Lost World

15 minutes walk, Shady for most of the day

To enlarge map or topo click them. They will be downloaded, and stored in your Media browser.
Or view Web Version from the end of this page (Mobile version is default when using mobile phone.)
Jump to the end & click 'View web version' below 'Home.'

Jump to Main Wall

Acknowledgement
Updates from Neil Monteith & Mike Law

Introduction
One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small number of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory.

Access

To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street.
Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track below the houses.
Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) across a diagonal access lane, go 10m further west and then pick up a trail that runs straight down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff.
Turn right (west) and walk along a trail near the clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform).
Rap in from here.

Or walk to the base of the crag, scramble down small cliffettes directly below the carpark.

An easy scramble to the base also exists 100 m right (facing cliff) of the main wall, marked by a large orange gum tree. This provides access to the micro-area.

Micro Area
★ Tull's Ball-tearer 12m 18 X
Could not be located. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s

The following two climbs are on the small east facing wall.
Screaming Pretty 17m 20 X
In middle of east facing wall. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s

Grunting and Groaning 17m 20 X
2m left of SP. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s

Main Wall
Located about 75m further left of the previous section is this impressive 25m high wall

A 20m ?? X
A striking corner crack with a few manky bolts.

1 Dirt Trawler 20m 23 6Þ
Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.

2 Dirt Trawler Left Variant 22m 21 7Þ
About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to Dirt Trawler. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.

3 Nightcrawler (project) 20m 8Þ
The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?
Project Neil Monteith

★★★ 4 Keep Off the Grass 20m 25 Þ
About 15m left of A. Marked PT. Originally started in from left above roof. Start as for Fun and Destruction then after first bolt go right and straight up through roof and up twin seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009
Neil Mahant c1988

★★★ 5 Fun and Destruction 20m 23 7Þ
AKA Fun and Danger (erroneous). Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009
Neil Mahant c1988

★ 6 Cat Burglar 26m 23 7Þ
A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for Eudaimonia to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Nightcrawler.
Neil Mahant c1988

★★ 7 Eudaimonia 20m 22 6Þ
1m left of the chipped "PT". A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.
Neil Mahant c1988

8 Superforce 20m 25 Þ
Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)
Neil Mahant c1988

★ 9 Soup or Force 15 23 Þ
Start as for Superforce. Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.
Mike Law 2009

Lost World Cave
Walk a further 100m left from the main wall to find this very steep orange cave. Only one bolted project at the moment, and some minor potential for very short steep routes.

Scoop Project 7Þ
Long traverse in from the right across horizontals, then through scoopy roof and up corner.
Project: Neil Montieth

Return to the top of Main Wall

Bangor is updated today. The link is same as before http://sydneycrag.blogspot.com.au/2011/04/bangor.html

Bluebell

To enlarge pix click them to download, or go to Web Version from the end of this page (You are looking at mobile version screen automatically if you are using mobile phone.)

Jump to Main Wall
Jump to Main Wall left-side
Jump to the end

Access

Park at the end of Bluebell Rd, Heathcote. Hop the gate onto the fire trail, then left, and go around back of 7 houses. The crag is located down to the right, and you can either rap in (off chains or trees) at the back of 4th house, or scramble down right from the end of 7th house to the base of the cliff.
Routes described right to left, facing the cliff.

Mini Crag

The following 5 routes are on the little orange wall before the main wall.

1 Duncan Direct Start 6m 10 1Þ
Start below short orange wall. Up wall passing RB to lower off.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

2 Duncan 7m 11 2Þ
Start left of small corner. Up over small bulge then veer right to loweroff.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

3 Zara 7m 14 1Þ
2m right of A. Up wall past high RB (stick clip) to lower off shared with A.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

★ 4 Anika 8m 16 2Þ
At left end of wall. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower off.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

5 Nathan 9m 16 3Þ
The girdle traverse route. Start at A and move across and up bast bolts on Z and D to finish on anchors as for D.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

Main Wall

1 Trust Me I Used Araldite 7m 15 X
At far right hand end of main wall. Up flake (FH) and through bulge (crux) then up headwall (FH). 1st FH has been placed too low, so I'd recommend preclipping the 2nd with a long sling (otherwise you'll be pulling the crux on a ground fall).
Shae Constantine 1992

2 Al's Nightmare 8m 22 X
3m left of TMIUA. Top rope route, with incomplete bolting.
Alan Smith

★ 3 Heathcote Homo 10m 18 3Þ
2m L of AN. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move to gain anchors.
Jason Lammers 2008

4 Screaming Cockatoos 10m 18? 4Þ
2m left of HH, below obvious flake. Shared start with S, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts (ring, carrot, ring) to shared lower off with HH. Hard for 18
Shano 1992

★★ 5 Sparky 10m 16 Þ
Start as for SC. Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 FHs and optional #2 cam to double U bolt shared lower off with M. Fantastic climbing.
David Barnes 1992

★ 6 Meltdown 10m 19 3Þ
Just left of S. Straight up past 3 BRs to double U bolt shared lower off with S. Rebolted.
David Barnes 1992

★ 7 97% McDougall Free 12m 22 Þ
The direct line just left of M. Stay out of the corner at the start. 4 RB to lower off. Good bargin shopping at 22, could be 21.
Jason Lammers 2006-12-05

★★ 8 Welcome to the Body Shop 12m 21 Þ
Best 21 in Sydney. Start left of M. 3RB + 2FH to chain. Sustained climbing on excellent, steep, juggy rock. Rebolted 2008
David Barnes 1992

★★ 9 Bitch'n 12m 23 5Þ
3m L of WttBS from lower ledge. 3FH then RB. More steepness. Delicate over bulge and then get on trucken to the end.
David Barnes 1993

Back to the top of Main Wall
Jump to the end

Main Wall left-side

★★ 10 [Linkup] Bundy in a Bottle Shop 18m 23 Þ
Start 1.5m L of B, as for RB. Clip first FH on RB then move up and right to a big side pull (U bolt). Traverse right into B, clipping 2 bolts on B then move up into pumpy steep territory past 2 more U bolts. Finish at lower off on WttBS.
Jason Lammers 2006-05

★★★ 11 Ruthless Babe 12m 23 Þ
1.5m L of B below big rooves. An awesome, sustained route featuring a full body length roof and some of the best rock in Sydney. Was 22 until a big hold snapped off (hmmmmm....maybe the rock isn't that good!). 5RB (2nd RB is next to old FH.) to DRB lower off. Tends to seep after rain.
David Barnes 1992

★★ 12 [Linkup] Ruthless Shop 18m 23
Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancy moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.

★★ 13 Gatekeeper 13m 23 Þ
Start as for RB. Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM. Avoids the crux of DBoM, but is still a classic!
David Barnes 1992

There is a FH here between 11(RB) and 14(DBoM). Looks the bolt is rusted.
★★13.5 [Linkup] Guerilla Radio 16m 26
Do crux on DBoM, traverse right and do crux on G. Link into BiaBS and finish at anchors. El Pumpo supremo!

★★ 14 Darling Buds of Mayhem 15m 25 Þ
6m L of RB(11), below arete where tree's root is. 1st RB is up high to start, then diagonally R past 4 new U bolts. A true Sydney classic!
Mike Law 1992

15 Divine Intervention 15m 23 Þ
Start as for DBoM. Up DBoM for 3 bolts, then head right past 3 BRs to DBB at top.

★★ 16 Flying Kites 15m 23 Þ
Start as for DBoM. Up pumpy arete, passing 4 RBs.
G. Morton 1993

★ 17 Heel and Toe Polka 15m 24 Þ
Climb as for DBoM to 2nd bolt and then big move and clip U bolt on left. Up to carrot and thru roof, clip another U bolt, then top out. DBB lower off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.
Jason Lammers 2006-02

18 Lobotomised 15m 18
2m left of DBoM. Ramble up left from the tree of DBoM to ledges (cam) then up over bulges (2 BRs and a FH). Triple BBs.
Chris Wallace 1992

Back to the top of Main Wall
Back to the top of Main Wall left-side
Back to the Bluebell TOP

Click View web version below to see Web version.