Lost World

15 minutes walk, Shady for most of the day

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Acknowledgement
Updates from Neil Monteith & Mike Law

Introduction
One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small number of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory.

Access

To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street.
Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track below the houses.
Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) across a diagonal access lane, go 10m further west and then pick up a trail that runs straight down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff.
Turn right (west) and walk along a trail near the clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform).
Rap in from here.

Or walk to the base of the crag, scramble down small cliffettes directly below the carpark.

An easy scramble to the base also exists 100 m right (facing cliff) of the main wall, marked by a large orange gum tree. This provides access to the micro-area.

Micro Area
★ Tull's Ball-tearer 12m 18 X
Could not be located. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s

The following two climbs are on the small east facing wall.
Screaming Pretty 17m 20 X
In middle of east facing wall. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s

Grunting and Groaning 17m 20 X
2m left of SP. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s

Main Wall
Located about 75m further left of the previous section is this impressive 25m high wall

A 20m ?? X
A striking corner crack with a few manky bolts.

1 Dirt Trawler 20m 23 6Þ
Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.

2 Dirt Trawler Left Variant 22m 21 7Þ
About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to Dirt Trawler. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.

3 Nightcrawler (project) 20m 8Þ
The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?
Project Neil Monteith

★★★ 4 Keep Off the Grass 20m 25 Þ
About 15m left of A. Marked PT. Originally started in from left above roof. Start as for Fun and Destruction then after first bolt go right and straight up through roof and up twin seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009
Neil Mahant c1988

★★★ 5 Fun and Destruction 20m 23 7Þ
AKA Fun and Danger (erroneous). Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009
Neil Mahant c1988

★ 6 Cat Burglar 26m 23 7Þ
A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for Eudaimonia to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Nightcrawler.
Neil Mahant c1988

★★ 7 Eudaimonia 20m 22 6Þ
1m left of the chipped "PT". A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.
Neil Mahant c1988

8 Superforce 20m 25 Þ
Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)
Neil Mahant c1988

★ 9 Soup or Force 15 23 Þ
Start as for Superforce. Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.
Mike Law 2009

Lost World Cave
Walk a further 100m left from the main wall to find this very steep orange cave. Only one bolted project at the moment, and some minor potential for very short steep routes.

Scoop Project 7Þ
Long traverse in from the right across horizontals, then through scoopy roof and up corner.
Project: Neil Montieth

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