27 August 2012
19 August 2012
Mt Alexandra
The source I posted for Mt Alexandra was too old to use. The routes i climbed were not on it.
I'll re-post it with fully updated info sometimes.
27 July 2012
Lost World
15 minutes walk, Shady for most of the day
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Acknowledgement
Updates from Neil Monteith & Mike Law
Introduction
One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small number of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory.
Access
To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street.
Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track below the houses.
Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) across a diagonal access lane, go 10m further west and then pick up a trail that runs straight down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff.
Turn right (west) and walk along a trail near the clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform).
Rap in from here.
Or walk to the base of the crag, scramble down small cliffettes directly below the carpark.
An easy scramble to the base also exists 100 m right (facing cliff) of the main wall, marked by a large orange gum tree. This provides access to the micro-area.
Micro Area
★ Tull's Ball-tearer 12m 18 X
Could not be located. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s
The following two climbs are on the small east facing wall.
Screaming Pretty 17m 20 X
In middle of east facing wall. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s
Grunting and Groaning 17m 20 X
2m left of SP. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s
Main Wall
Located about 75m further left of the previous section is this impressive 25m high wall
A 20m ?? X
A striking corner crack with a few manky bolts.
1 Dirt Trawler 20m 23 6Þ
Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.
2 Dirt Trawler Left Variant 22m 21 7Þ
About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to Dirt Trawler. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.
3 Nightcrawler (project) 20m 8Þ
The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?
Project Neil Monteith
★★★ 4 Keep Off the Grass 20m 25 Þ
About 15m left of A. Marked PT. Originally started in from left above roof. Start as for Fun and Destruction then after first bolt go right and straight up through roof and up twin seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009
Neil Mahant c1988
★★★ 5 Fun and Destruction 20m 23 7Þ
AKA Fun and Danger (erroneous). Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009
Neil Mahant c1988
★ 6 Cat Burglar 26m 23 7Þ
A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for Eudaimonia to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Nightcrawler.
Neil Mahant c1988
★★ 7 Eudaimonia 20m 22 6Þ
1m left of the chipped "PT". A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.
Neil Mahant c1988
8 Superforce 20m 25 Þ
Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)
Neil Mahant c1988
★ 9 Soup or Force 15 23 Þ
Start as for Superforce. Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.
Mike Law 2009
Lost World Cave
Walk a further 100m left from the main wall to find this very steep orange cave. Only one bolted project at the moment, and some minor potential for very short steep routes.
Scoop Project 7Þ
Long traverse in from the right across horizontals, then through scoopy roof and up corner.
Project: Neil Montieth
Return to the top of Main Wall
To enlarge map or topo click them. They will be downloaded, and stored in your Media browser.
Or view Web Version from the end of this page (Mobile version is default when using mobile phone.)
Jump to the end & click 'View web version' below 'Home.'
Jump to Main Wall
Acknowledgement
Updates from Neil Monteith & Mike Law
Introduction
One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small number of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory.
Access
Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track below the houses.
Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) across a diagonal access lane, go 10m further west and then pick up a trail that runs straight down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff.
Turn right (west) and walk along a trail near the clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform).
Rap in from here.
Or walk to the base of the crag, scramble down small cliffettes directly below the carpark.
An easy scramble to the base also exists 100 m right (facing cliff) of the main wall, marked by a large orange gum tree. This provides access to the micro-area.
Micro Area
★ Tull's Ball-tearer 12m 18 X
Could not be located. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s
The following two climbs are on the small east facing wall.
Screaming Pretty 17m 20 X
In middle of east facing wall. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s
Grunting and Groaning 17m 20 X
2m left of SP. BRs (likely to be manky).
Mike Law 1980s
Located about 75m further left of the previous section is this impressive 25m high wall
A 20m ?? X
A striking corner crack with a few manky bolts.
1 Dirt Trawler 20m 23 6Þ
Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.
2 Dirt Trawler Left Variant 22m 21 7Þ
About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to Dirt Trawler. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.
3 Nightcrawler (project) 20m 8Þ
The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?
Project Neil Monteith
★★★ 4 Keep Off the Grass 20m 25 Þ
About 15m left of A. Marked PT. Originally started in from left above roof. Start as for Fun and Destruction then after first bolt go right and straight up through roof and up twin seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009
Neil Mahant c1988
★★★ 5 Fun and Destruction 20m 23 7Þ
AKA Fun and Danger (erroneous). Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009
Neil Mahant c1988
★ 6 Cat Burglar 26m 23 7Þ
A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for Eudaimonia to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Nightcrawler.
Neil Mahant c1988
★★ 7 Eudaimonia 20m 22 6Þ
1m left of the chipped "PT". A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.
Neil Mahant c1988
8 Superforce 20m 25 Þ
Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)
Neil Mahant c1988
★ 9 Soup or Force 15 23 Þ
Start as for Superforce. Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.
Mike Law 2009
Lost World Cave
Walk a further 100m left from the main wall to find this very steep orange cave. Only one bolted project at the moment, and some minor potential for very short steep routes.
Scoop Project 7Þ
Long traverse in from the right across horizontals, then through scoopy roof and up corner.
Project: Neil Montieth
Return to the top of Main Wall
20 July 2012
Bluebell
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Access
Park at the end of Bluebell Rd, Heathcote. Hop the gate onto the fire trail, then left, and go around back of 7 houses. The crag is located down to the right, and you can either rap in (off chains or trees) at the back of 4th house, or scramble down right from the end of 7th house to the base of the cliff.
Routes described right to left, facing the cliff.
Mini Crag
The following 5 routes are on the little orange wall before the main wall.
1 Duncan Direct Start 6m 10 1Þ
Start below short orange wall. Up wall passing RB to lower off.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
2 Duncan 7m 11 2Þ
Start left of small corner. Up over small bulge then veer right to loweroff.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
3 Zara 7m 14 1Þ
2m right of A. Up wall past high RB (stick clip) to lower off shared with A.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
★ 4 Anika 8m 16 2Þ
At left end of wall. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower off.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
5 Nathan 9m 16 3Þ
The girdle traverse route. Start at A and move across and up bast bolts on Z and D to finish on anchors as for D.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
Main Wall
1 Trust Me I Used Araldite 7m 15 X
At far right hand end of main wall. Up flake (FH) and through bulge (crux) then up headwall (FH). 1st FH has been placed too low, so I'd recommend preclipping the 2nd with a long sling (otherwise you'll be pulling the crux on a ground fall).
Shae Constantine 1992
2 Al's Nightmare 8m 22 X
3m left of TMIUA. Top rope route, with incomplete bolting.
Alan Smith
★ 3 Heathcote Homo 10m 18 3Þ
2m L of AN. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move to gain anchors.
Jason Lammers 2008
4 Screaming Cockatoos 10m 18? 4Þ
2m left of HH, below obvious flake. Shared start with S, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts (ring, carrot, ring) to shared lower off with HH. Hard for 18
Shano 1992
★★ 5 Sparky 10m 16 Þ
Start as for SC. Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 FHs and optional #2 cam to double U bolt shared lower off with M. Fantastic climbing.
David Barnes 1992
★ 6 Meltdown 10m 19 3Þ
Just left of S. Straight up past 3 BRs to double U bolt shared lower off with S. Rebolted.
David Barnes 1992
★ 7 97% McDougall Free 12m 22 Þ
The direct line just left of M. Stay out of the corner at the start. 4 RB to lower off. Good bargin shopping at 22, could be 21.
Jason Lammers 2006-12-05
★★ 8 Welcome to the Body Shop 12m 21 Þ
Best 21 in Sydney. Start left of M. 3RB + 2FH to chain. Sustained climbing on excellent, steep, juggy rock. Rebolted 2008
David Barnes 1992
★★ 9 Bitch'n 12m 23 5Þ
3m L of WttBS from lower ledge. 3FH then RB. More steepness. Delicate over bulge and then get on trucken to the end.
David Barnes 1993
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Main Wall left-side
★★ 10 [Linkup] Bundy in a Bottle Shop 18m 23 Þ
Start 1.5m L of B, as for RB. Clip first FH on RB then move up and right to a big side pull (U bolt). Traverse right into B, clipping 2 bolts on B then move up into pumpy steep territory past 2 more U bolts. Finish at lower off on WttBS.
Jason Lammers 2006-05
★★★ 11 Ruthless Babe 12m 23 Þ
1.5m L of B below big rooves. An awesome, sustained route featuring a full body length roof and some of the best rock in Sydney. Was 22 until a big hold snapped off (hmmmmm....maybe the rock isn't that good!). 5RB (2nd RB is next to old FH.) to DRB lower off. Tends to seep after rain.
David Barnes 1992
★★ 12 [Linkup] Ruthless Shop 18m 23
Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancy moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.
★★ 13 Gatekeeper 13m 23 Þ
Start as for RB. Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM. Avoids the crux of DBoM, but is still a classic!
David Barnes 1992
There is a FH here between 11(RB) and 14(DBoM). Looks the bolt is rusted.
★★13.5 [Linkup] Guerilla Radio 16m 26
Do crux on DBoM, traverse right and do crux on G. Link into BiaBS and finish at anchors. El Pumpo supremo!
★★ 14 Darling Buds of Mayhem 15m 25 Þ
6m L of RB(11), below arete where tree's root is. 1st RB is up high to start, then diagonally R past 4 new U bolts. A true Sydney classic!
Mike Law 1992
15 Divine Intervention 15m 23 Þ
Start as for DBoM. Up DBoM for 3 bolts, then head right past 3 BRs to DBB at top.
★★ 16 Flying Kites 15m 23 Þ
Start as for DBoM. Up pumpy arete, passing 4 RBs.
G. Morton 1993
★ 17 Heel and Toe Polka 15m 24 Þ
Climb as for DBoM to 2nd bolt and then big move and clip U bolt on left. Up to carrot and thru roof, clip another U bolt, then top out. DBB lower off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.
Jason Lammers 2006-02
18 Lobotomised 15m 18
2m left of DBoM. Ramble up left from the tree of DBoM to ledges (cam) then up over bulges (2 BRs and a FH). Triple BBs.
Chris Wallace 1992
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Back to the top of Main Wall left-side
Back to the Bluebell TOP
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Jump to Main Wall left-side
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Access
Park at the end of Bluebell Rd, Heathcote. Hop the gate onto the fire trail, then left, and go around back of 7 houses. The crag is located down to the right, and you can either rap in (off chains or trees) at the back of 4th house, or scramble down right from the end of 7th house to the base of the cliff.
Routes described right to left, facing the cliff.
Mini Crag
The following 5 routes are on the little orange wall before the main wall.
1 Duncan Direct Start 6m 10 1Þ
Start below short orange wall. Up wall passing RB to lower off.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
2 Duncan 7m 11 2Þ
Start left of small corner. Up over small bulge then veer right to loweroff.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
3 Zara 7m 14 1Þ
2m right of A. Up wall past high RB (stick clip) to lower off shared with A.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
★ 4 Anika 8m 16 2Þ
At left end of wall. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower off.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
5 Nathan 9m 16 3Þ
The girdle traverse route. Start at A and move across and up bast bolts on Z and D to finish on anchors as for D.
Jason Lammers 2006-10-23
1 Trust Me I Used Araldite 7m 15 X
At far right hand end of main wall. Up flake (FH) and through bulge (crux) then up headwall (FH). 1st FH has been placed too low, so I'd recommend preclipping the 2nd with a long sling (otherwise you'll be pulling the crux on a ground fall).
Shae Constantine 1992
2 Al's Nightmare 8m 22 X
3m left of TMIUA. Top rope route, with incomplete bolting.
Alan Smith
★ 3 Heathcote Homo 10m 18 3Þ
2m L of AN. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move to gain anchors.
Jason Lammers 2008
4 Screaming Cockatoos 10m 18? 4Þ
2m left of HH, below obvious flake. Shared start with S, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts (ring, carrot, ring) to shared lower off with HH. Hard for 18
Shano 1992
★★ 5 Sparky 10m 16 Þ
Start as for SC. Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 FHs and optional #2 cam to double U bolt shared lower off with M. Fantastic climbing.
David Barnes 1992
★ 6 Meltdown 10m 19 3Þ
Just left of S. Straight up past 3 BRs to double U bolt shared lower off with S. Rebolted.
David Barnes 1992
★ 7 97% McDougall Free 12m 22 Þ
The direct line just left of M. Stay out of the corner at the start. 4 RB to lower off. Good bargin shopping at 22, could be 21.
Jason Lammers 2006-12-05
★★ 8 Welcome to the Body Shop 12m 21 Þ
Best 21 in Sydney. Start left of M. 3RB + 2FH to chain. Sustained climbing on excellent, steep, juggy rock. Rebolted 2008
David Barnes 1992
★★ 9 Bitch'n 12m 23 5Þ
3m L of WttBS from lower ledge. 3FH then RB. More steepness. Delicate over bulge and then get on trucken to the end.
David Barnes 1993
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Jump to the end
★★ 10 [Linkup] Bundy in a Bottle Shop 18m 23 Þ
Start 1.5m L of B, as for RB. Clip first FH on RB then move up and right to a big side pull (U bolt). Traverse right into B, clipping 2 bolts on B then move up into pumpy steep territory past 2 more U bolts. Finish at lower off on WttBS.
Jason Lammers 2006-05
★★★ 11 Ruthless Babe 12m 23 Þ
1.5m L of B below big rooves. An awesome, sustained route featuring a full body length roof and some of the best rock in Sydney. Was 22 until a big hold snapped off (hmmmmm....maybe the rock isn't that good!). 5RB (2nd RB is next to old FH.) to DRB lower off. Tends to seep after rain.
David Barnes 1992
★★ 12 [Linkup] Ruthless Shop 18m 23
Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancy moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.
★★ 13 Gatekeeper 13m 23 Þ
Start as for RB. Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM. Avoids the crux of DBoM, but is still a classic!
David Barnes 1992
There is a FH here between 11(RB) and 14(DBoM). Looks the bolt is rusted.
★★13.5 [Linkup] Guerilla Radio 16m 26
Do crux on DBoM, traverse right and do crux on G. Link into BiaBS and finish at anchors. El Pumpo supremo!
★★ 14 Darling Buds of Mayhem 15m 25 Þ
6m L of RB(11), below arete where tree's root is. 1st RB is up high to start, then diagonally R past 4 new U bolts. A true Sydney classic!
Mike Law 1992
15 Divine Intervention 15m 23 Þ
Start as for DBoM. Up DBoM for 3 bolts, then head right past 3 BRs to DBB at top.
★★ 16 Flying Kites 15m 23 Þ
Start as for DBoM. Up pumpy arete, passing 4 RBs.
G. Morton 1993
★ 17 Heel and Toe Polka 15m 24 Þ
Climb as for DBoM to 2nd bolt and then big move and clip U bolt on left. Up to carrot and thru roof, clip another U bolt, then top out. DBB lower off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.
Jason Lammers 2006-02
18 Lobotomised 15m 18
2m left of DBoM. Ramble up left from the tree of DBoM to ledges (cam) then up over bulges (2 BRs and a FH). Triple BBs.
Chris Wallace 1992
Back to the top of Main Wall
Back to the top of Main Wall left-side
Back to the Bluebell TOP
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07 May 2012
Alfords Point
Climbs described left to right (south to north), facing the cliff.
O Green Frogs and Liver 6m 16 Þ
L of main wall. 2 BRs to double BB.
Shae Constantine 1994
O No Answers 6m 23 Þ
Start below orange streak, L of main wall. Thin and bulgy. Three FHs.
Chris Wallace 1993
★★ Suburbanitis 16m 18 6Þ
Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on L side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then R and up to lower-off anchor. Recently rebolted with rings. Was 16, but with inflation now 18. If you reach R for the large hold at the 2nd BR its a bit easier.
David Barnes 1993
★ Brown Hornet 16m 17 6Þ
Start 1m R of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend R for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S. Was 15 until The Alfords Point Regrading Committee fixed that.
Chris Wallace 1993
★★ Brother Sun 17m 19 6Þ
A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big L facing flake. Lower-off anchor. Retrobolted recently - was originally led with one bolt.
★★★ Sister Moon 17m 21 6Þ
2m R of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless. Retrobolted. Lower-off anchor at top.
★ Fabulous Muppet Show 5m 18
The arete. Four BRs to double BB. Avoid the desperate dyno start by coming in from the R.
Shae Constantine 1994
★ Fabulous Muppet Show Direct Start 14m 23 Þ
Directly below FMS. Stick clip BR then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS.
Doug Smith 1998
Mad Bolter 7m 20
Short roof climb through middle of small cave above FMS. Poxy expansion bolts need replacing.
Gully
A gully splits the cliff just here. The described climbs in this guide only cover half the actual routes on this section of cliff. There are lines of carrots every few meters all the way along.
O Necropolis Kidney 15m 18 Þ
R of the gully. Short slab to shallow seam. 4 BRs to double BB.
Chris Wallace 1993
O Viva La Papa 15m 19
Tricky slab, then orange stone to overhang. 3 BRs and cams.
David Barnes 1994
★ Show Us Your Form 15m 21
Roof. BR, large cam and 2 FHs to double BB.
David Barnes 1994
O Give Me Souls 15m 23M1
Stick clip first BR. Head steeply up and L (FH) and up arete. Wall (2 BRs and large cams).
David Barnes 1994
O Sideline Jack 14m 16 Þ
R side of rooves. 3 BRs to double BB.
David Barnes 1993
O Green Frogs and Liver 6m 16 Þ
L of main wall. 2 BRs to double BB.
Shae Constantine 1994
O No Answers 6m 23 Þ
Start below orange streak, L of main wall. Thin and bulgy. Three FHs.
Chris Wallace 1993
★★ Suburbanitis 16m 18 6Þ
Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on L side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then R and up to lower-off anchor. Recently rebolted with rings. Was 16, but with inflation now 18. If you reach R for the large hold at the 2nd BR its a bit easier.
David Barnes 1993
★ Brown Hornet 16m 17 6Þ
Start 1m R of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend R for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S. Was 15 until The Alfords Point Regrading Committee fixed that.
Chris Wallace 1993
★★ Brother Sun 17m 19 6Þ
A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big L facing flake. Lower-off anchor. Retrobolted recently - was originally led with one bolt.
★★★ Sister Moon 17m 21 6Þ
2m R of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless. Retrobolted. Lower-off anchor at top.
★ Fabulous Muppet Show 5m 18
The arete. Four BRs to double BB. Avoid the desperate dyno start by coming in from the R.
Shae Constantine 1994
★ Fabulous Muppet Show Direct Start 14m 23 Þ
Directly below FMS. Stick clip BR then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS.
Doug Smith 1998
Mad Bolter 7m 20
Short roof climb through middle of small cave above FMS. Poxy expansion bolts need replacing.
Gully
A gully splits the cliff just here. The described climbs in this guide only cover half the actual routes on this section of cliff. There are lines of carrots every few meters all the way along.
O Necropolis Kidney 15m 18 Þ
R of the gully. Short slab to shallow seam. 4 BRs to double BB.
Chris Wallace 1993
O Viva La Papa 15m 19
Tricky slab, then orange stone to overhang. 3 BRs and cams.
David Barnes 1994
★ Show Us Your Form 15m 21
Roof. BR, large cam and 2 FHs to double BB.
David Barnes 1994
O Give Me Souls 15m 23M1
Stick clip first BR. Head steeply up and L (FH) and up arete. Wall (2 BRs and large cams).
David Barnes 1994
O Sideline Jack 14m 16 Þ
R side of rooves. 3 BRs to double BB.
David Barnes 1993
13 February 2012
Historic Wells
Historic Wells
Acknowledgement
Glenn Short, John Smoothy and Mitch Warren.
Access
There are 2 approaches:
1. Walk for 5 mins past The Way of All Flesh (28) at Barden's crag, way past Mind Over Matter (marked) until you reach the grey and black slab with rings on it next to a slightly overhanging wall with routes on the right of the obvious easy diagonal crack (Treebeard Wall).
2. Park at Barden's Lookout carpark. Take the obvious foottrack left looking out from the carpark area, back towards Mt. Vic. Walk for a few minutes to some bends in the track and an obvious metre wide track running off to the right, towards the cliff. Follow it to the top of a short gully with a fixed rope, ladder, rungs and more fixed rope. Down to bottom and turn left. Either way, you will now be at the base of the first easy black slabs of the Historic Wells area. The roped gully is shorter if only visiting this area, but it is not far from Barden's and Damien's Staircase is a cruisy way down.
Tree Beard Area
The following climbs start just past Rod Young's original descent gully, which has been re-equipped with ropes and paraphenalia. (head right, facing the cliff) If coming from Barden's just follow the track to the black slab with the large chains on top, which is way past the rather obvious Mind over Matter.
O The Cat that Fought Back 15m 14 Þ
Left-most route on wall with chossy overhang above. Very weird clip in centre of route. Chain.
Mitch Warren 2011
★ Dirty Beasts 17m 15
First route on the black rock. Chain.
Sam Puchala 2011
★ Boatbuilding for Clancy 10m 17 Þ
Just left of the diagonal easy crack. Ridiculously hard move in centre. Mitch reckons it's 15. DRBB
Roslin Forrest 2011
★★ Back to Back 20m 13
The juggy diagonal crack separating the two short walls. Nice climbing, with great gear. Step left at top around bulge. Lower-offs shared with BfC.
Rod Young, Sue Morton 1985
★ Statistical Scare Tactics 16m 20 Þ
1m right BtB. Nice rock but difficult to stay out of the crack. Take care through the bulge to the anchors. DRBB
Steve Hawkshaw 2004
O Evil Deeds with Good Intentions 13m 24 Þ
2m right. Thin and sharp.
Jacindie Jackson, Mitch Warren 2011
O Ed's 24 12m 24? Þ
Marked by large 24.
Ed Rutherford 2009
★ Starseed 12m 20? Þ
Sam Puchala
★★ Tree Beard 15m 21 Þ
1m R. In front of tree. Originally graded 23, but printed as 17 by mistake, has now settled at 21! Much more civilised, and popular, with the rebolting. Up. DRBB
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1984
★ Ed's 27 25m? 27/25
Marked. Crimpy and steep. Avoiding the pain by climbing around the hard bit yields a worthwhile 25. DRBB
? 2009
Jack's Wall
Around the corner there is a wall with an undercut arete on the left. The rock should clean up nicely. Jack Taylor, budding local climber put up a few routes here, climbing quite a few grades above his age. Well worthwhile.
★★ Awesome Daddy 13m 17 Þ
Climb at undercut orange rock. Upwards!
Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor 2011
★★ Thanks Mum 13m 17 Þ
2m R AD. More upwardness.
Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor 2011
Casper Area
Further along, again, there is a large hanging roof bumping into a smooth, orange wall with nice rock.
O All the Madmen 25m 26 X
Starts up the short arete meeting the roof, then straight up past rings on left, if you can clip them. Through huge dynos and up wall??? Has repelled some serious contenders. Looks scary. Take Care. DRBB
Rod Young 1998
O Casper 25m 22 X
Marked. Start up corner crack, then through steepness to wall, meander up wall. Great rock but necky, even with gear placed between the rings. Take Care. DRBB
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983
★★★ Shabang 25m 22 Þ
3m right Casper. Excellent, well protected climbing. The name is Crunch's geek-speak for "Shebang" - linux command. Very post-modern. Up gingerly to pockets, then technical, pumpy climbing through bulge to wall above. Up ramp on right to DRBB.
John (Crunch) Smoothy, Glenn Short, Henryk Topolnicki 2011
O Quicksilver 30m 23 X
Marked. Poorly rebolted and the crux holds have broken off. Up wall, meeting arete near top. Looks like death. Take care.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983
The Alcove
Around the next corner there is an undercut grey wall with two routes (one on FHs, one on rings) and an, as yet, unclimbed layback ferny crack running up the right hand side. It looks as chossy as it feels.
★ Scooter Fun 22m 22 Þ
15m R Q. Thin. Start on right hand side, at FHs, traverse left, crossing the ringbolted line of CCatMG. Then up, right of the arete with fingery, strenuous climbing up the wall above. A tad chossy in parts but worthwhile. Lower off.
John Smoothy, Glenn Short, Giles Bradbury 2011
★ Chocolate Crackle and the Mischievous Gnomes 22m 20? Þ
2m left of SF, at the line of rings. Straight up through breaks to top of wall. Sam perservered with this one, despite several setbacks. So, it's worth hauling yourself up to see the fruit of his creative labours. DRBB
Sam Puchala 2011
Odie Odour Area
Onto the wall opposite, grey on one side - orange on the other. A crack, Odie Odour (16), runs up the middle.
O A4 22m 10
6m L(?) CCtMG. The scrubby corner! Take some slings for the bushes? George Owen would be proud.
Mitch Warren 2011
O Trick of the Light 22m 18 Þ
3m R bushy corner, in middle of grey slab. Up tenderly, without disturbing Mitch's feats of engineering and up to the cave with the permanent dosser. Lower-off.
Jacindie Jackson, Mitch Warren 2011
O Ed's Weirdness 26m 18 Þ
3m right TotL. Up blocky slabbiness, over OO to DRBB. Rap or up easy slab (6) to top. DRRB.
Ed Rutherford 2009
(The Ledges)
★ Odie Odour 30m 16
Marked. Little orange corner and crack in middle of wall. FH at belay. Up corner, arete and crack to top. Can rap off the DRBB on EW.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983
★★ Funkytown 16m 20 Þ
Starts 4m R OO at DRBB on ledge above track. Obvious crack with block protroding in middle of orange wall. Haul up weakness to bulge, over to chains. Quite a bit of climbing for a short route. Good fun. Chain loweroffs.
Glenn Short, John Smoothy 2011
★★ Bless its Pointed Little Head 20m 22 Þ
15m R further along ledge of FT at fused corner, with long horizontal break running off left up higher. Straight up fused corner, then rightwards through the steepness. Looks good but also looks harder than 21!
Mitch Warren 2011
★★ Movin' on Up 25m 21 Þ
12m R BiPLH along ledge, at DRBB. Quite a bit of climbing. Up through steepness in middle of wall, trending right towards notch at roof. Step around right onto wall at roof and up wall above, following weakness to DRBB. Lower off or rap.
Glenn Short, John-boy Smoothy 2011
★★ Project - Pam 20m Þ
Please stay off. 8m right of MoU, further along ledge. DRBB. Obvious bolted thin crack.
Pam Mort
★★ Offwidth Joy 25m 15
3m R Pam's Project at the obvious corner crack just before the end of the ledge. Needs natural gear. Up into corner, follow crack to ethics-free zone. (off-width with 2 FHs!) Up trench, step out right then back under roof, step left and up to DBB lower-offs. Pretty good. Eats up gear, take large to small cams.
Glenn Short, John (Crunch) Smoothy 2011
★★★ Alive ‘n’ Kicking 25m 23 Þ
6m right of OJ, at end of ledge. Has been rebolted and no longer requires the rap-in or hanging belay. Up crack to line of rings out right, up middle of undercut orange wall. The top of this route is the lookout at the Historic Wells carpark. DRRB.
Mike Stacey, Lorna McManus 1989
The Rest
The following routes are spread out further towards Zap Crag. They haven't seen a lot of activity. These descriptions are taken from the originals, in the guides by Andrew Penney and Mike Stacey. It's a nice walk, if you are keen.
O Monkey Grip 30m 23
30m R AnK. Up wall and roof crack. Bolt above overhang then roof crack to wall, up.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1985
O Oliphant Wall 15m 24
Black wall just past MG. Steep wall climbing. Watch out for the old carrots.
Ant Prehn, Rod Young 1985
O Carabine 20m 16
"About 600m" right of OO"!!! Marked. Flake / corner / overhang! Follow crack. Take care.
Ant Prehn, Rod Young 1983
O Driver's Seat 20m 18
"101m (exactly, eh, Rod?) R Carabine. Crack in wall, starts as an overhung peapod about 10m off ground." Up peapod crack to exit (crux) to easier crack above. Rap off.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983
O Pandora 40m 15
Way off in the wilderness, below the electricity towers (Pylon Pt) Follow your nose to the top? Take care.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1985
Acknowledgement
Glenn Short, John Smoothy and Mitch Warren.
Access
There are 2 approaches:
1. Walk for 5 mins past The Way of All Flesh (28) at Barden's crag, way past Mind Over Matter (marked) until you reach the grey and black slab with rings on it next to a slightly overhanging wall with routes on the right of the obvious easy diagonal crack (Treebeard Wall).
2. Park at Barden's Lookout carpark. Take the obvious foottrack left looking out from the carpark area, back towards Mt. Vic. Walk for a few minutes to some bends in the track and an obvious metre wide track running off to the right, towards the cliff. Follow it to the top of a short gully with a fixed rope, ladder, rungs and more fixed rope. Down to bottom and turn left. Either way, you will now be at the base of the first easy black slabs of the Historic Wells area. The roped gully is shorter if only visiting this area, but it is not far from Barden's and Damien's Staircase is a cruisy way down.
Tree Beard Area
The following climbs start just past Rod Young's original descent gully, which has been re-equipped with ropes and paraphenalia. (head right, facing the cliff) If coming from Barden's just follow the track to the black slab with the large chains on top, which is way past the rather obvious Mind over Matter.
O The Cat that Fought Back 15m 14 Þ
Left-most route on wall with chossy overhang above. Very weird clip in centre of route. Chain.
Mitch Warren 2011
★ Dirty Beasts 17m 15
First route on the black rock. Chain.
Sam Puchala 2011
★ Boatbuilding for Clancy 10m 17 Þ
Just left of the diagonal easy crack. Ridiculously hard move in centre. Mitch reckons it's 15. DRBB
Roslin Forrest 2011
★★ Back to Back 20m 13
The juggy diagonal crack separating the two short walls. Nice climbing, with great gear. Step left at top around bulge. Lower-offs shared with BfC.
Rod Young, Sue Morton 1985
★ Statistical Scare Tactics 16m 20 Þ
1m right BtB. Nice rock but difficult to stay out of the crack. Take care through the bulge to the anchors. DRBB
Steve Hawkshaw 2004
O Evil Deeds with Good Intentions 13m 24 Þ
2m right. Thin and sharp.
Jacindie Jackson, Mitch Warren 2011
O Ed's 24 12m 24? Þ
Marked by large 24.
Ed Rutherford 2009
★ Starseed 12m 20? Þ
Sam Puchala
★★ Tree Beard 15m 21 Þ
1m R. In front of tree. Originally graded 23, but printed as 17 by mistake, has now settled at 21! Much more civilised, and popular, with the rebolting. Up. DRBB
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1984
★ Ed's 27 25m? 27/25
Marked. Crimpy and steep. Avoiding the pain by climbing around the hard bit yields a worthwhile 25. DRBB
? 2009
Jack's Wall
Around the corner there is a wall with an undercut arete on the left. The rock should clean up nicely. Jack Taylor, budding local climber put up a few routes here, climbing quite a few grades above his age. Well worthwhile.
★★ Awesome Daddy 13m 17 Þ
Climb at undercut orange rock. Upwards!
Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor 2011
★★ Thanks Mum 13m 17 Þ
2m R AD. More upwardness.
Jack Taylor, Damien Taylor 2011
Casper Area
Further along, again, there is a large hanging roof bumping into a smooth, orange wall with nice rock.
O All the Madmen 25m 26 X
Starts up the short arete meeting the roof, then straight up past rings on left, if you can clip them. Through huge dynos and up wall??? Has repelled some serious contenders. Looks scary. Take Care. DRBB
Rod Young 1998
O Casper 25m 22 X
Marked. Start up corner crack, then through steepness to wall, meander up wall. Great rock but necky, even with gear placed between the rings. Take Care. DRBB
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983
★★★ Shabang 25m 22 Þ
3m right Casper. Excellent, well protected climbing. The name is Crunch's geek-speak for "Shebang" - linux command. Very post-modern. Up gingerly to pockets, then technical, pumpy climbing through bulge to wall above. Up ramp on right to DRBB.
John (Crunch) Smoothy, Glenn Short, Henryk Topolnicki 2011
O Quicksilver 30m 23 X
Marked. Poorly rebolted and the crux holds have broken off. Up wall, meeting arete near top. Looks like death. Take care.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983
The Alcove
Around the next corner there is an undercut grey wall with two routes (one on FHs, one on rings) and an, as yet, unclimbed layback ferny crack running up the right hand side. It looks as chossy as it feels.
★ Scooter Fun 22m 22 Þ
15m R Q. Thin. Start on right hand side, at FHs, traverse left, crossing the ringbolted line of CCatMG. Then up, right of the arete with fingery, strenuous climbing up the wall above. A tad chossy in parts but worthwhile. Lower off.
John Smoothy, Glenn Short, Giles Bradbury 2011
★ Chocolate Crackle and the Mischievous Gnomes 22m 20? Þ
2m left of SF, at the line of rings. Straight up through breaks to top of wall. Sam perservered with this one, despite several setbacks. So, it's worth hauling yourself up to see the fruit of his creative labours. DRBB
Sam Puchala 2011
Odie Odour Area
Onto the wall opposite, grey on one side - orange on the other. A crack, Odie Odour (16), runs up the middle.
O A4 22m 10
6m L(?) CCtMG. The scrubby corner! Take some slings for the bushes? George Owen would be proud.
Mitch Warren 2011
O Trick of the Light 22m 18 Þ
3m R bushy corner, in middle of grey slab. Up tenderly, without disturbing Mitch's feats of engineering and up to the cave with the permanent dosser. Lower-off.
Jacindie Jackson, Mitch Warren 2011
O Ed's Weirdness 26m 18 Þ
3m right TotL. Up blocky slabbiness, over OO to DRBB. Rap or up easy slab (6) to top. DRRB.
Ed Rutherford 2009
(The Ledges)
★ Odie Odour 30m 16
Marked. Little orange corner and crack in middle of wall. FH at belay. Up corner, arete and crack to top. Can rap off the DRBB on EW.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983
★★ Funkytown 16m 20 Þ
Starts 4m R OO at DRBB on ledge above track. Obvious crack with block protroding in middle of orange wall. Haul up weakness to bulge, over to chains. Quite a bit of climbing for a short route. Good fun. Chain loweroffs.
Glenn Short, John Smoothy 2011
★★ Bless its Pointed Little Head 20m 22 Þ
15m R further along ledge of FT at fused corner, with long horizontal break running off left up higher. Straight up fused corner, then rightwards through the steepness. Looks good but also looks harder than 21!
Mitch Warren 2011
★★ Movin' on Up 25m 21 Þ
12m R BiPLH along ledge, at DRBB. Quite a bit of climbing. Up through steepness in middle of wall, trending right towards notch at roof. Step around right onto wall at roof and up wall above, following weakness to DRBB. Lower off or rap.
Glenn Short, John-boy Smoothy 2011
★★ Project - Pam 20m Þ
Please stay off. 8m right of MoU, further along ledge. DRBB. Obvious bolted thin crack.
Pam Mort
★★ Offwidth Joy 25m 15
3m R Pam's Project at the obvious corner crack just before the end of the ledge. Needs natural gear. Up into corner, follow crack to ethics-free zone. (off-width with 2 FHs!) Up trench, step out right then back under roof, step left and up to DBB lower-offs. Pretty good. Eats up gear, take large to small cams.
Glenn Short, John (Crunch) Smoothy 2011
★★★ Alive ‘n’ Kicking 25m 23 Þ
6m right of OJ, at end of ledge. Has been rebolted and no longer requires the rap-in or hanging belay. Up crack to line of rings out right, up middle of undercut orange wall. The top of this route is the lookout at the Historic Wells carpark. DRRB.
Mike Stacey, Lorna McManus 1989
The Rest
The following routes are spread out further towards Zap Crag. They haven't seen a lot of activity. These descriptions are taken from the originals, in the guides by Andrew Penney and Mike Stacey. It's a nice walk, if you are keen.
O Monkey Grip 30m 23
30m R AnK. Up wall and roof crack. Bolt above overhang then roof crack to wall, up.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1985
O Oliphant Wall 15m 24
Black wall just past MG. Steep wall climbing. Watch out for the old carrots.
Ant Prehn, Rod Young 1985
O Carabine 20m 16
"About 600m" right of OO"!!! Marked. Flake / corner / overhang! Follow crack. Take care.
Ant Prehn, Rod Young 1983
O Driver's Seat 20m 18
"101m (exactly, eh, Rod?) R Carabine. Crack in wall, starts as an overhung peapod about 10m off ground." Up peapod crack to exit (crux) to easier crack above. Rap off.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1983
O Pandora 40m 15
Way off in the wilderness, below the electricity towers (Pylon Pt) Follow your nose to the top? Take care.
Rod Young, Ant Prehn 1985
11 February 2012
Binary Cave
19 Constipation Chimney Variant Start - verified 19m 12 Rap-anchor
One of the easiest dry pitches in the Blueys!! A much nicer way to start CC, and a worthwhile single pitch in it's own right if you rap off the chain at first ledge. Bring hand to fist cams and some wires. Marked CCVS. Left facing orange corner with great gear. Belay on shale ledge at rap chain.
20 Birthday Bolts 20m 19 9 bolts Lower-off
Birthday gifts from Vanessa and Ryan :-) As per 33Y for 3 bolts and then veer right and up the engaging orange slab.
FA: Jason Lammers - 2012-01-28
21 Thirty Three Years - verified 19m 21 7bolts Lower-off
Popular and technical climbing. Start at CCVS corner then trend left up the orange wall past a few overlaps.
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2010-00-00
22 Flash Flood - verified 18m 20 8 bolts Lower-off
Line of rings up dark orange wall 3m left of Thirty Three Years. Stick clip first bolt and campus the undercut start. Nice finish up steep prow.
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2011-01-16
23 Thai Virus - verified 25m 22 10 bolts Lower-off
Flash Flood for two bolts then left and up orange wall. One tough move halfway up.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2012-01-22
24 La Niña 25m 22 10 bolts Lower-off
Start up FF, and then move left to the furthest line of RB's, then climb the super headwall.
FA: Jason Lammers - 2012-02-05
25 Torrential - verified 25m 20 Rap-anchor
Unlikely well protected trad climbing. Weave up blocky steep stuff to under big roof. Swing right across break and up seam crack to shale ledge. Rap off anchors above TTY.
Starts 15m left of Thirty Three Years at blocky weakness through big roofs.
FFA: Rich Sonnerdale & Neil Monteith - 2010-00-00
26 Middle Finger - verified 25m 21 Rap-anchor
Climb Torrential for 14m to under big roof. Place #5 cam in slot then traverse left under roof and up technical small corner on great rock. Double bolt belay.
FFA: Neil Monteith & Rich Sonnerdale - 2010-00-00
27 Thumbs Up 92m 24 M4 Walk-off
First pitch is an exciting old school crackline through some major roofs. Full rack including micro cams and several long slings.
Start at crackline through steep wall about 30m left of Thirty Three Years.
FA: John Ewbank 1967 - 1967-00-00 FFA: Neil Monteith & Rich Sonnerdale (P1 only) - 2010-00-00
P1 (25m, 24) The double roof pitch. First roof is bouldery, the second is reachy and pumpy. Finish up fantastic easy corner.
P2 (27m, - M4) Very thin seam crack splitting roof above. Probably requires pitons. Might go free?
P3 (40m, 15) Easy trench crack to top.
○ Ben Jenga Project - verified 20m - Lower-off
Starts just left of TU. Flake to big roof heuco, over this and up nice headwall. Maybe 25ish?
28 Binary Project (Neil) - verified 20m - Lower-off
Lone ring bolted route in between the old school aid lines. Steep start trendIng right then straight up the gorgeous orange wall. Should be 25ish.
29 Survival Day - verified 20m 24 9 bolts Lower-off
Start just right of Thumbs Down on sandy shelf. Right trending wall to big horizontal break. Swing across this then lean back and reach the big jug over the lip. Up featured wall above. Might be grade 23.
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2012-01-28
30 Thumbs Down 87m 13 M4 Walk-off
Another steep aid route through a big ceiling. This one looks harder to free than Thumbs Down. Starts 17m left of Thumbs Up.
FA: John Ewbank FFA: 1967-00-00
P1 (34m, 13 M4) Crack and wall to small ledge. Up to roof with old fixed museum pieces and aid across to headwall. Free up to ledge.
P2 (10m, -) Corner to ledge
P3 (13m, 13 M4) Aid crux. Corner, roof then free to ledge.
P4 (30m, -) Black wall.
31 Please Dry - verified 12m 17 5 bolts Lower-off
Short slabby orange wall 5m left of TD. Wall to fun flake, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top.
FFA: Neil Monteith, Dave Bateman & Ryan Whelan - 2012-00-00
○ PROJECT - Bundy - Road Works 12m - 6 bolts Lower-off
The cute little slab just right of free standing pillar.
FA: Project - Bundy
32 Thunderstruck - verified 42m 24 16 bolts Lower-off
2 pitches, very easy first pitch, and a steep pitch up the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres right of Hells Bells at black wall with FHs.
FFA: Chris Coghill (lead both), Will Monks - 2011-00-00
P1 (20m, 17, 6 bolts) Easy, peasy. You can lower off the big staple at the top of the wall, or much better, climb up to the ledge and do the second pitch. A rap anchor is 5m to the L, looking in, at the top of P2 of Hells Bells.
P2 (22m, 24, 10 bolts) Steep with a punchy low crux, then nice moves to the top.
33 Hells Bells 61m 16 Walk-off
Start at blocky black corner 25m left of TD. There is a rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2, so you can do it as a single pitch and rap. This avoids the vegetated upper pitches.
FFA: J. Davis - 1964-00-00
P1 (10m, 14) Up wall right of corner aiming for a small ledge below orange roof. Single old rusty carrot. Don't stop here - link this with pitch 2.
P2 (8m, 15) Traverse left to arete plugging good gear in the crack under the roof. Belay at rap chain (stainless).
P3 (13m, -) Diagonally left to crack and old bolt belay. Mucho vegeteriano.
P4 (10m, 16) Crack to bolt belay.
P5 (20m, -) Diagonally left for 8m then diagonally right to ledge and tree. Scramble off to the right.
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