go to Middle Wall
go to Motocross Wall
go to Lost and found Wall
go to Faraway Wall
Fossil Wall
This wall is located 5 minutes wall downhill from the parking area. Short climbs on good rock.
Head west over embankment near a water drain and follow the faint watercourse downhill for 200m to reach cliff top. Turn right and scramble down.
Routes are described left to right (facing cliff).
1 Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 6m Þ
2.5m L of VTV. Up past 2 RB finishing at same anchors as VTV.
2 Vanstone the Vampire 7m 16 2Þ
Just right of descent gully. Up short wall.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
3 Children Overboard 7m 22 2Þ
Up thin face.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
4 Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 6m 2Þ
3m L of CO
5 Political Prisoner 7m 17 2Þ
Straight up passing 2 breaks and an orange grey streak. Shorties can add a grade.
Rod Wills, Sep 2003
6 Ruddock the Ring Wraith 12m 20 3Þ
Follow flake right over slab to top.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
★★ 7 The Mind has Mountains 10m 20 3Þ
Up pockets then trend right over bulge.
Vanessa Wills, Aug 2003
★★★ 8 Captain Underpants and the Attack of the Wicked Wedgie Woman 10m 18 3Þ
The first route at Mt Kuringai. Up pockets then diagonal break through bulge. Pumpy!
Rod Wills, Sep 2003
★ 9 Professor Poopy Pants 8m 20 3Þ
Diagonal line of bolts. Short but stout.
Rod Wills, Aug 2004
10 Open Project 10m 4Þ
The crack with 4 RBs.
★ Legoland 15m 16 4Þ
Up obvious line with ledges.
Vanessa Wills, Sep 2003
○ Working from Home 50m 16
Start as for L. Rising traverse following ledge / break / crack to finish on RtRW. Broken into 2 pitches with belay on Captain Underpants.
Andrew Ingles, Colin Larter 2005
★ Elbow Abrasions 15m 16 4Þ
Escapes the crux of UM. Up UM to 3rd bolt then step left and finish up L.
Vanessa Wills, Sep 2003
★★ Unguarded Moment 15m 21 4Þ
At right hand end of wall. Great technical climbing up improbable line. Up slabby face to mantle, step R to crux over bulge. Possibly harder if you're short.
Chris Yoemans, April 2004
Return to Top
Middle Wall
A short wall midway between Fossil Wall and Motocross Wall. To approach directly, locate a large gum tree halfway along the mesh fence of the Motocross Compound. Turn left and follow cairns down through the bush to the top of the crag. Best access is down left side facing wall.
★ Best Of The Shaved 9m 19 4Þ
Start as for CFZ. Step L at 2nd bolt then up.
David Filan, 30-12-2007
★ Care Factor Zero 8m 18 3Þ
Left side of slab.
Rod Wills, 6-5-2007
★ Ecstatic Addict 10m 18 3Þ
3m R of CFZ. Up centre of wall, left side of obvious feature.
Kevin Van Tinburg, 6-5-2007
★ Midge Madness 10m 21 4Þ
2m R of EA. Up centre of wall on R side of obvious feature.
Vanessa Wills, Dec 2004
○ Project (Closed) 6m 2Þ
10m R of MM. Right side of cave, tending straight up out of cave.
○ Project (Closed) 6m 2Þ
Possibly another project with the same start.
○ Well It Ain't Everest 7m 17 2Þ
8m R of Project. Steep start to slabby finish. Shared lower-offs or walk off.
Rod Wills, 2007
○ Well it Ain't K2 7m 17 2Þ
2m R of WIAE. Steep start to slabby finish. Shared loweroffs or walk off.
Rod Wills, 2007
Return to Top
A long broken wall of approx 100 metres in length, ranging in height from 10-15 metres. From slab to roofs its got it all.
Continue past locked gate along the fire trail to motocross course. Veer left along Gundah ridge track for 5 minutes until it takes a sharp right turn. Here take a foot track on your left to the cliff top and scramble down gully. You will hit the cliff base at "The Grudge".
○ The Grudge 12m 18 4Þ
Staight up face on wall directly after access gully. Top out, belay off trees at the top.
Rod Wills, Oct 2004
○ Extinction Never Felt So Good 12m 17 4Þ
15m R of TG on next prominent wall. Up over two ledges to face and crux.
Rod Wills, Oct 2004
★ Dinosaurs Must Die 12m 19 4Þ
2m R of ENFSG. Up L side of cave onto tricky face.
Rod Wills, Oct 2003
★ Life On Hold 12m 20 4Þ
Hard start. Up R side of slab over small rooflet and onto slab.
Vanessa Wills, Oct 2003
○ Petrified Wood 10m 20 2Þ
Up corner block through break over roof. Will it ever get repeated? Shared lower offs.
Vanessa Wills, Dec 2003
○ A Dream, Nothing More 10m 15
Corner R of PW. Up corner crack (RB) then up easy corner (gear).
Vanessa Wills, Nov 2003
○ Fossilized Thought 10m 18 3Þ
Start as for ADNM. Boulder up face left of corner crack, step across right to face. Then easily up slab to hard finish. Bridging in the corner up high only gets you 15.
Vanessa Wills, Nov 2003
○ Open Project 8m 2Þ
Around corner on next wall. Over rooflet onto face. Go for it!
★★ Ragged Claw 15m 23 Þ
Start in middle of next face around arete. Over bulge, onto slab then thin face.
Vanessa Wills, Oct 2004
○ Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 15m 6Þ
Start on adjacent wall about 5m R of RC at thin seam.
○ Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 15m 7Þ
Starts on bulging ramp about 1.5m L of PS. Up to 2nd RB then traverse L past 2 RBs then up past 3 RBs to DBB half way along wall.
○ Project (Closed) - Tim Mayer 18m 5Þ
As for previous project. Straight up wall past 5 RBs to DBB.
○ Pinkie Shredder 15m 18
On the next wall is a large obvious splitter crack.
Duane White, Dec 2004
★★★ The Devil Inside 15m 23 4Þ
1m R of PS. Bouldery start up prow then onto thin technical face.
Vanessa Wills, Oct 2004
★★★ Heresy 15m 22 5Þ
2m R of TDI. A crimpy classic by all accounts! Bouldery start over bulge onto face.
Rod Wills, Sep 2004
○ Project (Closed) 15m 3Þ
2m R of H. Up wall and arete.
○ Goblin Grotto 15m 15M2
L of FG in grotto. Up crack, aid through roof and up small gully tending left over boulders to top.
Colin Larter, June 2004
★ Goofy Foot 10m 19 Þ
Up right side of cave via jug to top.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
○ Open Project 15m 22?-24?
(i think this Open Project has been completed already by a precious contributor.)
10m R of GF. Over ledge through middle of "wave" shaped wall. 4RBs.
○ Malibu Rider 10m 13-16?
Start as for open project (cam in break), then traverse R across slab (RB) to corner crack then easily up to lower offs.
Vanessa Wills (solo), Mar 2004
○ Grommet 10m 17
A direct start to MR, straight up crack.
Vanessa Wills, Jul 2004
○ Skank 10m 21 3Þ
1m R of G. Up through rooflet to shallow corner.
Tim Mayer, 15-4-2007
○ Unfinished Project 10m X
Up through some very hard territory in the middle of the cave. Still needs another bolt.
○ Guns, Germs and Steel 10m 18
5m past cave. The slab to small bulging crack line.
Luke Atkinson, 2004
○ Ball Buster 12m 23 3Þ
Up face and left side of weakness.
Tim Mayer, 15-4-2007
★★ Somewhere Down The Barrel 12m 21 4Þ
5m R of GGAS. Up orange face and weakness.
Elliot Braham, Apr 2004
Return to Top
Follow the fire trail around to right after Motocross Wall access gully, then left along walking trail along ridge line down the hill.
Turn off main walkway from the cairn to rock shelf on your left, look over edge (eh?) and follow cairns down to Lost & Found Wall.
(Can also be accessed from Faraway Wall, from the top turning right, instead of left along cliff top to gap in big cave, then down the hill. Sounds bush bashing.)
go to Furnace Environs Area
go to 50m Left of the access gully
go to Right of the access gully
go to 1st Up Hill
go to Slab, Right of big cave
go to 2nd Up Hill
go to Carbon Credits Area
Routes described left to right (facing cliff).
Furnace Environs Area
The first few climbs are 300m L of the access gully. Scramble uphill onto ledge.
○ Shoe Lizard 12m 17
Start at far left end of wall in little cave under block. Crawl up through hole then up good hand crack to ledge.
Colin Larter 2008
○ Great Balls of Fire 15m 22 Þ
Sharp edgy face to bigger holds and ledge, then up through orange top section.
Vanessa Wills, Apr 2007
★ Solar Flare 15m 22 Þ
Up pocketed face down low following flake at the top.
Vanessa Wills, Apr 2007
○ The Welsh Route 8m 10
Starts at R end of wall. Up cracks on left side of gully.
Bryony Ruscoe 2007
Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall
50m Left of the access gully
○ Bumphlegm 10m 15
Start at base of big block 3m L of GH. Scramble up short chimney to top of block. Up seam to top.
Colin Larter 2007
○ Goblin Horde 10m 8
Chimney 1m L of LF.
Colin Larter 2007
○ Lactose Free 13m 16 4Þ
Straight up featured face.
Rod Wills, Nov 2007
○ Ding Bat 11m 14 3Þ
2m R of LF. Up juggy wall.
Kevin Van Tilburg 2006
★ Pig Shootin 15m 13
Dale Tweedie, Feb 2004
★★ Bummagedon 15m 20 5Þ
Start 3m R of PS. Up steep scoops over bulge.
Rod Wills 2005
★ Tingles 16m 21 4Þ
2M R of B and L of the crack. Directly up the wall.
Jason Lammers 10-5-2008
○ Kodak Moment 15m 15
Elliot Braham, Feb 2004
Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall
Right of the access gully
○ Project - Vanessa 4Þ
2m R of gully. Straight up face through ledge/cave to top.
★ Dog Beta 15m 22(20) 6Þ
From L side of small cave, step L at 2nd bolt, then up to ledge, then step R to shared anchors.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
★★ Dead Letter Office 15m 23(21) 6Þ
Same Start as DB, straight up past L of small cave to lower offs.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
★ Lichen a Virgin Dog 15m 18 6Þ
Same start as IADL, L at 1st bolt. Straight up above cave to shared lower off with DLO.
Tony Tang 2006
★ It's A Dog's Life 15m 19 6Þ
Up middle of face just R of small cave, over ledge to slab.
Rod Wills, Feb 2006
★★ Foundling 15m 17 6Þ
2m R of IADL, up past thin flake to arête.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
★ Lost Property 15m 15(17)
2m R of F. Up obvious crack tending L to finish up arête of F.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall
1st Up Hill
★★ Woken Furies 10m 19 4Þ
Start up hill, up steep wall on L of big cave.
Rod Wills, Feb 2006
○ STW 6m 18 3Þ
3m R of WF in big cave. small roof to lower offs.
Andrew Fell, Jul 2007
Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall
Slab, Right of big cave
The next three climbs are on slab Right of big cave. 2m apart. ○ Roxie and Matey Go Quantity Surveying 12m 20 5Þ
Up slab to short steep headwall.
Vanessa Wills, Jun 2006
○ Scorpion 13m 18 6Þ
Rod Wills, Mar 2006
○ Broke Rib Mountain 12m 14 4Þ
Rod Wills, Nov 2006
Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall
2nd Up Hill
along the corner up the hill
○ Worth The Walk? 6m 15
20m L of Bill. Obvious off width roof crack. Not the most glorious of routes, but fun little moves and surprisingly easy.
Greg Hislop 9-8-2008
○ Bill 10m 14
Wide flared crack. Mmmmm, sounds great!
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
○ Ben 10m 17
2m R of Bill. Up crack, steepish start.
Vanessa Wills, Feb 2006
the next three climbs are on slabs 20m further along past corner.
○ Intelligent Design 9m 16 3Þ
Mantle start, then straight up blunt arete.
Rod Wills, Dec 2006
○ Evolution 9m 17 3Þ
2m R of arete. Up tending L to shared anchors. Stay off arete until 3rd bolt.
Rod Wills, Dec 2006
○ The Meaning of Life 11m 15 4Þ
Straight up middle of slab.
Rod Wills, Dec 2006
Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall
Carbon Credits Area
100m further along past big cave
★ Farewell to Fear 13m 19 6Þ
Start up on ledge R of big cave. Step L at 2nd bolt traversing L then up arete.
Vanessa Wills, June 2006
○ Fearless 12m 24 Þ
Start off the block as for D. Takes the low traverse via tiny holds and pockets then thinly up to rejoin FTF at prominent horizontal break. Best protected by placing a long sling from the 3rd bolt after doing FTF.
Vanessa Wills 2009
○ Dendrobium 12m 18 6Þ
Start for as FTF. Bridge up orange face to airy headwall. Do not use higher second set of lower offs as rock there could be unstable.
Vanessa Wills 1-4-2006
○ Ficus 12m 9
Up easy corner R of D. Sounds like another classic!
Vanessa Wills 1-4-2006
★★ Siliconciousness 14m 22 5Þ
Start R of F on main face. Up past balancy flake following orange streak.
Vanessa Wills 1-7-2006
★★★ Carbon Credits 18m 24 7Þ
5m R of S. Up thin face onto sharp arête and continue up to the top.
Vanessa Wills 2007
★★★ She Who Must Be Obeyed 20m 20 8Þ
5m R of CC. Up middle of wall following obvious ramp.
Rod Wills, July 2006
★ Tickfest 20m 22 6Þ
5m R of SWMBO. Hard start up through shallow cave to head wall.
Vanessa Wills, June 2006
★★ Aerospace 16m 18 5Þ
2m R of T. Straight up faint arête tending L at the top. Slightly run out at the top.
Vanessa Wills, June 2006
○ Black Box 14m 21 5Þ
2m R of A, straight up the face.
Vanessa Wills 2007
○ Wing Commander 12m 17 4Þ
2m R of BB. Straight up the face on big holds. Shared lower offs.
Vanessa Wills 2007
★ ZoZo The Mandarin Fiend 15m 18
200m R of WC, past big cave. Up obvious R-leaning orange crack to top.
Vanessa Wills, Anthony Geogheghan, 2007
Return to the top of Lost and Found Wall
Return to Top of Mt Kuring-Gai
Faraway Wall
This is one of the best areas at MtK with good rock to 20m height. Also features a great outlook over Berowra creek. From Motocross Wall, opposite Dinosaurs Must Die, head downhill on a cairned path. Halfway down you will pass a large boulder on your left. At the cliff top turn left until you hit some rock ramps that will bring you to the right hand end of the climbing area.
Access is gained by walking around to left under chossy roof at far left of crag. Scramble up to top of block. Up middle of orange streak on great rock and holds.
Jason Lammers 2007
2 Birdhouse In Your Soul 10m 21 2Þ
2m R of SBOPL. Stick clip 1st bolt and launch out and up, to finish as for SBOPL. Dont blow second clip as this could result in a grounder.
Jason Lammers 2005
3 Low Voltage 9m 18 2Þ
On the next face. Up middle of face to lower offs at halfway.
Rod Wills 1-11-2004
★ 4 High Voltage 18m 24 6Þ
An extension to LV, continuing straight up the face.
Daniel Webster 21-4-2007
★ 5 Death Adder 15m 19 X
3m R of LV under roof. Through roof then step left to arete and up before traversing out right across lip of cave and up to anchors.
Vanessa Wills 1-12-2004
★★ 6 A New Way of Living 13m 20 5Þ
5m R of DA. Up to R face to thread/bollard runner, step left across corner/crack to 1st bolt (hidden from ground - long draw). Follow juggy step face to anchors.
Chris Yeomans 1-9-2005
7 The Angry Goblin 15m 18 X
Up corner crack/crack, under roof, finish at anchors for TDCOM. Be wary of loose rock when pulling on rock, belayer should wear a helmet.
Colin Larter 1-12-2005
★ 8 The Dark Con of Man 15m 22 8Þ
3m R of TAG. Up middle face tending right at start through fun pumpy moves down low. Intially bolted by Rod who eventually admitted defeat and gave it to Vanessa!
Vanessa Wills 1-4-2007
★★★ 9 Vitruvian Man 20m 23 6Þ
6m R of TDCOM. Up stepped arete to sit-down rest. Blast up and right past a dynamic move to reach scoop and up beautiful orange face.
Stephen Hawkshaw 1-11-2004
★★★ 10 The Memory Cathedral 20m 22 5Þ
3m R of VM. Straight up right side of orange face and scoop to finish as for VM.
Vanessa Wills 1-11-2004
11 The Happy Goblin 10m 15
1m R of MC. Up corner/crack.
Colin Larter 1-2-2006
12 Kiss and Make Up 12m 22 4Þ
1m R of THG. Straight up face between corner and cave.
Greg Hislop 2007
The Mischievous Leprechaun 10m 16 X
2m L of PLC. Start in cave, swing up and out of cave then up crack. Very little protection for top half.
Colin Larter, August 2009
★ 13 Peruvian Love Child 10m 14 2Þ
4m R of KAMU. Up left side of shorter wall, 2m R of cave.
Rod Wills 1-11-2004
○ Phyto-Bezoar 10m 9
4m R of PLC. Up juggy crack in middle of shorter wall.
Vanessa Wills (solo) 1-10-2004
★ 15 Chilli in Chile 8m 20 2Þ
3m R of PB. Up thin face past pockets.
Vanessa Wills 1-11-2004
○ Istanbul (not Constantinople) 8m 16 2Þ
3m R of CIC. Pocket to edge then up jugs. Nice moves. Add a grade if you're short.
Jason Lammers 1-11-2004
The Underworld
A shortish slabby wall around 10m high with steeper stuff at the left hand end.
At Faraway Wall as soon as you scamble down access cliff to base, head left along base of cliff for 50-100m then head straight down the hill. Alternatively if at Lost and Found just keep heading along cliff line for about 300m after Zozo. Either way its a bit of a bush bash.
★ Summer Roll For Your Soul 8m 17 4Þ
Up left side of weakness. Fun jug hauling and mantling.
Kevin Van Tilburg 6-7-2008
★ Hard Candy 8m 18 4Þ
2m R of SRFYS. Up right crack, onto face at first bolt and straight up face.
Rod Wills 6-7-2008
○ Project - Dave 7m 3Þ
4m R of HC
○ Shrinky Dink 7m 14 3Þ
1m R of crack up arete. Up crack stepping R onto face at 3rd bolt and up.
Kevin Van Tilburg 6-7-2008
★ Final Atonement 7m 18 3Þ
2m R of SD, up blank face. Fingery start and top bouldery finish.
○ Project - Kev 7m 3Þ
5m R of FA, L side of shallow cave in middle of wall.
○ Crapola 7m 16 3Þ
10m R of Kev's project. L side of cave onto blank slab.
No comments:
Post a Comment