Updated on 22 July 2011.
To enlarge topo or pic, click them. or view web version from the end this page. Go to the end.
go to Left Side of Main Wall
go to Head Injuries Wall Area
go to Hercules Wall
go to The Cathedral Cave
go to Tarmac Traverse Area
go to Right Hand Slabs
go to Angels Buttress
Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.
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Left Side of Main Wall
○ Der Zauberlehrling (not in topo) 10m 19
The short corner/roof and slabby arete that the path ducks under before arriving at the C Slab ampitheatre. #1 friend or equivalent for crack/mantle then 1RB up the arete to loweroffs. Can scramble onto ledge from left and clip bolt if you don't have any friends.
Stu Dobbie, May 2011
★ Caesarean Section (open project) 10m 22?
Start below the boulder, 5m left of the Pointy Arete project. Up the slab past U bolts to lower off.
Has this been ticked (Insert your name here)
○ Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral 10m 16
The corner immediately left of the pointy arete.
Stu Dobbie, Gavin Critchley May 2011
○ pointy arete project 10m 22?
Pointy arete 6m R of CS
★★ Layback Corner 12m 18
Start 10m right of CS, in a right facing layback corner that stops at 8m. Head up the corner to laybacking and kneebar past flare, stay right and up arete to anchor. Don't Jamb! May have been done before, tho' there were many loose flakes removed. Needs a bit of traffic. Bring thin to hand sized cams?
FRA Mikl Law 2011
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Head Injuries Wall Area
★ Head Injuries 8m 13 Þ
Walk down and right 20m and up to right facing corner crack
Graham Fairbairn 1989
★★★ Young Bumblies 10m 21 Þ
Slabby classic. Climb H.I. and head left and belay on Ubolt. Up flake and steep wall (4 Ubolts). Lower off all the way to the deck
Graham Fairbairn 1989
★★ Surface Paradise 20m 22 Þ
Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate
Mikl 2011
★ Surface Paradise DS 10m 23 3Þ
Up seam right of Head Injuries and up arete to join Surface Paradise. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break..
mikl 2011
★★ The Dynamic Duo 18m 21 Þ
Start 2m R of HI, just left of a wide crack. Head left up the flake and onto the steep wall. There 'may' be some bridging into the corner but can be done without at 23.
Kent Heffernan 1989
★ Jaded Cravings 16m 23 Þ
Start 3m R of HI, in wide crack. Up the EZ arete. Gather your thoughts in a small cave, then bounce on to the wall and up using the crack at one point.
David Barnes 1990
★★ Failure is your friend 18m 22 Þ
Follow Jaded Cravings till after the second bolt then head rightwards. After the big break head right and up.
(Left hand bolts above break are another project.)
(Left hand bolts above break are another project.)
Bundy 9/04/2011
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Hercules Wall
★★★ Anticoagulant 15m 23 Þ
Up corner 15m R of HI (confusingly marked SSS) to cave then left and continue up leaning crack bulge and on to top. Weird, funky fun.
Graham Fairbairn 1989 to bulge (which is probabaly the crux), Extension to top by mikl 1990
★★ Bordella de Merde 8m 27 Þ
Open project. The 3 RB's to double RB lower off above Anticoagulant, a great line, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)
Mike Law 1991
★★ Expectorant 15m 24 Þ
Start up corner as for Anticoagulant and Hercules then up through caves on jugs till you get spat off. V5 maybe?
mikl 2011
★★ Hercules 15m 22 5Þ
Originally started as for Imogen, but extra bolts in that means most people missed the crux by bridging up groove and stepping left. Easier to start as for Anticoagulant in easy corner (with initials SSS for some reason!). Up, then step right and up line of bolts.
Kent Heffernan 1989
★★★ Hercules Direct Finish 25m 23 Þ
From the top of Hercules, blast up the arete past hard move to slabby finish to lower off (rebolted 2008)
Mike Law 1990
★★ Imogen 15m 22 Þ
Start just left of Cathedral Cave. Straight up blunt arete. Way cool rock climbing.
Jason Lammers 5-11-2008
○ Fat Crack 30 ?
Wide squeeze chimney corner crack which may or may not have been climbed. Thrutchy!
○ Axe Grinder 8m 15 Þ
Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff to hanging belay off rings and old carrots. 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there.
David Barnes 1989-09
★★ Bundy's Been Boltin' 15m 20 Þ
Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20 to the first lower off. The one move extension to the second lower-offs is 22. From here you can get into the wide crack and thrutch up then go right to join Axe Grinder at 23 (Cameron Taylor, The Shute).
Jason Lammers 2007
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The Cathedral Cave
The large chossy cave located just here is called The Cathedral, and gives the crag its name.
★★★ Wacky Tabacci 25m 19 Þ
If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' pro, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The obvious chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chokstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose.
Graham Fairbairn 1989
★★ Retro Crack 25m 20 Þ
The bolted crack line 5m rifght of WT and 1.5m left of Get Out of Town. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete, but a jamb or two may be needed. Could easily be lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts. The top half had previously been bolted, and probably traversed in from one the cracks on the right.
FRA Mikl 2011 (but may have been done before on trad.)
Rob Hodyl demonstrating how to climb wide cracks in the rain on Retro Crack.
The following two climbs cross each other at the pea pod at half height. A good variant is to start up V, step left to GOoT at about 5m and then follow it to the top.
★★ Get Out of Town 25m 20
Start on face 1m left of V. Hard off the ground to RB, and trad up to pea pod. Move right and clip Ubolt and chain on IG then right again to join line of RBs (about 2m R of crack) to lower off.
Kent Heffernan 1989
★★ Vitez 25m 18
Start: Below the obvious recessed corner crack.
Follow crack up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Up this and follow the crack to the top past some carrots.
P. Farkas 1989
★ Vitez LH finish 25m 17
Step left onto flake above peapod and past 2 ring bolts to top
unknown
★ Inchworm Groove 10m 27
Once the hardest trad line in The Shire/Sydney/NSW maybe. Start below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or on to top.
Mike Law 1990
★★★ Ozone Action 20m 18
Sydney Classic trad route at the grade! Hard weird start. Take a few cams and slings.
Start: Below the obvious water groove / flake feature. Follow the flake line / water groove past a two RBs, sling the spike (maybe hang some gear off it to keep it on) and throw in a cam (the bolts out left are tempting but may make your higher gear fall out), then either right up jugs for a few moves then back left, or straight up the flake. Cams then up flake and top wall (BR) to lower-offs or top out.
Start: Below the obvious water groove / flake feature. Follow the flake line / water groove past a two RBs, sling the spike (maybe hang some gear off it to keep it on) and throw in a cam (the bolts out left are tempting but may make your higher gear fall out), then either right up jugs for a few moves then back left, or straight up the flake. Cams then up flake and top wall (BR) to lower-offs or top out.
Graham Fairbairn 1989
★★★ Creature Feature 22m 23 Þ
Great moves on the top wall. You can sling the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a possible sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and up the thin slab and left again past left hand line of bolts to lower off.
Graham Fairbairn 1989
★★★ Gutterfingers 20m 21 Þ
Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off as for CF.
Vanessa Peterson 2011
★★ Jack and the Beanstalk 8m 14
Left of GW at tree. Up, using the suffering tree to start. 2 Ubolts and cam. Finish up one of the upper routes
Christina Fairbairn 1989
The next climb used to finish at the Tarmac Traverse. The tree that used to be climbed to gain the rock has now gone.
○ Guerrilla Warfare 8m 14? 2Þ
Directly below CQ. Start used to involve the tree, but it's long gone, so the grade is probably much higher now. 2 BRs.
Kent Heffernan 1989
○ Ghostrider 8 23
The short hard little problem under NN. Hard start to pocket then crimp your way to the chain under NN. Probably easier if your tall.
Jason Lammers 2006
Tarmac Traverse Area
The following 5 routes all start from the Tarmac Traverse - the obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a belay / rap chain (clip the first bolt on CC as a runner). If it is crowded you could also belay from the ground below the intended route. The following four routes have new lower-offs, please use your own carabiners if top-roping to save wear and tear on the bolts.
○ Aero Arete 8m 13
Just right of arete. Up, using pro to the left (as for the top of OA) or clip the bolts on ST.
Steve Turcsanyi 1989
★ Suicidal Tendencies 8m 16 3Þ
Next route left. 3 Ubolts to lower off. Don't stray left or right!
Graham Fairbairn 1989
★ Cathedral Quack 8m 16 3Þ
Next line to the left. Up (3 Ubolts) to lower off shared with ST. Named for a group of ducks that used to frequent the crag.
Kent Heffernan 1989
★ Neuron Nerd 8m 16 3Þ
Step right from the chains and up.
Graham Fairbairn 1989
★ Cosmic Cruncher 8m 16 4Þ
The right most line. Ubolts to lower off (shared with NN).
Kent Heffernan 1989
Shoot That Dog 10m 14
The chimney.Looks hard
Kent Heffernan 1989
★★ Mushroom Mantle 12m 20 3Þ
Start below flake. Up the flake with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off.
Graham Fairbairn 1989
★ Cranking Like a Demon 12m 24 3Þ
Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off.
Mike Law 1990
Extending away to the right of the main wall are a series of smooth slabs that seep a bit after rain. You can walk across from the main wall, or veer off right from the open grassy area further down the hill. Much harder and more powerful than they look.
Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.
★★ Isis 12m 23 Þ
Start: 25m right of the main wall, Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves
Mike Law 1990
★★★ Glacis 18m 30 Þ
3m right of Isis. Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks to anchor.
Mike Law 1990
★★★ Moss Ghyll Grooves 10m 24 Þ
20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall. Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy...
Mike Law 1990
★★ Take me to the Tropics 11m 25 Þ
A bit contrived, up MGG then move right and back left to anchors. Looks desperate!
Cam Taylor 2008
★★★ In the Groove 15m 25 Þ
Right of MGG. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack.
Mike Law 1990
There are 2 random old carrots high on this wall. Good luck!
★★ Legless 20m 24 Þ
10m right of ITG. Stick clip high Ubolt and go through hard start, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre move at top.
Mike Law 1991-12
(A creek tumbles down the hill just here. There are 3 slab climbs on the Trauma Wall, slab climbing is hard work.)
★★ Spite 15m 25 Þ
Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece. Stick clip high Ubolt and go.
Mike Law 1990
★★ Mr Squiggle 10m 20 Þ
8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite. Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors.
FRA Mike Law 1990, there were some 70's style bolts on this route
★★★ Ms Pat 10m 21 Þ
4m right of MS. Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80's it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts!
Mike Law 1989
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Angels Buttress
★★ Wire Brush and Dettol 18m 20 Þ
About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it.
FRA Mike Law, May 2011
○ arete project ?m ? Þ
short arete 2m R of WB+D
project by ?
★★ Tourniquet 18m 21
Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth, Stick clip BR at 4m. and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.
FRA Stu Dobbie, May 2011
★★ Buffalo Bum 18m 18
The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Torniquet
Mike Law, May 2011
○ Supergroove (Stu project)
Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum
○ Coffin 12m 24 Þ
Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Supergroove. aka Boffin in a Coffin.
mikl 2011
Escaping the crack on Coffin
★ TweedleBum 12m 22
Wide crack through roof 4m right of Coffin project. take a #4 camalot and a gardening glove if your fists are small.
Mikl Law june 2011
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