11 February 2012

Binary Cave



19 Constipation Chimney Variant Start - verified 19m 12 Rap-anchor
One of the easiest dry pitches in the Blueys!! A much nicer way to start CC, and a worthwhile single pitch in it's own right if you rap off the chain at first ledge. Bring hand to fist cams and some wires. Marked CCVS. Left facing orange corner with great gear. Belay on shale ledge at rap chain.

20 Birthday Bolts 20m 19 9 bolts Lower-off
Birthday gifts from Vanessa and Ryan :-) As per 33Y for 3 bolts and then veer right and up the engaging orange slab.
FA: Jason Lammers - 2012-01-28

21 Thirty Three Years - verified 19m 21 7bolts Lower-off
Popular and technical climbing. Start at CCVS corner then trend left up the orange wall past a few overlaps.
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2010-00-00

22 Flash Flood - verified 18m 20 8 bolts Lower-off
Line of rings up dark orange wall 3m left of Thirty Three Years. Stick clip first bolt and campus the undercut start. Nice finish up steep prow.
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2011-01-16

23 Thai Virus - verified 25m 22 10 bolts Lower-off
Flash Flood for two bolts then left and up orange wall. One tough move halfway up.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2012-01-22

24 La NiƱa 25m 22 10 bolts Lower-off
Start up FF, and then move left to the furthest line of RB's, then climb the super headwall.
FA: Jason Lammers - 2012-02-05

25 Torrential - verified 25m 20 Rap-anchor
Unlikely well protected trad climbing. Weave up blocky steep stuff to under big roof. Swing right across break and up seam crack to shale ledge. Rap off anchors above TTY.
Starts 15m left of Thirty Three Years at blocky weakness through big roofs.
FFA: Rich Sonnerdale & Neil Monteith - 2010-00-00

26 Middle Finger - verified 25m 21 Rap-anchor
Climb Torrential for 14m to under big roof. Place #5 cam in slot then traverse left under roof and up technical small corner on great rock. Double bolt belay.
FFA: Neil Monteith & Rich Sonnerdale - 2010-00-00

27 Thumbs Up 92m 24 M4 Walk-off
First pitch is an exciting old school crackline through some major roofs. Full rack including micro cams and several long slings.
Start at crackline through steep wall about 30m left of Thirty Three Years.
FA: John Ewbank 1967 - 1967-00-00 FFA: Neil Monteith & Rich Sonnerdale (P1 only) - 2010-00-00
P1 (25m, 24) The double roof pitch. First roof is bouldery, the second is reachy and pumpy. Finish up fantastic easy corner.
P2 (27m, - M4) Very thin seam crack splitting roof above. Probably requires pitons. Might go free?
P3 (40m, 15) Easy trench crack to top.

○ Ben Jenga Project - verified 20m - Lower-off
Starts just left of TU. Flake to big roof heuco, over this and up nice headwall. Maybe 25ish?

28 Binary Project (Neil) - verified 20m - Lower-off
Lone ring bolted route in between the old school aid lines. Steep start trendIng right then straight up the gorgeous orange wall. Should be 25ish.

29 Survival Day - verified 20m 24 9 bolts Lower-off
Start just right of Thumbs Down on sandy shelf. Right trending wall to big horizontal break. Swing across this then lean back and reach the big jug over the lip. Up featured wall above. Might be grade 23.
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2012-01-28

30 Thumbs Down 87m 13 M4 Walk-off
Another steep aid route through a big ceiling. This one looks harder to free than Thumbs Down. Starts 17m left of Thumbs Up.
FA: John Ewbank FFA: 1967-00-00
P1 (34m, 13 M4) Crack and wall to small ledge. Up to roof with old fixed museum pieces and aid across to headwall. Free up to ledge.
P2 (10m, -) Corner to ledge
P3 (13m, 13 M4) Aid crux. Corner, roof then free to ledge.
P4 (30m, -) Black wall.

31 Please Dry - verified 12m 17 5 bolts Lower-off
Short slabby orange wall 5m left of TD. Wall to fun flake, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top.
FFA: Neil Monteith, Dave Bateman & Ryan Whelan - 2012-00-00

○ PROJECT - Bundy - Road Works 12m - 6 bolts Lower-off
The cute little slab just right of free standing pillar.
FA: Project - Bundy

32 Thunderstruck - verified 42m 24 16 bolts Lower-off
2 pitches, very easy first pitch, and a steep pitch up the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres right of Hells Bells at black wall with FHs.
FFA: Chris Coghill (lead both), Will Monks - 2011-00-00
P1 (20m, 17, 6 bolts) Easy, peasy. You can lower off the big staple at the top of the wall, or much better, climb up to the ledge and do the second pitch. A rap anchor is 5m to the L, looking in, at the top of P2 of Hells Bells.
P2 (22m, 24, 10 bolts) Steep with a punchy low crux, then nice moves to the top.

33 Hells Bells 61m 16 Walk-off
Start at blocky black corner 25m left of TD. There is a rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2, so you can do it as a single pitch and rap. This avoids the vegetated upper pitches.
FFA: J. Davis - 1964-00-00
P1 (10m, 14) Up wall right of corner aiming for a small ledge below orange roof. Single old rusty carrot. Don't stop here - link this with pitch 2.
P2 (8m, 15) Traverse left to arete plugging good gear in the crack under the roof. Belay at rap chain (stainless).
P3 (13m, -) Diagonally left to crack and old bolt belay. Mucho vegeteriano.
P4 (10m, 16) Crack to bolt belay.
P5 (20m, -) Diagonally left for 8m then diagonally right to ledge and tree. Scramble off to the right.

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