care up the final corner - it's quite hard and runout. 2 good BBs.
Scott Butler 1980s

★ Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish) 10m 21
Up PAF to right leading flake. Out flake past bolt.
Giles Bradbury 1980s

○　J (Ancient open project) 10m ??
2m right of PAF. 2 BRs (1st has ancient tat).

○　K (Ancient open project) 10m ??
2m right of J. 1 ancient BR.

★★ Daily Grind 10m 25 Þ
2m right of K. Technical.
Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s

○　Kenneth's Climb 10m 14
2m right of DG, below cracks. Steep start to pleasant slabby cracks. Double BB belay.
James Holbrook, Greg Christie 1980s
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Wall Thing Area

A small wall at the far right end of the crag. The southern access comes down here.

★ Flake Thing 12m 21
5m right of KC. Right side of arete past bolts and cams.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s

★ Wall Thing 12m 18 Þ
2m right of FT. Wall past breaks (often sandy) to thin crack. 4 RBs to lower off.
Rohan Reynolds, Michael ? 1980s

○　Boundary Rider 10m 19 Þ
1m right of WT. Straight up past RB and 3 BRs to new lower off. Straying right near the top only scores a 16.
Julian Anderson, Jonas Kuginis 1998-07

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Bonnet Bay Bouldering

Crag faces West.

Sandstone Bouldering
Acknowledgement
Updated by Neil Monteith

Introduction
A small bouldering area offering steep problems from V0 to V9. One of the best hard bouldering spots in the Shire. Dry in any weather but is spoodgy in summer. Local boulderers seem to have left old manky matts in the cave, which means you might not need to bring your own. Bed bugs included free of charge. Covered in detail in the "Sydney Bouldering" guide.

Access
Park at end of Harrison Road in Bonnett Bay. Walk between houses to baseball oval and find small track going up hill into bush on the left. When you hit the first insignificant rock outcrop (about 50m up the hill) scramble left along cliff base to find well chalked cave after 50m.

Bonnet Bay

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Jump to Left Wall
Jump to Middle Wall
Jump to Right Wall
Jump to Far Right Wall

Introduction

It has possibly the best grade 24 and 27 sport routes in Sydney, but all grades are catered for. Great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area, and only minutes from the car. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. It faces south and is an ice box in winter. Please keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag.
Climbs are described from left to right as you face the cliff.

Left Wall

20m up and L from the main track is this short grey wall with a few brushed gritty face routes. The bolts are gigantic.

1 Overkilled 10m 18 3Þ
The far L route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish.
Ed Rutherford?

★ 2 Stopping Short 10m 18 2Þ
Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly U-bolts. Rap anchor is positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.
Ed Rutherford?

3 Mildly Bent 11m 17 3Þ
Another slabby wall with three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the R near the end its a few grades harder.
Ed Rutherford?

4 The Easy Root 10m 15
Starts on far R of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.

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Middle Wall

The first bit of rock the main trail walks under. It is actually two blocks split by a narrow chimney with a gnarled tree growing across the entrance.

5 Suburban Crack Fiend 6m 16
Wide R facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

6 Premature Evacuation 8m 16 3Þ
Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts and lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.
Ed Rutherford?

7 Tiptoe Ridge 12m 12
Was once a good easy route, but now a lovely vine grows down the top crack and a ringtail possom lives in a pocket. Stay off. Starts just L of the tree and R of the giant u-bolts.

O The Chimney 12m 15 3Þ
Stem up the gap between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the L. Lower-off anchor high up on the L.
Gay Welders Union 2011

First ascent details for the following three excellent climbs are unknown so I have made up names for them.

★★★ 8 Kim 10m 21 3Þ
The L arete on great rock, with some great technical moves. Three rings (and some leftover carrots - clip everything) to a lower-off.
FA Unknown

★★★ 9 Mowgli 10m 18 3Þ
The featured wall R of Kim with three ringbolts. Lower-off at top.
FA Unknown

★ 10 The Jungle Book 9m 15 3Þ
Up to first bolt of Mowgli then step R to ledge then straight up past two ringbolts. Shares loweroff with Mowgli.
FA Unknown

O The Right Edge 10m 12
The R arete of this wall, R of a tree. Fun juggy climbing up a thin rock ridge. Not much protection. Soloed on first ascent.
Gay Welders Union (solo) 2011

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Right Wall

Walk 10m R to this well chalked wall with amazing orange rock.
The first few routes are up and L behind the trees.

★★ 11 Slapperette 10m 24 Þ
Rounded arête just L of Glorius Manglervision. Contrived but funky. can be done without, but the hold on the R between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.
Mikl 2011

★★★ 12 Glorious Manglervision 13m 19 Þ
L leaning crack in behind the trees. Funky climbing that leaves you in tangles. Recently retro-bolted. A brush-tailed possum sometimes lives beneath the anchors, don't scare him too much!
Mike Law 1980s

★★ 13 Between the Lines 16m 23 6Þ
Sustained but contrived. Shallow R facing corner to rooflet. R to flake on L side of corner - up this to arete then L and over roof. To stay on route no stepping on R side of wide crack. If you step over the line then it's probably 22.
Neil Monteith 2010

★★ 14 Bruised and Scratched 15m 20 5Þ
A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to anchors. Retro-bolted
Mike Law 1980s

★★★ 15 Lean Beef 15m 24 6Þ
Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from R to L - then big move up final wall to double RB lower off. Big reaches or dynos. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.
Mike Law 1990s

★★★ 16 Heavy Haulage 15m 27
Start as for Lean Beef, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). Either finish direct to DBB (carrots) over the top, or traverse at top to Lean Beef lower off. Recently rebolted. GOLD!!
Giles Bradbury and Mike Law 1990s

★ 17 Offalwidth 16m 18
Big wide rounded crack splitting R side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay L up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

★★ 18 A1 15m 23 Þ
Contrived. Just to the R of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness. Stay out of the crack for the real tick. DBB lower off up high near the trees.
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★ 19 Aardvark 10m 19 3Þ
The rooflet and steep wall to the R of A1 and L of the scoopy cave. U-bolts and carrots. Heave-ho over the easy overhang then up the wall, jugs on R help or eliminate them for a harder variant.

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Far Right Wall

The next couple of routes are 5m to the R starting at small cave that has a disturbing resemblance to Jabba the Hut.

20 Climb at Own Risk 12m 16 ÞX
Climb overhanging juggy scoops beside tree. FHs to DBB. Abseil from a big tree, or Top-belay and walk off.
Ian and Matt 2001

21 Lumberjack 12m 17 4Þ
Good warm-up. R most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. Steeply over bulge to flake then traverse L onto face to top. 4 U-bolts and a giant U-bolt lower-off (not suit to top-rope), or one step higher to DBB shared with CaOR (not suit to top-rope).
Neil Monteith 2010

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