climbs are described left to right (East to West/Noth to South), facing the cliff.
go to Ladder of Gloom Area
go to Cave of Soap Area
go to The Blackboard Area
go to Glamorpus Area
go to Glamorpus Wall Proper
go to Bullet Hole Wall
go to Positive Ape Factor Area
go to Wall Thing Area (South-end/West-end)
East Buttress (Pimple Buttress) Area
The good looking bulgy orange buttress just left of the eastern descent gully.○ A 10m 17 X
Left of P somewhere. Marked. A poxy boulder problem. No pro?
Between A and IFY. Marked. Good climbing up to and through the roof (1 BR, 1 RB), and easier but still pleasant up the crack in the headwall (natural protection). Tree belay back from the edge.
★ Look Blue Go Purple 10m 18 Þ Start in scooped alcove right of P. Through gap in the scoop then follow RBs to the apex of the wall. 3 RBs to double RB lower off.
Chris Yeomans, Dale Tweedie 2005-05-25
★ It's For You 10m 18 Þ
Good moves up the wall right of P (2 BRs to 2 RB lower off). The climb stays to the right, using the arete. An extra BR is located high up, in the centre of the face (left of the climb) for an alternate finish.
Mike Law (solo) 1980s
★ Taylor Made 6m 15 Þ
Up and right of IFY. Jugs past 2 FHs. Although Julian reckons it's pretty poxy, everyone else reckons it's a great little warm up!
Julian Anderson
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Ladder of Gloom Area
The descent gully arrives here. It is located 50m south of Pimple Buttress
○ Savage Cabbage 8m 19
5m left of CC, and 30m right of descent gully. Up thin crack then tricky moves left to main crack. Follow this (take care with pro) to new lower off. Often dirty and sometimes inhabited by a (friendly) brown snake.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s
○ Stone Grotties 8m 16 X
2m right of SC, just left of CC. A dangerous lead or dirty toprope up the filthy wall.
The next route is often used as an ascent / descent.
○ Cenotaph Corner 8m 4
The slabby corner crack right of SG.
○ B 9m 25+ X
2m right of CC. Blank wall straight up past two BRs with desperate moves to clip the second BR and move past it, or very easily stepping right.
Mikl Law 1980s
★★★ Ladder of Gloom 12m 19 Þ
Very popular. 10m right of CC. Traverse right to the bottom of the ladder then steeply up. 4 RBs (take care clipping the first) to double RB lower off.
Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s
Start directly below the LoG. Clip RB, big steep dyno to jug then short, strenuous arete (RB). Move left to 2nd RB on LoG and up.
★★★ The Mantle Machine 12m 14
Demoralising for short-arses. Starts 4m right of LoD (just past the low roof with the hole). Move diagonally left mantling overhangs. Take a friend for a horizontal slot, with a BR higher up. Finish just right of LoG.
Hayden Brotchie, N. Timms 1993-09-12
★ Medium Strip 10m 20 Þ
Start as for TMM. Follow the 4 gold FHs up the rounded arete.
Julian Anderson 1998
○ C 12m 4?
5m right of MS. Up the low angled slab to the obvious ramp (BR). Has been mistaken as an ascent / descent route!
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Cave of Soap Area
The big rounded cave with the distinctive overhanging corner crack (Soap), 30m or so right of TMM.○ Sumo 18m 23 Þ
Wall on left side of the Cave of Soap. Stick clip first RB, then traverse left along the lip of the roof past 7 more RBs to a double RB lower off at the end of the roof. Take care with the rock - a lot of it looks pretty friable.
Lloyd Wishart 1997-07-29
★★★ Soap 15m 23
The overhanging corner crack on the left edge of the cave. Up steep crack past jugs then out the roof crack and up.
Giles Bradbury 1980s
○ D (Project) 12m 28? Þ
Heads up Soap for a couple of metres, then breaks out right across the main roof. 5 RBs to chain lower off (above LH).
○ E (Dingo?) 8m 24 Þ
2m right of Soap. Steeply up chips past 3 BRs and RB to double RB lower off.
1m right of E. Steeply up chips past 4 RBs to chain lower off as for LH.
★ Luv Handles 8m 21 Þ X
2m right of F. Steep moves past 5 RBs to chain lower off. 3rd RB is dodgy.
Unknown 2001
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The Blackboard Area
A nice, dead vertical black wall that extends right from the Cave of Soap. Tends to seepquite badly after rain. Unfortunately it suffers from run off after rain so some routes may need a brush every once in a while. The routes on this wall have iron stone edges that makes for great crimpy climbing. During January 2003, most of the routes on this wall were rebolted by the SRC Rebolting Fund.
The right arete of the Cave of Soap. Undercut start, short arete then wall above. 4 RBs in total to lower off. May be harder since the glued on hold near the top ripped off.
James Holbrook, Mike Law 1980s
★ Alison 12m 25 Þ
1m right of 3DW. Up to cave, then thin wall above. 4 RBs.
James Holbrook 1980s
★ The Red Menace 15m 24 Þ
Up A to scoop, traverse right to jug on lip of roof, then up crimpy headwall. 5 RBs to lower off.
Stephen Hawkshaw 2004-03
Gash 12m 16 X
3m right of A. Unpleasant V chimney, often dirty. Take care with pro.
★★ Yesterday's Heroes 12m 17 Þ
Very popular. 3m right of G, marked. Delicate start, L under overlap, trending R to top. 4 RBs to lower off. Direct through overlap is 18.
Venus Kondos 1980s
★ Palm Sunday 12m 21 Þ
1m right of YH. Trend right past 3 spaced RBs on decreasing holds to lower off.
Craig Martin, Harry Wilson 1980s
○ Samantha 10m 20
2m right of PS. Thin face past 2 BRs, then cams to lower off (shared with DC).
Scott Butler, James Holbrrok 1980s
(up elevated onto platform.)
○ Dangerous Currents 6m 22 Þ
Marked. Straight up past two RBs to lower off. Straying right towards Eccles only scores 19.
Matt Raison, Dan Raison 2004
○ Eccles 7m 20 Þ
Just right of DC. Up on crimps past 2 RBs to the lower off above DC.
Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s
○ JHTB 8m 20 X
Right of E. No pro. Hard start.
★ Bill Collins 10m 24 Þ
Just right of elevated platform. Marked. Mantle on jug then thin and sharp face climbing. 3 RBs to lower off. There has been some controversy about the grade of this climb - some people have said it's 25 while others say it's a soft 24.
Mike Law 1980s
★ Gidget / Verdon 15m 22+ Þ
8m right of BC. Ridiculously hard start, then up flake and veer right at 3rd RB to top. 3 RBs in total with no lower off (yet). A variant veers left at the 3rd RB past another 2 RBs to a double RB lower off.
Mike Law 1980s
★★ Butter Knives 12m 28 Þ X
4m right of GV. Sharp and thin past 4 BRs. Originally graded 26, but a sandbag.
Mike Law 1980s
○ Marsala 8m 12
The corner crack at the right hand end of the Blackboard. Layback or faceclimb.
A good beginners route with good protection and easily top roped.
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Glamorpus Area
50m right of the Blackboard is a short, steep pocketed wall.○ G 6m ?? X
At the right hand side of the pocketed wall. One old bolt hole down low, and one manky BR up higher.
○ Julian's Finest Hour 6m 15 X
5m right of G. Up the dirty black wall with dubious natural pro.
Julian Anderson 1990s
○ H 8m 22
Start: Up and right of JFH.
Straight up face on very slick rock. 3 RB’s to double RB lower off.
○ Grumpy Old Men 9m 23
4 metres left of Scones of Doom. Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. Two rings to lower off. Bouldery.
Gavin Portier 2009
○ Up the Duff 8m 22 Þ
2m left of cave. Unattractive. 3 RBs to double RB lower off.
Paul Duff 1997
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Glamorpus Wall Proper
60m right of the Blackboard, an attractive, bulgy orange wall capped with rooves.★★★ Scones of Doom 12m 23 Þ
Start: Far left of cave. Marked. Steeply up past 4 RBs to a double bolt belay just over the roof.
Mikl Law 1980s
★★ Omnopox 12m 24 Þ
3m right of SoD. 3 U bolts, left to double U bolt lower off.
Mikl Law 1980s
★★★ Glamorpus 15m 24 Þ
Start below central hanging arete. Compact wall past 5 RBs, then step left to chain. Original continued out the steep arete.
Mikl Law 1980s
○ Glamour Mum 12m 22
Picking the absolute worst of Glamorpus and Are You My Mother. More mantles than a display home estate. Do the mantle on Glamorpus then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on Are You My Mother.
Anthony Lin 26/07/2009
○ Are You My Pussy 19m 23
A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb Are You My Mother to second bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U-bolt, finishing up Glamorpus.
Barry Jones 2009
★★ Are You My Mother? 12m 25 Þ
Scott Butler 1980s
★ Green Eggs and Ham 12m 25
2m right of AYMM. Up corner, left at roof, corner (3 BRs). Right and up (cams).
Scott Butler 1980s
The following climb is another 30m or so further on.
○ Lentil Lollipops 12m 9
Marked. Steep start, then up the unpleasant chimney / corner.
Geoffrey Heath, James Holbrook 1980s
○ I (Ancient open project) 12m ?? X
3m right of LL. Up steep prow past 2 BRs and 3 FHs.
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Bullet Hole Wall
Around right is a pocketed wall with a low roof on the left end, and a prominent flake up and right. Great climbing, but often crowded.
The left arete of Bullet Hole Wall. Roof and arete passing 5 RBs to lower off.
Scott Butler 1980s
★ Comausminpab 12m 18 Þ
Marked. 2m right of SE. The name is a Navy acronym for "Commander Australian Mine Warfare and Patrol Boat Forces". Roof (RB), then pocketed wall past rebar staple and RBs. RB / U bolt lower off.
○ IGMC 12m 19
Between C and FSP. Roof (RB), then straight up past 4 RB to double RB lower off. Very dirty.
★ Fox / Sox / Pox 12m 18 Þ
Very popular. 2m right of C. Roof, then pocketed wall past 2 rebar staples and 2 RBs to a chain lower off.
★ Natasha 12m 22 Þ X
3m right of FSP. Sustained pockets past 4RB to chain lower off. Thin crux past 3rd RB.
★★ Looks Poxable 12m 21 Þ
Great. 1m right of N. 4 RBs to new double U bolt lower offs.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s
★ Mental Fatigue 11m 18 Þ
The prominent flake 2m right of LP. Popular. Follow flake up and left, then up wall to chain lower off. 4 RBs in total. Direct start past 2 RBs is 21.
James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s
○ Broken Candy 11m 20 X
Start as for MF. Up and right past 2RB (1st shared with MF) and U bolt to double RB lower off. Dirty.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s
○ Torque is Cheap 10m 22
4m right (up slope) from MF. Great wall climbing using some great holds and some small ones as well. Gain the break then venture up the slab to finish.
Gavin Portier 2009
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Positive Ape Factor Area
30m right of the Bullet Hole Wall, a nice orange wall and corner.
Start As for 24. From scoop after bouldery start head left to arete. At the cave, head right (RB). Take care with pro (wires and cams).
James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s
★ 24 12m 21
3m left of the corner. Boulder steep start (stick clip RB), then big crux move past 3rd RB to break. More easily to top. Only worth 20 if you veer left at 3rd RB.
James Holbrook, Scott Butler 1980s
★ Positive Ape Factor 10m 22
The obvious orange corner. Easy up the cracks then a huge reach (crux) to horizontal break. Take care up the final corner - it's quite hard and runout. 2 good BBs.
Scott Butler 1980s
★ Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish) 10m 21
Up PAF to right leading flake. Out flake past bolt.
Giles Bradbury 1980s
○ J (Ancient open project) 10m ??
2m right of PAF. 2 BRs (1st has ancient tat).
○ K (Ancient open project) 10m ??
2m right of J. 1 ancient BR.
★★ Daily Grind 10m 25 Þ
2m right of K. Technical.
Mike Law, James Holbrook 1980s
○ Kenneth's Climb 10m 14
2m right of DG, below cracks. Steep start to pleasant slabby cracks. Double BB belay.
James Holbrook, Greg Christie 1980s
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Wall Thing Area
A small wall at the far right end of the crag. The southern access comes down here.
★ Flake Thing 12m 21
5m right of KC. Right side of arete past bolts and cams.
Scott Butler, James Holbrook 1980s
★ Wall Thing 12m 18 Þ
2m right of FT. Wall past breaks (often sandy) to thin crack. 4 RBs to lower off.
Rohan Reynolds, Michael ? 1980s
○ Boundary Rider 10m 19 Þ
1m right of WT. Straight up past RB and 3 BRs to new lower off. Straying right near the top only scores a 16.
Julian Anderson, Jonas Kuginis 1998-07
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