go to Right Side
go to Right Side Upper
go to Left Side
go to Crack of Dawn
go to Midden Area
go to Pledge a Legend Wall
go to Insomnia Cave Rock
go to Strangler's Corner
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Introduction
A very popular crag located on the south western side of the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.
Access
From the carpark step over to Station Beach (on the estuary side of the peninsula). From here the crag can be seen poking out through the trees, low down on the left hand side of Barrenjoey. Walk 200m to the northern end of the beach (continue past the scattered rocks at the end of the beach) and pick up a single walking track that heads away from the beach, just past the red shed and the lighthouse track (don't head up the lighthouse track!). Follow the track up around the corner of the fence (past a white house), then continue along it for about 100m. Take the first major track off to the right - this meets the cliff directly below the Jezebel block. There is also a large boulder down near the waterline that has a couple of old bolts on it. If anyone has any information I'd love to hear it! Please take care of the place: carry out your own (and other people's) rubbish, stick to the existing tracks and make use of the numerous lower offs and rap points rather than trashing the descent gullies. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here. Crag was rebolted by the SRC in 2009.
Climbs described right to left (east to west), facing the cliff.
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Right Side
The area of cliff heading off to the right (east) from where the track meets the cliff. Nowhere near as popular as the rest of the crag.
Two sandy caves (the "Barrenjoey Hilton") are located just here.
Evil Spuds 6m 14
The overhang.
Gollum's Grope 4m 12
The offwidth.
Pyroclean 4m 7
The chimney.
Zodiac's Pure Vegetables 8m 22
Start: 10m right of H. Up the wall and seam.
Craig D. Martin 1984-02-09
The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together.
Haircut 4m 13
The offwidth.
Solipsism 4m 13
The arete.
Manteau 4m 12
The wall.
Speleolie 4m 9
The crack.
Feetus Position 4m 9
The offwidth.
Exit Tortons 10m 5
3m right of A, below chimney.
Used as a descent route.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
The Great Roof Left Hand Eliminate 8m 19
Start: Start on the ledge under the obvious big roof above the descent route ET. Up the chossy corner to roof. Hand traverse L to arete, up to DBB anchors.
FTRA: Mike Garben 2003-03-01
Long Neck 7m 20
Start: Scramble up then start on block around the arete L of the Great Roof.
Up middle of wall to DBB on top of the roof.
FTRA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003-03-01
Albatross 12m 14 X
Start: 5m right of FF.
Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-09
Frog's Fling 13m 17 X
Start: 1m right of K9.
Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17.
Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1982
K9 10m 17
Start: 2m right of R.
Up the flaring finger crack.
T. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-04
Ratbite 10m 11
Start: Below obvious corner 2m right of WG.
Up the corner.
Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan, Martin Jones 1983-07-04
★ Wild Gravity 12m 21
Start: 2.5m right of TMMDF, below thin flake. Up flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right.
Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin 1983-09
Tchaikovsky Makes My Dog Fart 7m 22
Start: 1.5m right of PWCB.
Variant start to PWCB. Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB.
Mike Law, Craig B. Martin 1985-11-19
★★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket 18m 16
Start: At short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.
Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-07
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Right Side Upper
A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and to the right of PWCB.
★★ Cranky 7m 20 Þ
Start: Marked, on the boulder above and 15m right of PWCB.
Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.
A (Open project) 8m 25+?
The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are inappropriate expansion types and should not be trusted.
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Left Side
The track reaches the base of a huge block just here. Scramble left and up to the base of the main cliff. The following 3 climbs start on top of the block.
Millie 11m 10
Start: 2m right of J. Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB.
★★ Jezebel 11m 9
Start: On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack.
An excellent route for beginners. Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.
Two Steps Forward 11m 13
Start: As for J. Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J.
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1982-11
Carrie Bradshaw 12m 14
Start: 2m left of TSF. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (#0.4 and #0.75 / #1 Camalot) in breaks to a double BB belay.
Niall Doherty 2003-06-08
Starboard Barnacles 12m 14 Þ
Start: Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree). Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.
Johan Verhagen, Dave Stuckey 1984-06-03
Elf Town 12m 14 X
Start: Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay.
Dave Stuckey, Johan Verhagen 1984-06-03
Judgement Day 14m 14
Start: 2m left of ET. Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
★★★ Enterprise 15m 18
Start: 2m left of JD. 4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1983-06
★ Enterprise Variant 15m 17
Start: As for E. Follow flake on right at top.
Craig D. Martin, Craig B.Martin 1983-06
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Crack of Dawn
Start: 2m left of E, at obvious bum crack. Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
Arachibutyrophobia 15m 20
Start: 1m left of CoD. Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.
Peter Ward 1986-06-08
★★ Liquid Insanity 15m 18
Start: 1m left of A. Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.
Glenn Robbins
★★ Marsupial Smearer 18m 18
Start: 1m left of LI. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).
Captain Black
★★ I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For Piker's Variant 18m 18
Start: Marked "ISF". 2m left of MS. Head up wall on right side of rounded arete (cam down low, 2 BRs). Up to crack of MS, and follow this (2 BRs on bulge to left) to break. Up over the block (BR) to belay as for MS.
★ I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For 18m 21
Start: As for ISHFWILFPV. At crack of MS, continue straight up over bulge (2 BRs), staying out of the crack.
Domino 15m 14
Start: Below corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF. Up the corner crack past chockstones, getting harder with height.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
Tropico 15m 15
Start: Marked "AT". 2m left of D. Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO).
★ Cramp Ons 16m 18
Start: Below wall, 2m left of T. Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
★ Wild Ride 16m 16
Start: Marked. 2m left of CO. Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO.
The next climb starts below the south east face of the large boulder teetering on top of the crag above the Wild Ride area (obvious from beach).
★★ Long Flower Noodle 7m 23
Start: Start below middle of face. Up to thread, traverse a bit R then up. DBB.
FTRA: Mike Garben, Jo Maude 2003-01-23
Back to ground level. For all routes from here to HTS descend using the double RB rap anchor above HTS.
★ Hang Over 12m 9
Start: Below crack 1m left of WR. Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
Womb To Tomb 12m 17
Start: 1m left of HO below bulge. Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).
Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-11
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Midden Area
★ Cosmic Ecology 12m 14
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
Cosmic Ecology Variant Start 5m 15
Start: 1m left of CE. Up to join CE.
Craig D. Martin
Lurgi Meets Plate Tectonics 12m 17
Start: As for CEVS. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB.
Craig B. Martin 1983-06
Ways Of Our Lives 15m 22
Start: Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam. Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT.
Mike Meyers, David Hains 1984
Squid Vicious 12m 20
Start: As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential").
Mike Meyers, M. Toakley 1983-06-29
★ Computer Sox 7m 14
Start: 3m left of SV. Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.
Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones 1982-07-11
Cythaul Haul 12m 10
Start: Crack left of CS. Up the crack.
Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity 6m 14
Start: 2m left of CH. Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.
Martin Jones
Sacrilege 4m 12
The Offwidth left of HTS.
The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again 10m 19
Start: Below arete, 1m left of S. Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay.
Benign 10m 20 Þ
Start: 4m left of tPBSA. Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-08-12
Benign Variant Finish 10m 16 Þ
As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish.
Been There, Done That 10m 7
Start: Chimney left of B. Chimney into the bowels of the earth.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
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Pledge a Legend Wall
A good looking wall with a selection of fine routes.
★★ Central Pillar of Mordor 14m 19
Start: Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.
★ Orgasmic 15m 11
Start: Below chimney left of CPoM. Up the chimney (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
★ Sand Syringe 15m 18 X
Start: 3m left of O. Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.
Craig B. Martin, N. Moran 1984-07-01
★ Not Your Average Cab Sav 15m 19
Start: 2m left of SS. Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-22
★★ Pledge a Legend 16m 14
Start: 1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall. Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
Borcat Blues 16m 18
Start: 2m left of PAL. Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL.
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-07
Tangerine Dream 15m 16
Start: 2m left of BB. Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
Cobwebs 15m 18
Start: 2m left of TD. Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD.
Peter Ward, Trevor Carlos 1986-06-17
Celluloid Heroes 10m 10
Start: 8m left of C. Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
Nightingale 10m 7
The chimney left of CH.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
Pox Travels Fast 12m 16
Start: Just left of N. Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB.
Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin
Pinnacle of Peril 16m 15 X
Start: Below arete left of PTF. Straight up exposed and unprotected arete.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
★ Super Exciting Xylophone 16m 21
2m left of PP. Popular. Thin crux up wall (BR) and through overlap then up airy, easy (grade 15) pinnacle (BR, cams, threads). Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however).
Intoxicating Liquor 15m 9
Start: Left of SEX, below crack. Up crack then up chimney above that.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
★ Little Plaything 15m 19/20
Start: 1m left of IL. Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard.
★ Anti Scuttler 15m 18
Start: In very shallow corner left of LP. A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP.
Martin Jones, Craig B. Martin 1982-09-12
★★ Sweet Heart 12m 22
Start: Just left of AS. Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB.
FTRA: Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003
Facet 15m 15
Start: Left of AS, below wide crack. Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
Crack 'n' Up 17m 8
Start: Below offwidth 2m left of F. Up the "lovely" offwidth.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.
★★ Mescalito 12m 19
Start: 2m left of CnU below thin crack. Thin start then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.
★ Mode 14m 16
Start: 2m left of M. 3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.
Warwick Williams, Kevin Melville 2003-10
Abseil Wall 14m 16 X
Start: 2m left of M. Start:2m left of M at seam. Wall and Crack trending left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.
Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team 1970s
★ Pan Pacific Wall 14m 16
Start: 2m left of AW. Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay.
★ Long Line of Leanings 15m 19
Start: Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW.
Craig B. Martin, Mike Law 1985-12-08
Wrong Line of Leanings 15m 22
Start: Start in left side of LLoL cave. Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge.
Mike Garben, Garry Pienaar 2003-01-15
★★ Pulse of Fools 12m 25 Þ
Start: 5m left of LLL. Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.
Mike Law 1985-12-02
Suer 6m 10
Start: Below corner crack left of PoF. Up the crack.
Krill 6m 13
The offwidth left of S.
Ikon Direct 10m 19 Þ
Start: Below middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin, Roy Chick 1984-09-22
Ikon 10m 17 Þ
Start: As for ID. Silly. Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up.
Craig D. Martin, Craig B. Martin 1984-06
Rays Moppy 10m 11
Start: Marked M, 10m left of I. Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay.
Ray Haak, John Shaw 2005-07-16
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Insomnia Cave Rock
A huge boulder located above and behind Ikon, with an obvious chossy cave.
Observatory 10m 15
Start: 5m right of cave. Over bulge to ledge then up crack to double BB.
Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones 1983-07-25
Leon the Klepto Cat 12m 19 X
Start: At right hand edge of cave. Once a test piece. Straight up to small cave then trend left using underclings and bridging (BR) to crack through roof of cave. Up to break (cams) then over bulge and up slab (minimal pro). Double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin, Martin Jones 1983-02-16
★ Tillies and Triangles 10m 23
Start: 4m left of LtKC. Up arete to lip of cave (BR). Crank straight up over lip and continue up blank slab (2 BRs). Double BB belay.
Craig B. Martin 1984-09-22
Orbs Dilated Glory 10m 12
Start: 3m left of TaT. Straight up wall.
Craig B. Martin (solo)
No Sorry it Makes Me Fart 9m 14
Start: 2m left of ODG. Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission.
Mark O'Sullivan, Ray Haak 2004-05
Baby Steps 9m 10
Start: As for NSiMMF. On top of bulge step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam to double BB belay.
Niall Doherty (self belayed, badly - does that make it a solo?) 2005-10-16
More Tea Vicar? 8m 11
Start: Below the blunt arete a few metres left of BS. Up arete (natural pro) to double BB belay.
Mark O'Sullivan, Ray Haak 2004-05
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Strangler's Corner
A short west facing wall located about 75m around past Insomnia Cave Rock and lower down. Distinguished by bright orange rock.
It's unclear whether these climbs are described right to left or left to right. Still, it's worth wandering around and taking a look, since the rock is pretty good.
Home Made Jamb 7m 10
A shame it's so short. Up the lovely layback crack.
Seller's Pirate 4m 8
The crack.
Never a Frown 4m 13
The wall.
Inertia 4m 11
The crack.
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