Mt Kuring-Gai

To enlarge topo or pic, click them. or go to Web Version from the end this page. Go to the end.

go to Middle Wall
go to Motocross Wall

go to Lost and found Wall
go to Faraway Wall

Fossil Wall
This wall is located 5 minutes wall downhill from the parking area. Short climbs on good rock.
Head west over embankment near a water drain and follow the faint watercourse downhill for 200m to reach cliff top. Turn right and scramble down.

Routes are described left to right (facing cliff).

1 Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 6m Þ
2.5m L of VTV. Up past 2 RB finishing at same anchors as VTV.

2 Vanstone the Vampire 7m 16 2Þ
Just right of descent gully. Up short wall.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004

3 Children Overboard 7m 22 2Þ
Up thin face.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004

4 Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 6m 2Þ
3m L of CO

5 Political Prisoner 7m 17 2Þ
Straight up passing 2 breaks and an orange grey streak. Shorties can add a grade.
Rod Wills, Sep 2003

6 Ruddock the Ring Wraith 12m 20 3Þ
Follow flake right over slab to top.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004

★★ 7 The Mind has Mountains 10m 20 3Þ
Up pockets then trend right over bulge.
Vanessa Wills, Aug 2003

★★★ 8 Captain Underpants and the Attack of the Wicked Wedgie Woman 10m 18 3Þ
The first route at Mt Kuringai. Up pockets then diagonal break through bulge. Pumpy!
Rod Wills, Sep 2003

★ 9 Professor Poopy Pants 8m 20 3Þ
Diagonal line of bolts. Short but stout.
Rod Wills, Aug 2004

10 Open Project 10m 4Þ
The crack with 4 RBs.

★ Legoland 15m 16 4Þ
Up obvious line with ledges.
Vanessa Wills, Sep 2003

○　Working from Home 50m 16
Start as for L. Rising traverse following ledge / break / crack to finish on RtRW. Broken into 2 pitches with belay on Captain Underpants.
Andrew Ingles, Colin Larter 2005

★ Elbow Abrasions 15m 16 4Þ
Escapes the crux of UM. Up UM to 3rd bolt then step left and finish up L.
Vanessa Wills, Sep 2003

★★ Unguarded Moment 15m 21 4Þ
At right hand end of wall. Great technical climbing up improbable line. Up slabby face to mantle, step R to crux over bulge. Possibly harder if you're short.
Chris Yoemans, April 2004

Return to Top

Middle Wall

A short wall midway between Fossil Wall and Motocross Wall. To approach directly, locate a large gum tree halfway along the mesh fence of the Motocross Compound. Turn left and follow cairns down through the bush to the top of the crag. Best access is down left side facing wall.

★ Best Of The Shaved 9m 19 4Þ
Start as for CFZ. Step L at 2nd bolt then up.
David Filan, 30-12-2007

★ Care Factor Zero 8m 18 3Þ
Left side of slab.
Rod Wills, 6-5-2007

★ Ecstatic Addict 10m 18 3Þ
3m R of CFZ. Up centre of wall, left side of obvious feature.
Kevin Van Tinburg, 6-5-2007

★ Midge Madness 10m 21 4Þ
2m R of EA. Up centre of wall on R side of obvious feature.
Vanessa Wills, Dec 2004

○　Project (Closed) 6m 2Þ
10m R of MM. Right side of cave, tending straight up out of cave.

○　Project (Closed) 6m 2Þ
Possibly another project with the same start.

○　Well It Ain't Everest 7m 17 2Þ
8m R of Project. Steep start to slabby finish. Shared lower-offs or walk off.
Rod Wills, 2007

○　Well it Ain't K2 7m 17 2Þ
2m R of WIAE. Steep start to slabby finish. Shared loweroffs or walk off.
Rod Wills, 2007

Return to Top

Motocross Wall

A long broken wall of approx 100 metres in length, ranging in height from 10-15 metres. From slab to roofs its got it all.
Continue past locked gate along the fire trail to motocross course. Veer left along Gundah ridge track for 5 minutes until it takes a sharp right turn. Here take a foot track on your left to the cliff top and scramble down gully. You will hit the cliff base at "The Grudge".

○　The Grudge 12m 18 4Þ
Staight up face on wall directly after access gully. Top out, belay off trees at the top.
Rod Wills, Oct 2004

○　Extinction Never Felt So Good 12m 17 4Þ
15m R of TG on next prominent wall. Up over two ledges to face and crux.
Rod Wills, Oct 2004

★ Dinosaurs Must Die 12m 19 4Þ
2m R of ENFSG. Up L side of cave onto tricky face.
Rod Wills, Oct 2003

★ Life On Hold 12m 20 4Þ
Hard start. Up R side of slab over small rooflet and onto slab.
Vanessa Wills, Oct 2003

○　Petrified Wood 10m 20 2Þ
Up corner block through break over roof. Will it ever get repeated? Shared lower offs.
Vanessa Wills, Dec 2003

○　A Dream, Nothing More 10m 15
Corner R of PW. Up corner crack (RB) then up easy corner (gear).
Vanessa Wills, Nov 2003

○　Fossilized Thought 10m 18 3Þ
Start as for ADNM. Boulder up face left of corner crack, step across right to face. Then easily up slab to hard finish. Bridging in the corner up high only gets you 15.
Vanessa Wills, Nov 2003

○　Open Project 8m 2Þ
Around corner on next wall. Over rooflet onto face. Go for it!

★★ Ragged Claw 15m 23 Þ
Start in middle of next face around arete. Over bulge, onto slab then thin face.
Vanessa Wills, Oct 2004

○　Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 15m 6Þ
Start on adjacent wall about 5m R of RC at thin seam.

○　Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 15m 7Þ
Starts on bulging ramp about 1.5m L of PS. Up to 2nd RB then traverse L past 2 RBs then up past 3 RBs to DBB half way along wall.

○　Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 18m 5Þ
As for previous project. Straight up wall past 5 RBs to DBB.

○　Pinkie Shredder 15m 18
On the next wall is a large obvious splitter crack.
Duane White, Dec 2004

★★★ The Devil Inside 15m 23 4Þ
1m R of PS. Bouldery start up prow then onto thin technical face.
Vanessa Wills, Oct 2004

★★★ Heresy 15m 22 5Þ
2m R of TDI. A crimpy classic by all accounts! Bouldery start over bulge onto face.
Rod Wills, Sep 2004

○　Project (Closed) 15m 3Þ
2m R of H. Up wall and arete.

○　Goblin Grotto 15m 15M2
L of FG in grotto. Up crack, aid through roof and up small gully tending left over boulders to top.
Colin Larter, June 2004

★ Goofy Foot 10m 19 Þ
Up right side of cave via jug to top.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004

○　Open Project 15m 22?-24?
(i think this Open Project has been completed already by a precious contributor.)
10m R of GF. Over ledge through middle of "wave" shaped wall. 4RBs.

○　Malibu Rider 10m 13-16?
Start as for open project (cam in break), then traverse R across slab (RB) to corner crack then easily up to lower offs.
Vanessa Wills (solo), Mar 2004

○　Grommet 10m 17
A direct start to MR, straight up crack.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004

○　Skank 10m 21 3Þ
1m R of G. Up through rooflet to shallow corner.
Tim Mayer, 15-4-2007

○　Unfinished Project 10m X
Up through some very hard territory in the middle of the cave. Still needs another bolt.

○　Guns, Germs and Steel 10m 18
5m past cave. The slab to small bulging crack line.
Luke Atkinson, 2004

○　Ball Buster 12m 23 3Þ
Up face and left side of weakness.
Tim Mayer, 15-4-2007

★★ Somewhere Down The Barrel 12m 21 4Þ
5m R of GGAS. Up orange face and weakness.
Elliot Braham, Apr 2004

Return to Top

Lost and Found Wall

Follow the fire trail around to right after Motocross Wall access gully, then left along walking trail along ridge line down the hill.

Enjoy viewing Berowra Creek from a distance that appears in front of you at a big flat rock.

Find a cairn on your left-hand side in about 2 minutes from there.
Turn off main walkway from the cairn to rock shelf on your left, look over edge (eh?) and follow cairns down to Lost & Found Wall.
(Can also be accessed from Faraway Wall, from the top turning right, instead of left along cliff top to gap in big cave, then down the hill. Sounds bush bashing.)

go to Furnace Environs Area
go to 50m Left of the access gully

go to Right of the access gully
go to 1st Up Hill

go to Slab, Right of big cave
go to 2nd Up Hill

go to Carbon Credits Area
Routes described left to right (facing cliff).

Furnace Environs Area

The first few climbs are 300m L of the access gully. Scramble uphill onto ledge.

○　Shoe Lizard 12m 17
Start at far left end of wall in little cave under block. Crawl up through hole then up good hand crack to ledge.
Colin Larter 2008

○　Great Balls of Fire 15m 22 Þ
Sharp edgy face to bigger holds and ledge, then up through orange top section.
Vanessa Wills, Apr 2007

★ Solar Flare 15m 22 Þ
Up pocketed face down low following flake at the top.
Vanessa Wills, Apr 2007

○　The Welsh Route 8m 10
Starts at R end of wall. Up cracks on left side of gully.
Bryony Ruscoe 2007

Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall

50m Left of the access gully

○　Bumphlegm 10m 15
Start at base of big block 3m L of GH. Scramble up short chimney to top of block. Up seam to top.
Colin Larter 2007

○　Goblin Horde 10m 8
Chimney 1m L of LF.
Colin Larter 2007

○　Lactose Free 13m 16 4Þ
Straight up featured face.
Rod Wills, Nov 2007

○　Ding Bat 11m 14 3Þ
2m R of LF. Up juggy wall.
Kevin Van Tilburg 2006

★ Pig Shootin 15m 13

Start 15m R of project past cave around corner. Up nice looking crack with bomber pro.
Dale Tweedie, Feb 2004

★★ Bummagedon 15m 20 5Þ
Start 3m R of PS. Up steep scoops over bulge.
Rod Wills 2005

★ Tingles 16m 21 4Þ
2M R of B and L of the crack. Directly up the wall.
Jason Lammers 10-5-2008

○　Kodak Moment 15m 15

The nice looking crack.
Elliot Braham, Feb 2004

Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall

Right of the access gully

○　Project - Vanessa 4Þ
2m R of gully. Straight up face through ledge/cave to top.

★ Dog Beta 15m 22(20) 6Þ
From L side of small cave, step L at 2nd bolt, then up to ledge, then step R to shared anchors.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006

★★ Dead Letter Office 15m 23(21) 6Þ
Same Start as DB, straight up past L of small cave to lower offs.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006

★ Lichen a Virgin Dog 15m 18 6Þ
Same start as IADL, L at 1st bolt. Straight up above cave to shared lower off with DLO.
Tony Tang 2006

★ It's A Dog's Life 15m 19 6Þ
Up middle of face just R of small cave, over ledge to slab.
Rod Wills, Feb 2006

★★ Foundling 15m 17 6Þ
2m R of IADL, up past thin flake to arête.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006

★ Lost Property 15m 15(17)
2m R of F. Up obvious crack tending L to finish up arête of F.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006

Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall

1st Up Hill

★★ Woken Furies 10m 19 4Þ
Start up hill, up steep wall on L of big cave.
Rod Wills, Feb 2006

○　STW 6m 18 3Þ
3m R of WF in big cave. small roof to lower offs.
Andrew Fell, Jul 2007

Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall

Slab, Right of big cave

The next three climbs are on slab Right of big cave. 2m apart. ○　Roxie and Matey Go Quantity Surveying 12m 20 5Þ
Up slab to short steep headwall.
Vanessa Wills, Jun 2006

○　Scorpion 13m 18 6Þ
Rod Wills, Mar 2006

○　Broke Rib Mountain 12m 14 4Þ
Rod Wills, Nov 2006

Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall

2nd Up Hill

along the corner up the hill
○　Worth The Walk? 6m 15
20m L of Bill. Obvious off width roof crack. Not the most glorious of routes, but fun little moves and surprisingly easy.
Greg Hislop 9-8-2008

○　Bill 10m 14
Wide flared crack. Mmmmm, sounds great!
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006

○　Ben 10m 17
2m R of Bill. Up crack, steepish start.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006

the next three climbs are on slabs 20m further along past corner.
○　Intelligent Design 9m 16 3Þ
Mantle start, then straight up blunt arete.
Rod Wills, Dec 2006

○　Evolution 9m 17 3Þ
2m R of arete. Up tending L to shared anchors. Stay off arete until 3rd bolt.
Rod Wills, Dec 2006

○　The Meaning of Life 11m 15 4Þ
Straight up middle of slab.
Rod Wills, Dec 2006

Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall

Carbon Credits Area

100m further along past big cave
★ Farewell to Fear 13m 19 6Þ
Start up on ledge R of big cave. Step L at 2nd bolt traversing L then up arete.
Vanessa Wills, June 2006

○　Fearless 12m 24 Þ
Start off the block as for D. Takes the low traverse via tiny holds and pockets then thinly up to rejoin FTF at prominent horizontal break. Best protected by placing a long sling from the 3rd bolt after doing FTF.
Vanessa Wills 2009

○　Dendrobium 12m 18 6Þ
Start for as FTF. Bridge up orange face to airy headwall. Do not use higher second set of lower offs as rock there could be unstable.
Vanessa Wills 1-4-2006

○　Ficus 12m 9
Up easy corner R of D. Sounds like another classic!
Vanessa Wills 1-4-2006

★★ Siliconciousness 14m 22 5Þ
Start R of F on main face. Up past balancy flake following orange streak.
Vanessa Wills 1-7-2006

★★★ Carbon Credits 18m 24 7Þ
5m R of S. Up thin face onto sharp arête and continue up to the top.
Vanessa Wills 2007

★★★ She Who Must Be Obeyed 20m 20 8Þ
5m R of CC. Up middle of wall following obvious ramp.
Rod Wills, July 2006

★ Tickfest 20m 22 6Þ
5m R of SWMBO. Hard start up through shallow cave to head wall.
Vanessa Wills, June 2006

★★ Aerospace 16m 18 5Þ
2m R of T. Straight up faint arête tending L at the top. Slightly run out at the top.
Vanessa Wills, June 2006

○　Black Box 14m 21 5Þ
2m R of A, straight up the face.
Vanessa Wills 2007

○　Wing Commander 12m 17 4Þ
2m R of BB. Straight up the face on big holds. Shared lower offs.
Vanessa Wills 2007

★ ZoZo The Mandarin Fiend 15m 18
200m R of WC, past big cave. Up obvious R-leaning orange crack to top.
Vanessa Wills, Anthony Geogheghan, 2007

Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall

Return to Top of Mt Kuring-Gai

Faraway Wall

This is one of the best areas at MtK with good rock to 20m height. Also features a great outlook over Berowra creek. From Motocross Wall, opposite Dinosaurs Must Die, head downhill on a cairned path. Halfway down you will pass a large boulder on your left. At the cliff top turn left until you hit some rock ramps that will bring you to the right hand end of the climbing area.

★ 1 Sapphire Bullets Of Pure Love 8m 12 2Þ
Access is gained by walking around to left under chossy roof at far left of crag. Scramble up to top of block. Up middle of orange streak on great rock and holds.
Jason Lammers 2007

2 Birdhouse In Your Soul 10m 21 2Þ
2m R of SBOPL. Stick clip 1st bolt and launch out and up, to finish as for SBOPL. Dont blow second clip as this could result in a grounder.
Jason Lammers 2005

3 Low Voltage 9m 18 2Þ
On the next face. Up middle of face to lower offs at halfway.
Rod Wills 1-11-2004

★ 4 High Voltage 18m 24 6Þ
An extension to LV, continuing straight up the face.
Daniel Webster 21-4-2007

★ 5 Death Adder 15m 19 X
3m R of LV under roof. Through roof then step left to arete and up before traversing out right across lip of cave and up to anchors.
Vanessa Wills 1-12-2004

★★ 6 A New Way of Living 13m 20 5Þ
5m R of DA. Up to R face to thread/bollard runner, step left across corner/crack to 1st bolt (hidden from ground - long draw). Follow juggy step face to anchors.
Chris Yeomans 1-9-2005

7 The Angry Goblin 15m 18 X
Up corner crack/crack, under roof, finish at anchors for TDCOM. Be wary of loose rock when pulling on rock, belayer should wear a helmet.
Colin Larter 1-12-2005

★ 8 The Dark Con of Man 15m 22 8Þ
3m R of TAG. Up middle face tending right at start through fun pumpy moves down low. Intially bolted by Rod who eventually admitted defeat and gave it to Vanessa!
Vanessa Wills 1-4-2007

★★★ 9 Vitruvian Man 20m 23 6Þ
6m R of TDCOM. Up stepped arete to sit-down rest. Blast up and right past a dynamic move to reach scoop and up beautiful orange face.
Stephen Hawkshaw 1-11-2004

★★★ 10 The Memory Cathedral 20m 22 5Þ
3m R of VM. Straight up right side of orange face and scoop to finish as for VM.
Vanessa Wills 1-11-2004

11 The Happy Goblin 10m 15
1m R of MC. Up corner/crack.
Colin Larter 1-2-2006

12 Kiss and Make Up 12m 22 4Þ
1m R of THG. Straight up face between corner and cave.
Greg Hislop 2007

The Mischievous Leprechaun 10m 16 X
2m L of PLC. Start in cave, swing up and out of cave then up crack. Very little protection for top half.
Colin Larter, August 2009

★ 13 Peruvian Love Child 10m 14 2Þ
4m R of KAMU. Up left side of shorter wall, 2m R of cave.
Rod Wills 1-11-2004

○　Phyto-Bezoar 10m 9
4m R of PLC. Up juggy crack in middle of shorter wall.
Vanessa Wills (solo) 1-10-2004

★ 15 Chilli in Chile 8m 20 2Þ
3m R of PB. Up thin face past pockets.
Vanessa Wills 1-11-2004

○　Istanbul (not Constantinople) 8m 16 2Þ
3m R of CIC. Pocket to edge then up jugs. Nice moves. Add a grade if you're short.
Jason Lammers 1-11-2004

The Underworld
A shortish slabby wall around 10m high with steeper stuff at the left hand end.
At Faraway Wall as soon as you scamble down access cliff to base, head left along base of cliff for 50-100m then head straight down the hill. Alternatively if at Lost and Found just keep heading along cliff line for about 300m after Zozo. Either way its a bit of a bush bash.

★ Summer Roll For Your Soul 8m 17 4Þ
Up left side of weakness. Fun jug hauling and mantling.
Kevin Van Tilburg 6-7-2008

★ Hard Candy 8m 18 4Þ
2m R of SRFYS. Up right crack, onto face at first bolt and straight up face.
Rod Wills 6-7-2008

○　Project - Dave 7m 3Þ
4m R of HC

○　Shrinky Dink 7m 14 3Þ
1m R of crack up arete. Up crack stepping R onto face at 3rd bolt and up.
Kevin Van Tilburg 6-7-2008

★ Final Atonement 7m 18 3Þ
2m R of SD, up blank face. Fingery start and top bouldery finish.

○　Project - Kev 7m 3Þ
5m R of FA, L side of shallow cave in middle of wall.

○　Crapola 7m 16 3Þ
10m R of Kev's project. L side of cave onto blank slab.

Rod Wills 24-8-2008
Return to Top

Bangor

To enlarge pix or topo click them. They will be downloaded, and stored in your Media browser. Or view Web Version from the end of this page (Mobile version is default when using mobile phone.)
Jump to the end & click 'View web version' below 'Home'

Jump to Right of Normal Gully
Jump to Normal Gully

Jump to The Block
Jump to Go Go Gadget Area

Jump to Grandma's Area

History

In the early days, given how short the cliff is, most of the easier routes at Bangor were considered top-rope problems. The ethics of the day considered it poor form to bolt such short problems, so a small group of local climbers pursued the art of top-roping, including off the chockstone wedged halfway along the cliffline. Dave Humphries (Dr. Dave) got the bolts rolling during the early '80s. He experimented with loxons, dynabolts, even early versions of glue capsules but finally reverted to good old bashies, establishing a swathe of the crags classics, including: End of the Decade, Python and his business-generating Sports Injuries Clinic. It's fair to say that Dave very much led the way with a small group of locals, such as Peter Faill, Steve Turcsanyi, Dave Weekes, Peter Farkas, Glenn Short, a young Hayden Wallace and Rupert the original lunch-stealing slobbery dog all chipping in over the years. Fun in the shade and a cold beer on top of the cliff, watching the sunset over the Woronora River became the Bangor way. Attitudes changed a bit and by the end of the 80s all the old top-rope problems, and quite a few new harder ones, had sprouted protection and names. There are a few harder things at Bangor now, but the focus remains on light-hearted, sociable cragging. Bring the esky.

Climbs are described right(R) to left(L), facing the cliff.
Return to the top of Bangor

Right of Normal Gully
These cool routes are at the far R of crag (when facing crag.)

○　Arete Problem V8
A square cut arête 80m R of TW.
Joe

○　Egg Rings 10m 18 4Þ
Fun jug pulling up steep wall on R end of wall. Very well protected but has no lower-off. DRB at 3m back at the top.

★★ The Whorl 13m 16 Þ
At the far R-hand end of the crag, in the trees. Marked. A bouldery start leads to interesting climbing up a nice wall (be careful of the bridge of rock at half height). 4 BRs to double bolt belay.
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill

★ Dorothy May 13m 16 Þ
Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m L of TW. Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay L up the juggy arête on carrots.
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill

There is a popular well chalked bouldering cave at the base of the crag here.

○　Lean Too 12m 15
The deep crack 1m L of DM.

○　Shire Riot 12m 20 4Þ
The line of very shiny but dubious rings on R side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.

★ The Shire Republic 12m 20 Þ
The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.

Return to the top of Bangor

Normal Gully

The Normal descent gully reaches the base of the crag here.

○　Rainman 6m 12 X
The low angled face 2m L of the descent gully. Up the face with no pro. There are TR bolts.

★ NFM 8m 21 Þ
5m L of Rainman, just under arete. Marked. Up to RB then Lwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top.

○　Killer's Kidneys 8m 21 3Þ
Marked "KK". 3m L of NFM.
H. Wallace 1992

★ Pyromaniac 7m 18 3Þ
Starts 3m L of KK. Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct for the tick.
Matt Portman, Neill Crabb

The next wall is well featured and very popular.

★ Dynamic Winter 10m 20 X
On R-hand edge of bulging buttress L of P. Marked. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying R of AB. No pro until after the crux. Double BBs.
H. Wallace 1992

★★ Andrew's Bulge 11m 15 Þ
A Sydney classic! Start marked with painted hand. 1m L of DW. Rebolted 2009. The original bulging Andrew during the first ascent, "Be the rock".
Andrew (I guess) and Peter Faill

○　Get Tracked 10m 14
The crack 0.5m L of AB.
G. Quinn (solo) 1985

○　Side Tracked 10m 10
0.5m L of GT. Seam (small wires) with small thread at top.

★ Pitted Arete 10m 16
Start as for ST. Up the crack then L up the R side of the rounded arete.
Steve Turcsanyi 1987

○　Mars Apple 8m 21 Þ
1m L of PA. Marked T2. Desperate start. Rebolted 2009
Steve Turcsanyi 1987

○　Zulu Trainer 10m 13 Þ
1m L of MA. Nice to the ledge then doddle to top. New bolts 2009.
Steve Turcsanyi 1987

○　Mike's Photogenic Crack 10m 12
Corner crack L of ZT. Bouldery start then easy.
Mike (I guess)

○　Sports Injury Clinic 10m 21+ X
1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill

The climbs on the main wall get a bit confused from this point around to Python. My Girl and C are easy to locate (by the nice new bolts), but some of the others, who knows?

○　Tits and Bits 8m 20 X
1m L of SIC. 2 FHs.
P. Farkas 1989-07

○　Christmas Nuts 10m 8
1m L of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney.

Return to the top of Bangor

The Block
The following five climbs are on the huge block in front (South) of the main wall.

★ Midway 8m 13 3Þ
On L side of the block if you stand between main wall and the block, and facing the block. The wall faces East. Hard start, then trending L, juggy to anchors shared with Farway.

★ Farway 8m 13 3Þ
4m L, 1 step down of Midway to start, trending R to anchors shared with Midway.

○　Tilba Tilba 8m 6
North side of the boulder, facing the main wall. Mantle then up. Easy but no pro.

★ Voodoo Traverse 15m 18 X
Start as for TT. Traverse R to second corner ( above the finish of Monkey Bars), then up.

★ Death of a Black Boy 8m 22 3Þ
On R side of the block if you stand between main wall and the block, and facing the block. Above massacred black boy. Start as for Monkey Bars, out R through roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to Ubolts anchors.
H. Wallace 1992

★★★ The Three Sides Traverse 18m V3 / V4
On the L-hand end of the downhill face. Traverse R following hand traverse line. Round corner and traverse uphill (crux). Round corner and traverse short low overhung section to finish in cave.
Nick Clow 2003-07

★★ Monkey Bars 5m 20 5Þ
Also known as Lucky's Roof. Monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to the lower offs.
Unknown

Return to the top of Bangor

Go Go Gadget Area
(Back to the main wall.)

★ Fixed Steps 10m 19 3Þ The rounded arete 1m L of CN. Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs.
Steve Turcsanyi 1985

○　Go, Go, Gadget Arms 9m 22
Marked GGG. 2m L of FS, on R-hand side of blank wall. Thin and desperate moves up the wall. Top rope only, although Hayden did lead it.
H. Wallace 1992

★★ 3 Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix 10m 24 Þ
Battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. R of MG and L of the original GGG, at vertical seam. Technical!
Jason Lammers 2010

★ My Girl 10m 23 Þ
4m R of In Depth. A thin boulder problem with bolts. 2 RBs to giant U.
Trevor Cooper-Williams 1992-01-14

○　C 10m ?? X
1m L of MG. 3 manky BRs.

★ D 10m 21 Þ
1m L of C. 2 FHs to 2RB lower off - Good
Chris Wallace 1992

○　A Loving Hole 10m 20 Þ
Up wall on new RBs. Just R of corner crack. A little contrived but what did you expect?
H. Wallace 1992

○　Bangor Tiger 10m 19
Start as for ALH. Traverse L and up. "How many micro routes can we squish in, tigger?"

○　In Depth 10m 9
Corner crack 0.25m L of ALH.

★★★ Arachnology for Kids Traverse 9m V4 / V5
Start as for ID. Traverse R to finish at arete of 'Fixed Steps'. Nick says "This boulder problem is a corker. It took quite a while (maybe 5 or 6 trips) from initially conceiving it, dabbling and then working on it to finally finishing off. I was so pleased with the quality of it in the end because the key sequence is both technical and sustained in difficulty."
Nick Clow 2003-11-24

○　Python Direct 10m 19+ X
Just L of ID. 1 BR then runout to top.

★ Python 10m 16 Þ
1m L of PD. 2 FHs up the arete to double bolt belay.

Return to the top of Bangor

Grandma's Area

★ Grandma's Python 10m 16
Start: L of P, R-hand side in cave. DRB

★ Grandma's Wheelchair 10m 16
Start: 1m L of GP, on L-hand side of cave. Up then R past a BR and cam placements to a double bolt belay. Dave Humphries

○　Get Walking 9m 14
Start as for GW but straight up.
Steve Turcsanyi (solo) 1988

○　Skulduggery 9m 16 X
2m L of GW at cave. Up past manky BR then awkwardly over bulge. Easily to top.

★ End of the Decade 11m 20 Þ
Start below traverse line, 3m L of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete. 2 FHs and optional cam on low angled headwall. Double BBs.
Dave Humphries

★ End of the Century 10m 22 Þ
A direct version of EOD past RBs to lower off. Good rock.
Jason Lammers 2009

○　End of the Line 12m 18
Start as for GC, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to RB and up flake as for EotC. Some trad gear needed.
T. Meredith, D. Burgess 2011

★ Grotto Crack 9m 17 Þ
Corner crack just L of EotD. Pleasant bridging up corner. 2 BRs out R or large cams.

○ Buzz Boys Beat 9m 19
0.5m L of GC. Up bulgy blocks. Take cams.
P. Farkas 1989

★ Zip 8m 16 Þ
4m L of BBB. Deceptive start, strenuous first clip (BR) then up easy wall past a 2nd BR. Double bolt belay.
G. Quinn 1986

○　Unzip 10m 17 Þ
2m L of Z under roof. Boulder R under roof then up as for Z.

○　Billabong 5m 18 Þ
5m L of U in middle of wall. Thin wall climbing past 1? BR.
G. Quinn 1986

The second descent gully reaches the base of the cliff here.

○　Ali 5m 15
The jam crack 2m L of the descent gully.

○　Slobbery Dog 6m 15
Corner 6m L of A.Monument to Rupert, Peter Faill's black dog, who had a penchant for stealing climbers' lunches while they were on belay duty. If you have problems with the decent gullies, Rupert used to be able to run up and down them with ease.
Peter Faill and Dave Humphries

○　Rockclimber's Waltz 7m 12 X
Marked. Up offwidth and (loose looking!) blocks. Two variants at top.

○　Head Butte 6m 16
4m L of RW. Ugly looking crack with reverse head jam.

Return to the top of Bangor

To enlarge topos click 'View web version' below 'Home.'

The Cathedral

Updated on 22 July 2011.

To enlarge topo or pic, click them. or view  web version from the end this page. Go to the end.

go to Left Side of Main Wall
go to Head Injuries Wall Area

go to Hercules Wall
go to The Cathedral Cave

go to Tarmac Traverse Area
go to Right Hand Slabs

go to Angels Buttress

Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.

Return to Top

Left Side of Main Wall

○　Der Zauberlehrling (not in topo) 10m 19 

The short corner/roof and slabby arete that the path ducks under before arriving at the C Slab ampitheatre. #1 friend or equivalent for crack/mantle then 1RB up the arete to loweroffs. Can scramble onto ledge from left and clip bolt if you don't have any friends.

Stu Dobbie, May 2011

★ 　Caesarean Section (open project) 10m 22? 

Start below the boulder, 5m left of the Pointy Arete project. Up the slab past U bolts to lower off.

Has this been ticked (Insert your name here)

○　Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral 10m 16 

The corner immediately left of the pointy arete.

Stu Dobbie, Gavin Critchley May 2011

○ 　pointy arete project 10m 22? 

Pointy arete 6m R of CS

★★ Layback Corner 12m 18  

Start 10m right of CS, in a right facing layback corner that stops at 8m. Head up the corner to laybacking and kneebar past flare, stay right and up arete to anchor. Don't Jamb! May have been done before, tho' there were many loose flakes removed. Needs a bit of traffic. Bring thin to hand sized cams?

FRA Mikl Law 2011

Return to Top

Head Injuries Wall Area

★ Head Injuries 8m 13 Þ  

Walk down and right 20m and up to right facing corner crack

Graham Fairbairn 1989

★★★ Young Bumblies 10m 21 Þ  

Slabby classic. Climb H.I. and head left and belay on Ubolt. Up flake and steep wall (4 Ubolts). Lower off all the way to the deck

Graham Fairbairn 1989

★★ Surface Paradise 20m 22 Þ  

Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate

Mikl 2011

★ Surface Paradise DS 10m 23 3Þ  

Up seam right of Head Injuries and up arete to join Surface Paradise. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break..

mikl 2011

★★ The Dynamic Duo 18m 21 Þ  

Start 2m R of HI, just left of a wide crack. Head left up the flake and onto the steep wall. There 'may' be some bridging into the corner but can be done without at 23.

Kent Heffernan 1989

★ Jaded Cravings 16m 23 Þ  

Start 3m R of HI, in wide crack. Up the EZ arete. Gather your thoughts in a small cave, then bounce on to the wall and up using the crack at one point.

David Barnes 1990

★★ Failure is your friend 18m 22 Þ  

Follow Jaded Cravings till after the second bolt then head rightwards. After the big break head right and up.
(Left hand bolts above break are another project.)

Bundy 9/04/2011

Return to Top

Hercules Wall

★★★ Anticoagulant 15m 23 Þ  

Up corner 15m R of HI (confusingly marked SSS) to cave then left and continue up leaning crack bulge and on to top. Weird, funky fun.

Graham Fairbairn 1989 to bulge (which is probabaly the crux), Extension to top by mikl 1990

★★ Bordella de Merde 8m 27 Þ  

Open project. The 3 RB's to double RB lower off above Anticoagulant, a great line, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)

Mike Law 1991

★★ Expectorant 15m 24 Þ  

Start up corner as for Anticoagulant and Hercules then up through caves on jugs till you get spat off. V5 maybe?

mikl 2011

★★ Hercules 15m 22 5Þ  

Originally started as for Imogen, but extra bolts in that means most people missed the crux by bridging up groove and stepping left. Easier to start as for Anticoagulant in easy corner (with initials SSS for some reason!). Up, then step right and up line of bolts.

Kent Heffernan 1989

★★★ Hercules Direct Finish 25m 23 Þ  

From the top of Hercules, blast up the arete past hard move to slabby finish to lower off (rebolted 2008)

Mike Law 1990

★★ Imogen 15m 22 Þ  

Start just left of Cathedral Cave. Straight up blunt arete. Way cool rock climbing.

Jason Lammers 5-11-2008

○　Fat Crack 30 ?  

Wide squeeze chimney corner crack which may or may not have been climbed. Thrutchy!

○　Axe Grinder 8m 15 Þ  

Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff to hanging belay off rings and old carrots. 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there.

David Barnes 1989-09

★★ Bundy's Been Boltin' 15m 20 Þ  

Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20 to the first lower off. The one move extension to the second lower-offs is 22. From here you can get into the wide crack and thrutch up then go right to join Axe Grinder at 23 (Cameron Taylor, The Shute).

Jason Lammers 2007

Return to Top

The Cathedral Cave

The large chossy cave located just here is called The Cathedral, and gives the crag its name.

★★★ Wacky Tabacci 25m 19 Þ  

If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' pro, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The obvious chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chokstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose.

Graham Fairbairn 1989

★★ Retro Crack 25m 20 Þ  

The bolted crack line 5m rifght of WT and 1.5m left of Get Out of Town. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete, but a jamb or two may be needed. Could easily be lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts. The top half had previously been bolted, and probably traversed in from one the cracks on the right.

FRA Mikl 2011 (but may have been done before on trad.)

Rob Hodyl demonstrating how to climb wide cracks in the rain on Retro Crack.

The following two climbs cross each other at the pea pod at half height. A good variant is to start up V, step left to GOoT at about 5m and then follow it to the top.

★★ Get Out of Town 25m 20  

Start on face 1m left of V. Hard off the ground to RB, and trad up to pea pod. Move right and clip Ubolt and chain on IG then right again to join line of RBs (about 2m R of crack) to lower off.

Kent Heffernan 1989

★★ Vitez 25m 18  

Start: Below the obvious recessed corner crack.

Follow crack up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Up this and follow the crack to the top past some carrots.

P. Farkas 1989

★ Vitez LH finish 25m 17  

Step left onto flake above peapod and past 2 ring bolts to top

unknown

★ Inchworm Groove 10m 27  

Once the hardest trad line in The Shire/Sydney/NSW maybe. Start below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or on to top.

Mike Law 1990

★★★ Ozone Action 20m 18  

Sydney Classic trad route at the grade! Hard weird start. Take a few cams and slings.
Start: Below the obvious water groove / flake feature. Follow the flake line / water groove past a two RBs, sling the spike (maybe hang some gear off it to keep it on) and throw in a cam (the bolts out left are tempting but may make your higher gear fall out), then either right up jugs for a few moves then back left, or straight up the flake. Cams then up flake and top wall (BR) to lower-offs or top out.

Graham Fairbairn 1989

★★★ Creature Feature 22m 23 Þ  

Great moves on the top wall. You can sling the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a possible sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and up the thin slab and left again past left hand line of bolts to lower off.

Graham Fairbairn 1989

★★★ Gutterfingers 20m 21 Þ  

Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off as for CF.

Vanessa Peterson 2011

★★ Jack and the Beanstalk 8m 14  

Left of GW at tree. Up, using the suffering tree to start. 2 Ubolts and cam. Finish up one of the upper routes

Christina Fairbairn 1989

The next climb used to finish at the Tarmac Traverse. The tree that used to be climbed to gain the rock has now gone.

○　Guerrilla Warfare 8m 14? 2Þ  

Directly below CQ. Start used to involve the tree, but it's long gone, so the grade is probably much higher now. 2 BRs.

Kent Heffernan 1989

○　Ghostrider 8 23  

The short hard little problem under NN. Hard start to pocket then crimp your way to the chain under NN. Probably easier if your tall.

Jason Lammers 2006

Return to Top

Tarmac Traverse Area

The following 5 routes all start from the Tarmac Traverse - the obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a belay / rap chain (clip the first bolt on CC as a runner). If it is crowded you could also belay from the ground below the intended route. The following four routes have new lower-offs, please use your own carabiners if top-roping to save wear and tear on the bolts.

○　Aero Arete 8m 13  

Just right of arete. Up, using pro to the left (as for the top of OA) or clip the bolts on ST.

Steve Turcsanyi 1989

★ Suicidal Tendencies 8m 16 3Þ  

Next route left. 3 Ubolts to lower off. Don't stray left or right!

Graham Fairbairn 1989

★ Cathedral Quack 8m 16 3Þ  

Next line to the left. Up (3 Ubolts) to lower off shared with ST. Named for a group of ducks that used to frequent the crag.

Kent Heffernan 1989

★ Neuron Nerd 8m 16 3Þ  

Step right from the chains and up.

Graham Fairbairn 1989

★ Cosmic Cruncher 8m 16 4Þ  

The right most line. Ubolts to lower off (shared with NN).

Kent Heffernan 1989

Shoot That Dog 10m 14  

The chimney.Looks hard

Kent Heffernan 1989

★★ Mushroom Mantle 12m 20 3Þ  

Start below flake. Up the flake with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off.

Graham Fairbairn 1989

★ Cranking Like a Demon 12m 24 3Þ  

Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off.

Mike Law 1990

Return to Top

Right Hand Slabs

Extending away to the right of the main wall are a series of smooth slabs that seep a bit after rain. You can walk across from the main wall, or veer off right from the open grassy area further down the hill. Much harder and more powerful than they look.

Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.

★★ Isis 12m 23 Þ  

Start: 25m right of the main wall, Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves

Mike Law 1990

★★★ Glacis 18m 30 Þ  

3m right of Isis. Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks to anchor.

Mike Law 1990

★★★ Moss Ghyll Grooves 10m 24 Þ  

20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall. Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy...

Mike Law 1990

★★ Take me to the Tropics 11m 25 Þ  

A bit contrived, up MGG then move right and back left to anchors. Looks desperate!

Cam Taylor 2008

★★★ In the Groove 15m 25 Þ  

Right of MGG. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack.

Mike Law 1990

There are 2 random old carrots high on this wall. Good luck!

★★ Legless 20m 24 Þ  

10m right of ITG. Stick clip high Ubolt and go through hard start, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre move at top.

Mike Law 1991-12

(A creek tumbles down the hill just here. There are 3 slab climbs on the Trauma Wall, slab climbing is hard work.)

★★ Spite 15m 25 Þ  

Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece. Stick clip high Ubolt and go.

Mike Law 1990

★★ Mr Squiggle 10m 20 Þ  

8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite. Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors.

FRA Mike Law 1990, there were some 70's style bolts on this route

★★★ Ms Pat 10m 21 Þ  

4m right of MS. Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80's it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts!

Mike Law 1989

Return to Top

Angels Buttress

The cliff goes up the hill (access scramble possible to top here), but walk horizontally right 40m to the next section of cliff.

★★ Wire Brush and Dettol 18m 20 Þ  
About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it.
FRA Mike Law, May 2011

○　 arete project ?m ? Þ  
short arete 2m R of WB+D
project by ?

★★ Tourniquet 18m 21  
Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth, Stick clip BR at 4m. and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.
FRA Stu Dobbie, May 2011

★★ Buffalo Bum 18m 18  
The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Torniquet
Mike Law, May 2011

○　Supergroove (Stu project)  
Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum

○ Coffin 12m 24 Þ  
Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Supergroove. aka Boffin in a Coffin.
mikl 2011

Escaping the crack on Coffin

★ TweedleBum 12m 22  
Wide crack through roof 4m right of Coffin project. take a #4 camalot and a gardening glove if your fists are small.
Mikl Law june 2011

Return to Top