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History
In the early days, given how short the cliff is, most of the easier routes at Bangor were considered top-rope problems. The ethics of the day considered it poor form to bolt such short problems, so a small group of local climbers pursued the art of top-roping, including off the chockstone wedged halfway along the cliffline. Dave Humphries (Dr. Dave) got the bolts rolling during the early '80s. He experimented with loxons, dynabolts, even early versions of glue capsules but finally reverted to good old bashies, establishing a swathe of the crags classics, including: End of the Decade, Python and his business-generating Sports Injuries Clinic. It's fair to say that Dave very much led the way with a small group of locals, such as Peter Faill, Steve Turcsanyi, Dave Weekes, Peter Farkas, Glenn Short, a young Hayden Wallace and Rupert the original lunch-stealing slobbery dog all chipping in over the years. Fun in the shade and a cold beer on top of the cliff, watching the sunset over the Woronora River became the Bangor way. Attitudes changed a bit and by the end of the 80s all the old top-rope problems, and quite a few new harder ones, had sprouted protection and names. There are a few harder things at Bangor now, but the focus remains on light-hearted, sociable cragging. Bring the esky.
Climbs are described right(R) to left(L), facing the cliff.
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Right of Normal Gully
These cool routes are at the far R of crag (when facing crag.)
○ Arete Problem V8
A square cut arête 80m R of TW.
Joe
○ Egg Rings 10m 18 4Þ
Fun jug pulling up steep wall on R end of wall. Very well protected but has no lower-off. DRB at 3m back at the top.
★★ The Whorl 13m 16 Þ
At the far R-hand end of the crag, in the trees. Marked. A bouldery start leads to interesting climbing up a nice wall (be careful of the bridge of rock at half height). 4 BRs to double bolt belay.
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill
★ Dorothy May 13m 16 Þ
Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m L of TW. Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay L up the juggy arête on carrots.
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill
There is a popular well chalked bouldering cave at the base of the crag here.
○ Lean Too 12m 15
The deep crack 1m L of DM.
○ Shire Riot 12m 20 4Þ
The line of very shiny but dubious rings on R side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.
★ The Shire Republic 12m 20 Þ
The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.
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The Normal descent gully reaches the base of the crag here.
The low angled face 2m L of the descent gully. Up the face with no pro. There are TR bolts.
★ NFM 8m 21 Þ
5m L of Rainman, just under arete. Marked. Up to RB then Lwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top.
○ Killer's Kidneys 8m 21 3Þ
Marked "KK". 3m L of NFM.
H. Wallace 1992
★ Pyromaniac 7m 18 3Þ
Starts 3m L of KK. Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct for the tick.
Matt Portman, Neill Crabb
The next wall is well featured and very popular.
★ Dynamic Winter 10m 20 X
On R-hand edge of bulging buttress L of P. Marked. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying R of AB. No pro until after the crux. Double BBs.
H. Wallace 1992
★★ Andrew's Bulge 11m 15 Þ
A Sydney classic! Start marked with painted hand. 1m L of DW. Rebolted 2009. The original bulging Andrew during the first ascent, "Be the rock".
Andrew (I guess) and Peter Faill
○ Get Tracked 10m 14
The crack 0.5m L of AB.
G. Quinn (solo) 1985
○ Side Tracked 10m 10
0.5m L of GT. Seam (small wires) with small thread at top.
★ Pitted Arete 10m 16
Start as for ST. Up the crack then L up the R side of the rounded arete.
Steve Turcsanyi 1987
○ Mars Apple 8m 21 Þ
1m L of PA. Marked T2. Desperate start. Rebolted 2009
Steve Turcsanyi 1987
○ Zulu Trainer 10m 13 Þ
1m L of MA. Nice to the ledge then doddle to top. New bolts 2009.
Steve Turcsanyi 1987
○ Mike's Photogenic Crack 10m 12
Corner crack L of ZT. Bouldery start then easy.
Mike (I guess)
○ Sports Injury Clinic 10m 21+ X
1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.
Dave Humphries, Peter Faill
The climbs on the main wall get a bit confused from this point around to Python. My Girl and C are easy to locate (by the nice new bolts), but some of the others, who knows?
○ Tits and Bits 8m 20 X
1m L of SIC. 2 FHs.
P. Farkas 1989-07
○ Christmas Nuts 10m 8
1m L of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney.
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The following five climbs are on the huge block in front (South) of the main wall.
★ Midway 8m 13 3Þ
On L side of the block if you stand between main wall and the block, and facing the block. The wall faces East. Hard start, then trending L, juggy to anchors shared with Farway.
★ Farway 8m 13 3Þ
4m L, 1 step down of Midway to start, trending R to anchors shared with Midway.
○ Tilba Tilba 8m 6
North side of the boulder, facing the main wall. Mantle then up. Easy but no pro.
★ Voodoo Traverse 15m 18 X
Start as for TT. Traverse R to second corner ( above the finish of Monkey Bars), then up.
★ Death of a Black Boy 8m 22 3Þ
On R side of the block if you stand between main wall and the block, and facing the block. Above massacred black boy. Start as for Monkey Bars, out R through roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to Ubolts anchors.
H. Wallace 1992
★★★ The Three Sides Traverse 18m V3 / V4
On the L-hand end of the downhill face. Traverse R following hand traverse line. Round corner and traverse uphill (crux). Round corner and traverse short low overhung section to finish in cave.
Nick Clow 2003-07
★★ Monkey Bars 5m 20 5Þ
Also known as Lucky's Roof. Monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to the lower offs.
Unknown
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Go Go Gadget Area
(Back to the main wall.)
Steve Turcsanyi 1985
○ Go, Go, Gadget Arms 9m 22
Marked GGG. 2m L of FS, on R-hand side of blank wall. Thin and desperate moves up the wall. Top rope only, although Hayden did lead it.
H. Wallace 1992
★★ 3 Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix 10m 24 Þ
Battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. R of MG and L of the original GGG, at vertical seam. Technical!
Jason Lammers 2010
★ My Girl 10m 23 Þ
4m R of In Depth. A thin boulder problem with bolts. 2 RBs to giant U.
Trevor Cooper-Williams 1992-01-14
○ C 10m ?? X
1m L of MG. 3 manky BRs.
★ D 10m 21 Þ
1m L of C. 2 FHs to 2RB lower off - Good
Chris Wallace 1992
○ A Loving Hole 10m 20 Þ
Up wall on new RBs. Just R of corner crack. A little contrived but what did you expect?
H. Wallace 1992
○ Bangor Tiger 10m 19
Start as for ALH. Traverse L and up. "How many micro routes can we squish in, tigger?"
○ In Depth 10m 9
Corner crack 0.25m L of ALH.
★★★ Arachnology for Kids Traverse 9m V4 / V5
Start as for ID. Traverse R to finish at arete of 'Fixed Steps'. Nick says "This boulder problem is a corker. It took quite a while (maybe 5 or 6 trips) from initially conceiving it, dabbling and then working on it to finally finishing off. I was so pleased with the quality of it in the end because the key sequence is both technical and sustained in difficulty."
Nick Clow 2003-11-24
○ Python Direct 10m 19+ X
Just L of ID. 1 BR then runout to top.
★ Python 10m 16 Þ
1m L of PD. 2 FHs up the arete to double bolt belay.
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★ Grandma's Python 10m 16
Start: L of P, R-hand side in cave. DRB
★ Grandma's Wheelchair 10m 16
Start: 1m L of GP, on L-hand side of cave. Up then R past a BR and cam placements to a double bolt belay. Dave Humphries
○ Get Walking 9m 14
Start as for GW but straight up.
Steve Turcsanyi (solo) 1988
○ Skulduggery 9m 16 X
2m L of GW at cave. Up past manky BR then awkwardly over bulge. Easily to top.
★ End of the Decade 11m 20 Þ
Start below traverse line, 3m L of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete. 2 FHs and optional cam on low angled headwall. Double BBs.
Dave Humphries
★ End of the Century 10m 22 Þ
A direct version of EOD past RBs to lower off. Good rock.
Jason Lammers 2009
○ End of the Line 12m 18
Start as for GC, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to RB and up flake as for EotC. Some trad gear needed.
T. Meredith, D. Burgess 2011
Corner crack just L of EotD. Pleasant bridging up corner. 2 BRs out R or large cams.
○ Buzz Boys Beat 9m 19
0.5m L of GC. Up bulgy blocks. Take cams.
P. Farkas 1989
★ Zip 8m 16 Þ
4m L of BBB. Deceptive start, strenuous first clip (BR) then up easy wall past a 2nd BR. Double bolt belay.
G. Quinn 1986
○ Unzip 10m 17 Þ
2m L of Z under roof. Boulder R under roof then up as for Z.
○ Billabong 5m 18 Þ
5m L of U in middle of wall. Thin wall climbing past 1? BR.
G. Quinn 1986
The second descent gully reaches the base of the cliff here.
○ Ali 5m 15
The jam crack 2m L of the descent gully.
○ Slobbery Dog 6m 15
Corner 6m L of A.Monument to Rupert, Peter Faill's black dog, who had a penchant for stealing climbers' lunches while they were on belay duty. If you have problems with the decent gullies, Rupert used to be able to run up and down them with ease.
Peter Faill and Dave Humphries
○ Rockclimber's Waltz 7m 12 X
Marked. Up offwidth and (loose looking!) blocks. Two variants at top.
○ Head Butte 6m 16
4m L of RW. Ugly looking crack with reverse head jam.
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