Bluebell

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Jump to Main Wall left-side
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Access

Park at the end of Bluebell Rd, Heathcote. Hop the gate onto the fire trail, then left, and go around back of 7 houses. The crag is located down to the right, and you can either rap in (off chains or trees) at the back of 4th house, or scramble down right from the end of 7th house to the base of the cliff.
Routes described right to left, facing the cliff.

Mini Crag

The following 5 routes are on the little orange wall before the main wall.

1 Duncan Direct Start 6m 10 1Þ
Start below short orange wall. Up wall passing RB to lower off.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

2 Duncan 7m 11 2Þ
Start left of small corner. Up over small bulge then veer right to loweroff.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

3 Zara 7m 14 1Þ
2m right of A. Up wall past high RB (stick clip) to lower off shared with A.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

★ 4 Anika 8m 16 2Þ
At left end of wall. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower off.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

5 Nathan 9m 16 3Þ
The girdle traverse route. Start at A and move across and up bast bolts on Z and D to finish on anchors as for D.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23

Main Wall

1 Trust Me I Used Araldite 7m 15 X
At far right hand end of main wall. Up flake (FH) and through bulge (crux) then up headwall (FH). 1st FH has been placed too low, so I'd recommend preclipping the 2nd with a long sling (otherwise you'll be pulling the crux on a ground fall).
Shae Constantine 1992

2 Al's Nightmare 8m 22 X
3m left of TMIUA. Top rope route, with incomplete bolting.
Alan Smith

★ 3 Heathcote Homo 10m 18 3Þ
2m L of AN. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move to gain anchors.
Jason Lammers 2008

4 Screaming Cockatoos 10m 18? 4Þ
2m left of HH, below obvious flake. Shared start with S, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts (ring, carrot, ring) to shared lower off with HH. Hard for 18
Shano 1992

★★ 5 Sparky 10m 16 Þ
Start as for SC. Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 FHs and optional #2 cam to double U bolt shared lower off with M. Fantastic climbing.
David Barnes 1992

★ 6 Meltdown 10m 19 3Þ
Just left of S. Straight up past 3 BRs to double U bolt shared lower off with S. Rebolted.
David Barnes 1992

★ 7 97% McDougall Free 12m 22 Þ
The direct line just left of M. Stay out of the corner at the start. 4 RB to lower off. Good bargin shopping at 22, could be 21.
Jason Lammers 2006-12-05

★★ 8 Welcome to the Body Shop 12m 21 Þ
Best 21 in Sydney. Start left of M. 3RB + 2FH to chain. Sustained climbing on excellent, steep, juggy rock. Rebolted 2008
David Barnes 1992

★★ 9 Bitch'n 12m 23 5Þ
3m L of WttBS from lower ledge. 3FH then RB. More steepness. Delicate over bulge and then get on trucken to the end.
David Barnes 1993

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Main Wall left-side

★★ 10 [Linkup] Bundy in a Bottle Shop 18m 23 Þ
Start 1.5m L of B, as for RB. Clip first FH on RB then move up and right to a big side pull (U bolt). Traverse right into B, clipping 2 bolts on B then move up into pumpy steep territory past 2 more U bolts. Finish at lower off on WttBS.
Jason Lammers 2006-05

★★★ 11 Ruthless Babe 12m 23 Þ
1.5m L of B below big rooves. An awesome, sustained route featuring a full body length roof and some of the best rock in Sydney. Was 22 until a big hold snapped off (hmmmmm....maybe the rock isn't that good!). 5RB (2nd RB is next to old FH.) to DRB lower off. Tends to seep after rain.
David Barnes 1992

★★ 12 [Linkup] Ruthless Shop 18m 23
Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancy moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.

★★ 13 Gatekeeper 13m 23 Þ
Start as for RB. Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM. Avoids the crux of DBoM, but is still a classic!
David Barnes 1992

There is a FH here between 11(RB) and 14(DBoM). Looks the bolt is rusted.
★★13.5 [Linkup] Guerilla Radio 16m 26
Do crux on DBoM, traverse right and do crux on G. Link into BiaBS and finish at anchors. El Pumpo supremo!

★★ 14 Darling Buds of Mayhem 15m 25 Þ
6m L of RB(11), below arete where tree's root is. 1st RB is up high to start, then diagonally R past 4 new U bolts. A true Sydney classic!
Mike Law 1992

15 Divine Intervention 15m 23 Þ
Start as for DBoM. Up DBoM for 3 bolts, then head right past 3 BRs to DBB at top.

★★ 16 Flying Kites 15m 23 Þ
Start as for DBoM. Up pumpy arete, passing 4 RBs.
G. Morton 1993

★ 17 Heel and Toe Polka 15m 24 Þ
Climb as for DBoM to 2nd bolt and then big move and clip U bolt on left. Up to carrot and thru roof, clip another U bolt, then top out. DBB lower off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.
Jason Lammers 2006-02

18 Lobotomised 15m 18
2m left of DBoM. Ramble up left from the tree of DBoM to ledges (cam) then up over bulges (2 BRs and a FH). Triple BBs.
Chris Wallace 1992

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